Monoboy

Cheers, I will take a look.

Hi all, I know this is a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, but I was just taking the old C out for a spin before a guy comes round to look at buying it tomorrow, and wouldn't you know, it's just started misfiring. It's dark now so I haven't yet investigated very far. I know the obvious culprits - plugs, HT leads, MAF, etc., but I was wondering if anyone could help me narrow it down. In particular the fact that it runs fine above 2000rpm, but loses a cylinder (or maybe 2) at any throttle openings below that engine speed. Does this suggest any particular faults over the others? Thanks in advance. -Dave PS It's sad to say, but I just want rid of it now, it's niggles like this that have made me want to sell her.

I've done a little aerodynamics in my time, so here goes... yes, the spoiler is just that, it spoils the otherwise smooth air that would create lift. Simplified: air going over the top of a smoothly rounded car has more distance to travel than that travelling underneath, hence it goes faster to keep up, hence it becomes less dence and sucks the body underneath it (be it aeroplane wing or Audi TT) upwards into its place. The spoiler destroys this smooth flow of air (you can see the vortices it's producing in the above pic on the right), reducing lift, at the expense of increased drag. It does not create downforce, the car will not be made to weigh more than its static mass, it just makes it less light. Undoubtably the Corrado spoiler will have an effect, but by how much is debatable. The fact that on different models it comes up at very different speeds is a clue; surely the aerodynamics are the same for all cars, and hence there'd be an optimum speed that the spoiler should raise for all. These differences suggest it's mainly cosmetic. Personally I find it's quite useful that it comes down, for reversing if nothing else... As for the TT debate, I understand that they were all recalled for aerodynamic AND suspension tweaks, both designed to better tie down the rear end. The TT is a failrly convincing aerofoil section in shape (far more so than a Corrado), so it will generate lift. However, the consus from people who know driving (such as Evo magazine) was that the original, uncorrected TT felt safe anyway and handled better than the duller-handling update. Just how many cars are completely safe to be 'thrown' into corners at three-figure speeds anyway? Is a Corrado?

Do you guys use proper high temperature grease, or just any old stuff?

Ah, that'll be the problem then - over-tightening the nut... Thanks for all the advice and comments. I used GSF bearings and plenty of grease, but plenty of torque as well, so I reckon the thing overheated and went a bit Chernobyl on me. And yes, MikeVR6, it's my own fault for getting help from that dodgy Saab-driving character. I took one look at his Dell-boy jacket and knew I shouldn't trust him! Since I did both wheels, I shall be checking the torque of the other side as well! I was planning on changing the whole lot on the failed side at least, partly because bits are friction welded to the stub-shaft, and also because we do a lot of engineering theory (though obviously not enough!) where I work and I've seen plenty of failed bearings and the effect they have when they're on the way out. Well, I've learned the hard way! If only I'd had a Haynes manual...

Hmmm. My right-rear wheel (i eventually worked out) started making some very odd squeeking sounds recently. I immediately stopped, jacked up the car, pulled the wheels off and generally checked everything was ship-shape, which it was. However, over the next 80 or so miles on the way home this got steadily worse (and I drove steadily slower and got out and checked things more often), until, about 2 miles from home, it was sounding excruciating and I started to get interesting rear-wheel steering effects. Requiring opposite lock to maintain a straight line was not ammusing, but by this stage I was resigned that whatever was broken (probably a bearing) is now properly broken, so I grit my teeth and limped on. I made it back in one (wonky) piece). Removing the wheel I found that, to my horror, only the brake caliper was stopping the disc (and hence the wheel) from sliding off the stub axle. What was more amusing was the state of the bearings, which I found in pieces fused together in various places around the disc hub, along with a quanitity of ejected grease. Obviously I have had a catastrophic bearing failure, and it has gradually destroyed itself over the journey. I now havebits of bearing race friction welded to the stub axle, and a brake discs that has been ground away partially by the metal parts of the caliper (god bless it!). I recently changed all the discs, pads, and - crucially - rear wheel bearings! I have had 500 problem-free miles (until now!), but I realise the problem is due to something I have done. The thing is, what? I will have to change the stub axle, bearings, disc (it could be salvageable but I think it will be easier to get a new one) and consequently pads. Which is a bugger. Any ideas? Could it have anything to do with the torque value of the centre nut? What torque value should I use (I just guessed)? Enjoy the pics. -Dave

£19 seems amazingly cheap, not that I'm complaining! Cheers all.

My left indicator light is cracked and is full of brown muck which doesn't look brilliant. Additionally, that indicator has now stopped working intermitantly so I've finally been spurred into action. But: How do I get the indicator out? Also: How much does a new unit cost, roughly? Curse Haynes and their laziness! Cheers, -Dave

My stock VR6's Speedlines are looking a bit shabby, I'm not happy with the standard rubber's performance, and I've noticed some very smart looking Corrados about rolling on 16"s wheels of various varieties. So methinks it's time to replace the ol castors with some new ones. To my eyes 15"s are too small, 17"s too 'max power', but 16"s are just right. However, I've never really 'modded' a car and haven't a clue what to look for in wheels. I don't want to touch the suspension just yet, but in the future I may opt to alter the handling with coilovers (and consequently lower by 30 or 40mm or so - but certainly not 'slamming' it). I'm also keen not to upset the effective gearing (and hence speedo calibration and accelerative perfromance) by changing the overall tyre diameter drastically. This might be a bit 'how long is a piece of string', but what figures am I looking for in a wheel and tyre? What fits and what doesn't? Is it normal to go for a lower profile tyre when increasing the diameter of the wheel? Also, what rubber do people recommend? I'm not particularly happy with the Goodyears on mine, they break traction more easily than other, more powerful cars I've experienced that are similarly front-wheel driven and on 205mm-wide rubber. I've heard good things about Michelin. Finally, wheels. I'd like to stick to something in the same vein as the standard speedlines, i.e. 5-point stars or similar. Borbet Cs look cool, any other recommendations? Thanks, -Dave

No, I've connected it up right, there's little 'braun - ' and '+' markings on the resister pack that with my limited knowledge of Saxon points me to the brown and red wires as appropriate. Oh well, I'll drown it in WD40 and throw it down the stairs a few times, and if it still doesn't work I'll get a new mk2 job. Where's a good place for ordering these things? Euro Car Parts?

I'm having the first taste of Corrado 'character': This week, the blower thermal resistor went. Today the knob for seat back angle adjustment fell off, and then the plastic cover that sits over the door locking mechanism made a break for freedom as well! Why are bits falling off my car!? Anyway, the seat knob is screwed back on, the plastic lock mechanism cover is glued and I've changed the thermal resister, however...:- Last week the cabin blower ran fine. This week it ran fine but only on speed 4. Now, fuse changed, it works on all settings but makes a new, horrid, noise. I know I could just buy a new fan unit, but considering it worked fine last week and has only become noisy since I fiddled with it, I'm sure I can repair it and save a few bob. I've probably just dislodged a bit of grit into the bearings or something. But I can't seem to get into the fan housing to strip and clean the motor. Has anyone stripped one of these, if so could you tell me how? I'm always warey of appying brute force to these things without knowing what I should be pulling apart from where. Thanks, -Dave

Cheers! Jeez this forum is handy. Who needs a Haynes manual when you have this kind of support.

Does anyone know how to get the plastic handbrake handle thingy off? I'm talking about the plastic grip surrounded in leather. I need to get it off (I presume) to fit a new bit of plastic trim that covers the metal lever parts further down. But for the life of me I can't work out how I get the handle off! Any clues? -Dave

Finally fitted the loom this afternoon, with no probs. I disconnected the dim-dip resister as instructed, even though it seemed to have no effect. I have to say I'm impressed with the item and results. Haven't driven at night yet but even just shining the lights into the garage they are noticeably brighter, a much whiter light. Am about to commence a proper test drive this evening. Cheers Gavin!