Oldtax

So... I've just spoken to my insurers who said that due to the age of the car it will be considered an uneconomical repair and they will look to salvage etc. Evemn cosmetic damage on an older car would likely incur this. However, she stated that the value of corrados are increasing (dont tell anyone!) but not enough to make a difference to me! she did say they would send someone out to do an estimate of repair free of charge if wanted. Fascists!

Thank you all very much - this has been really helpful. The guy who hit me has informed his insurance (insure the box) about the incident and said that he was at fault. They have left me an answerphone message saying, "give us a call to see how we can help with the cost of repairs and a courtesy car" - but i'm a little suspicious and naive about these things. Then my insurers - admiral - have left a message asking me to call them to discuss ... i guess insure the box contacted them. So, from reading all of your responses the general consensus seems to be contact his insurance and dont contact mine? It seems to late to do a deal with the guy who hit me because he appears to wont to go down the insurance route ... plus i think he's quite young so paying for it himself might be a problem. Also, will his insurance company want to take it away and estimate repair costs ... ultimately leaving me with the buy back issues etc? I want to keep my car! Or will admiral now say they need to do that. Got a lift to work today in a fiat cinquecento ... imagine my shame!

This is really helpful thanks. Just spoke to the bloke - who admitted fault. My hesitation in going through the insurance route is that this might cost me more in the long run if written off: Cat D? (i dont really understand all that) but it's currently not driveable - DVLA costs? potentially re MOTing, towing back from wherever they take it repairs loss of money paid for years insurance. i only took the policy out January but it would appear admiral cancel the policy because car doesnt exist on paper and therefore nothing to insure etc and do not give a refund £250 excess i really wish this hadn't bloody happened!

ah, i see ;) Sorry. i have no idea but would you think that's £1500 worth of damage? not spoken to the 'hitter' yet. he's calling at 6. thanks again.

Dox, i have no idea to be honest. all i know is that i cant move the wheels! Goldie, my concern is that he might agree to it, i get the work done, and he doesn't pay up or disputes the work done. bearing in mind he still thinks its a clipped wing mirror! i think i'm right in thinking that i would have to get the car back off the insurance company at a cost after they have deemed it a write off. this is all rather painful!

here's a pic https://www.dropbox.com/s/lw91l4ribk0b2lp/2014-02-09%2014.32.37.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/zz9t2z29u9rbqg0/2014-02-09%2014.31.28.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/d4xyal3pti7awtl/2014-02-09%2014.31.14.jpg the car is only valued at £1500. thanks for looking.

Came home today to find a note saying sorry for clipping my wing mirror and a number. However the damage is much worse: car up on kerb, front wheels turned, and driver side wheel pushed forward so its touching the front of the arch. i cant turn the wheel at all. i suspect they will write the car off ... but im not sure how it works from there. can i keep the car and the cash? its been hard enough maintaining! any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, jon

Hi Matt, Got a blackberry myself - 16 valver. Whereabouts ru? At the very least we should do a south coast meet ... and discuss our niggles! Jon

I didn't check - dam. Hunted high and low and can't find original thread. Sorry

Tell me about it! Hence the potential blue peter job!

I can't find the post on the Canadian corrado forum now, but someone suggested that scrapers from a beetle will fit a corrado with a little trimming. Has anyone tried this or does anyone know any alternatives? Mine are next to useless now!

Thanks very much. Looking at the 2 hoses that go into the air intake pre throttle body, each end feels more braid than hose ... i.e. it's very flexible ... so I'm assuming this is creating a leak. I sprayed carb cleaner liberally around this area and there was a definite change in engine tone ... From dying horse to asthmatic cow. Or should it be this way? I don't want the situation to get any worse! I read a cure-all fix involving dry wood, petrol and a naked flame ... Trying to rule everything out before taking this approach

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After having my HT leads changed ... my running problems returned a week later (2.0l 16v) I want to change my vac hoses as per this diagram http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?52325-1-8-16v-vacuum-pipes-diagram i figure they could do with a change after 20 years anyway. Do i buy these direct from vw and how much am i looking at roughly? also what lengths etc? any info greatly appreciated

Lol! I was hoping to avoid that tbh. I've got breakdown with the RAC - but i think it consists of towing you home or to the nearest garage. i certainly dont want to go to the nearest one! does anyone have any other thoughts. im not sure having the coolant temp sensor off would help it start - surely they can start without these? worth a punt tho i guess. the only other thing i can think is that the hall sender (?) in the dizzy has gone ... doesnt this tell the fuel to squirt? if its not fuel and spark then surely its air? i have no idea!

just got back from car with rorgasm. it doesnt appear to be any wires that are loose. have checked all fuses under dash and they are all working. swapped every relay under dash (except 30? cos we didnt have one to swap) which is a real pain in the @rse with my irritating immobiliser. fuel appears to be getting through ok ... although nothing coming out of injectors when we tried to start up - but this was also the case with a fully working C too. fuel pump whirs and fuel filter not long ago changed. i cant find where the ignition amplifier goes so we couldnt swap that over to try. and battery fully charged. managed to get plugs out and they were sparking fine. washed steering wheel thoroughly with tears and all shiney now ... so it rules out that problem! it always sounds so close to starting. anything else anyone can think of before i have to put my hands in my pockets? thanks for all the help so far.

thanks, will do. i dont remember seeing the earth on the gearbox - whereabouts is it? cheers.

which connections would you suggest? also how would i go about checking metering head flap ... what signs would i be looking for? it wasnt fantastic before it went tbh. lumpy, hunting on start, revs dropping out when at temp. checked battery with Rorgasm's fully charged one, also checked using his rotor arm in dizzy. cap clean as a whistle. we weren't able to see if HT's were sparking but suspect this isnt the problem. the last work i did was change the slave cylinder ... is there anything electrical i could have pulled out/dislodged that would cause this? not that i can see anything. your help is much appreciated. cheers

Hi, just took dizzy cap off and no oil in there. although the plate behind the rotor arm came loose when i took it off - tho went straight back in no problem. I had read elsewhere that it might be worth changing blue temp sensor (although not blue on a valver i dont think) - but also read this only provides info once warmed up so shouldnt be the problem? after turning the key for a while and then stopping, the car appears to still try and start on its own and the engine seems to give a little kick! also the LCD display sometimes shows up and then will disappear occasionally. today after trying for a while i heard clicking from the rear of the car - which i presume is the fuel pump (?) But dont these gradually go - as opposed to suddenly stopping? any thoughts on how i can identify if this is the problem easily? there appears to be no visible leaks that end. i wonder if the fact that i flooded the engine bay with my tears might have also contributed! thx for the help so far.

great, thanks. I'll start with this. is it just a case of pulling it off by hand and wiping out with a rag?

Sorry, yes 2.0 16v late. can you tell me where the metering head is? thanks for your help. Jon

Hi All, i recently changed my slave cylinder and now my car wont start! prior to the change it seemed to resolve the following problems: - high revs when clutch was down between changes - idle problems ranging from too high to dropping and stalling ... most helpfully at busy junctions! - very poor mpg ... usually around 25mpg on dual carriageway runs to work. now it wont start. its not the starter motor as this appear to be working fine. i'm thinking the mixture is too rich as i can smell fuel strongly in the cabin after prolonged trying. but im a complete newbie. also, from looking at the other threads, im not sure but the exhaust appears a little more black than when i bought it. but i might be being paranoid! from what i've read, would the blue temp sensor (no idea where this is or wot it does yet!) and maf sensor be a good place to start ... along with a clean of the air intake and filter change? shortly after buying it i took it to JMR and he pointed out that oil was in the dizzy cap and the spark plugs, and some sensors were leaking oil. is this enough to kill the little beast? i could do with getting her running so i can take her to get further repairs done with JMR. any thoughts will be greatly received. Cheers, Jon.

Thanks. Managed to get it on. However everytime I add fluid to reservoir it just drains sraight away. Can't seem to be able to bleed thru. Used about 400ml now and pedal still floor.maybe not enough? I'm ignoring the fact that car won't start!

Yes - i first tried it without hose on but couldnt easily attached hose after so took it back off again. then i tried with the hose on and it wouldnt retract. so i took the hose back off and it still wont retract. then i lost the will to live! 9a engine - odb1 i presume. cheers

hugely embarrassing considering it might be the easiest job on any car ... and i've done it on other cars. I'm replacing the clutch slave cylinder. taken old one off fine. connected hose but then cant seem to make rod retract enough so i can bolt it back on. should only take 20 mins but its playing silly buggers! any idea wot im doing wrong? :roll: