Banks88

Hi everyone Developed a possible new issue. When I turn the key to position 1 for the electrics the radiator fan starts running but the car hasnt ran for a few days so is cold! When I turn the ignition over again to crank the engine it stops? Have I got some sort of radiator fan temp switch issue or am I just dwelling on nothing? Thanks

Thanks Dox for your help! We checked it over last night and found that the route course was the rotar arm! Where it slides on the dizzy spindle it had rounded so was slipping causing the violent backfire! All that for £3 part! The timing was also slightly forward so that is getting sorted this week too! thanks again

We've checked for a spark at he plugs and all working ok. Engine did turn over for a little but then dies D but while it was running it was ok. Do you think this could be a metering head issue but I don't understand why it would just do it after its been running ok. The fuel/air has been played with a little is it worth getting it set up?

Hi everyone As we speak am sat in an AA van 220 quid down on my way home from Bug Jam and I didn't even manage to get there! ! Absolutely Guttered!! Anyone any ideas...... I was driving fine on the motorway for about an hour when suddenly the car became very juddery when I held the acelerator in possition crusing at about 70. When I accelerated up it wasnt as bad only when I held my speed! Before I had chance to turn off motorway a huge bang and 2 foot of flames shot out the back and the engine cut out! Tried starting it back up after 10 mins or so and the engine tried turning over but kept back firing massively! It eventually started for 2 mins then cut out! No issues with ht leads and dizzy is dry. AA Bloke thinks its a metering head issue and made a few tweaks with the fuel/air flow allen key but still same issue. Any body got any ideas as it was running fine before!

Hiya guy's. I've got a 1994 2.0 16v in mint condition however......Having real cold start issues at the moment and its frustrating the hell out of me!!! bassically when the engine is cold it doesnt start at first and sounds like theres no compression (after compression testing it, found cylinders 1&2 loosing compression but then regaining it again!) However it does start to pick up and begins to fire. Eventually it runs on its own but very rough 2-3 cylinders max. However in the time it takes me to get it running on its own the oil pressure builds up that much it blows the seal around the oil filter and 4ltrs of brand new oil run down my street!! Weve been fault finding. I.e new ht leads, new rotor arm.and dizzy,new plugs, about 20ltrs of oil and 3 oil filters,coolant has been flushed and cleaned. Fuel system has been pressure tested and all ok and its co2 has also been set up correctly. Weird thing is when the engine warms up it runs on all 4 cylinders and it runs sweet as a nut with no problems at all!!! it just wont start when the engine is cold. could this be down to a blocked oil breather which is generating too much oil pressure and having effect on compression? and could someone please tell me how I could find it? Really appreciate feedback as am getting frustrated with it now! Lol o yeah forgot its also had a new coolent temp switch and the 5th injector/cold start valve is also working fine too!!! Cheers

Thanks for that, dumb question but how do I find the idle screw on the throttle body? cheers

Hi Guys. Been a while since ive been on here! Basically ive recently took off the inlet manifold and rocker to be powder coated (Looks awsome)Ive put it all back together and made sure every pipe/sensor/clip was back on. throttle body and air intake plate has been carb cleaneed and new paper gasket back on the throttle body. Its started up first time then stalled, then started it again and ran fine! drove around for a few days with no issues. came to start it Friday night and wouldnt start. it fired for about 2 seconds then died, then tried starting it again and all it did was turn over but it felt like to wanted to fire!! changed over the HT leads yesterday still same problem, but we eventaully got it going on a really poor idle then as the engine got warmer it was fine! took it for a spin and ran really well! took each HT lead out one by one as it was running and no problems with misfiring. turned the engine off whilst up to temperture and turned it back on.... no problems at all started fine first time. came to it this morning... fired up for a about a second then died, tried starting again and just turned over. any ideas??? do you think it mabe a coolant temp switch or the warm up sensor on the 5th injector? only seems to do this when its cold and idles and fires up fine when warm. Much appricated!

Ay up! yeah its been a nightmare but now its running like a dream!!... for the time being anyway! I know Retford well I used to play for Retford United a few years ago when they were in the Unibond League! Ive heard about the meet - I think its at Meadowhall retail park but I thought it was a couple of weeks ago???? What Rado you running then?

Hi The picture hasnt come uo and wont let me see it, but buy the sounds of it I think we are talking about the correct one! the single brown wire is perfectly long enough to sit where you have said and it the only spare senosr wire around that area!! Thanks again for your help - does the sensor then screw into the head and the bracket sits under the cam cover bolt?? Cheers

Hi Thanks for that!! Yeah I think youve got the one... Its a copper sensor with a thread and is sat into a yellow bolt which is housed in a bracket!! if that makes sense. Does it connect to a single brown wire with a connector that runs down the front offside wing (Near the metering head) then across to this sensor - as that brown wire is not connected to anything at the moment - so must be the one am guessing? Thanks again!!!

Hi everyone I know it's been ages since I last came on here but we've been busy.... The 16v is finally running! It was nothing to do with the metering head and the valves didnt bend again!, after we had rebuilt the engine a proper vw technician friend of mine noticed that the wood rough key had snapped on the cam pulley changed that along with a new cat and no sorted and loving it! Just one thing - we have a sensor left which were having problems locating which is a thermo after run fan switch. Does anyone have any idea where tis goes on 2.0 16v 9a? Cheers guys

Thanks a lot il let you know how it goes! Cheers :thumbleft:

Hi Jamiehamy Thanks for the advice!! yeah weve had big issues with the metering head, we couldnt work out why it wasnt pushing any fuel through but I think youve just answererd the question! The MK2 16V is very similar bit not the same as i teied using one from a scappy. obviously the BOSH serials are different but works in a similar way. Il have a go at that aswell when the manifold and rocker cover is back on, il let you know how it goes Cheers! :thumbleft: ---------- Post added at 12:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:36 PM ---------- Yes we checked CYl 1 was TDC but not sure if dizzy was set at the same time??? before we put everything back on (at the moment its in bits again) i will set the distributor on TDC and compression test it as well! if the compression test works out ok Il try what jamiehamy has said it give it a whirl! Thanks for the advice guys!! ---------- Post added at 12:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:40 PM ---------- Yes we checked CYl 1 was TDC but not sure if dizzy was set at the same time??? before we put everything back on (at the moment its in bits again) i will set the distributor on TDC and compression test it as well! if the compression test works out ok Il try what jamiehamy has said it give it a whirl! Thanks for the advice guys!!

Ok thanks alot for that, Il give that a go when I get a gauge and let you know how it goes, just for reference what kind of readings am I looking for (good and bad) If I think the ignition timing is what you mean, we have set the distributor and arm to the correct postion and along with the camshaft pulley and crank pulley. what else woiuld I need to do to set the Ignition Timing? Thanks again

Thanks and for the quick reply! The cams were about 5/6 teeth (100 degree ish) I know is quite a lot! We havnt changed the chain, would this make much difference?? How things have gone its probably the case they have bent again but il stay positive! il get hold of a compression kit and give will give it a go! This may sound daft but would a compression test determine whether or not we have bent the valves again? Regarding the fuel, there wasn't much in there, most of it was drained before the fuel filter when we took it off, but some may of get into the system. Before we tried firing it up first time we put around £15 worth of fuel.

Hi all! I'm brand new to all this but I'm sure I will get the nack of things! I'm mad on my vw's and I've recently bought my first one from a family member, it's 1994 2.0 16v. I bought it as a project as it has been sat on her drive for 5 years with a broken cam belt! Me and my mate (ex vw technition) We have recently rebuilt it having found it bent all 8 inlet valves. We have changed every serviceable part ie dizzy, rotor, plugs, battery, fuel filter etc we have come to turn it over for the first time and its not firing. We have checked for a spark-ok battery is brand new, but found fuel distributor wasn't feeding fuel to the injectors. Fuel pressure from the tank to the metering head is fine. We decided to change the metering head to no effect! Next we decided to wip the valve cover to check timing of the cams, to find stupidly we hadn't set the timing on the cams correctly. Everything now timed and everything back on to find its still not firing! Any ideas?