slimtim

Car was picked up by yanmack yesterday. Top bloke. Hope he can spare a bit more time and effort on her than I can.

PM sent

I have owned my L reg corrado for 18 years. Last week it failed it's MOT. I do not have the time, money or space to get it sorted out. MOT expires proper on the 8th June. She is battle scarred but I would prefer to see it retained within the Corrado community either as a project car or even for someone to break for parts to keep some other Corrados going. Moonlight Blue LC5M The good: Stainless exhaust Kosei sniper alloys New PAS pump New alternator New water pump Spoiler works fine Sunroof works fine The bad: Left side sill has two areas of rust (MOT fail) Two metal brakepipes corroded (MOT fail) Right front wing pretty corroded (MOT fail: indicator repeater insecure) Internals of the cat rattle (MOT fail: fast idle lambda fail, suggest cleaner) Dent to area in front of left-rear wheelarch where someone hit-and-ran a few years ago Lacquer is peeling on bonnet and a few spots elsewhere More details available if anyone shows interest. I may cry if it is scrapped!!

Do you have any left? One door please.

That's what I've used on mine. Is it loose/slipping at maximum adjustment? Could always ask for one 10mm shorter.

Alternator: 950mm PAS: 630mm (although I find that too tight and difficult to get over the pulleys so use a 635mm) Tim

Check for air leaks/splits in the rubber intake gaiter after the metering head.

Resurrecting an old thread: my 2.0 16v is making exactly the same noise as in the video. I noticed from another thread that you changed the water pump, did this sort the noise out?

I have replaced wishbones, balljoints, topmounts and shocks mainly with non-VAG stuff (original ride height) and it was fine for about a year. Now it's pulling to the left slightly and knocking over bumps and when I reverse off the drive. I did get hold of two sleeves to fit with the new wishbones but as the originals I was removing didn't have them, I didn't bother. The new wishbones seemed to be a positive fit. Having said that, the rear wishbone bolt isn't a tight fit in the bonded bush sleeve - I reckon we need some thicker sleeves machined up to remove the chance of the wishbone moving in the horizontal. Here's the VAG alignment? sleeve.

OK, sorted it. There is a horridly placed bolt at the back. 5mm allen key required. Thankfully there are no filings or swarf around the tensioner.

My 2.0l 16 valve has developed an engine-area squeal and I want to have a look at the state of the cambelt tensioner. Now this may seem like a dumb question but how do I remove the cam cover? ETKA shows an M6 allen-head bolt that seems to fix the top half of the cam cover but my cam cover has no such bolt (nor hole to put it through). Is it just a case of yanking it upward? - it seems to be held somewhere. Does anyone have any pointers?

Where is it leaking from?! I take it that it's the low(er) pressure side of the pump? Speaking for the 2.0l: The (Bosch) pump and accumulatorcame to £160 and each of the two (VW only) pipes about £20. It's a horrid job. I found the easiest way was to insert some dowel into the feed/return pipes in the boot which allowed me to pull the pipes through -- giving a bit of slack -- without worrying about being able to get them back! That allows the pump to drop a little further for easier access. The three screws holding the pump come out a lot easier when the assembly is off the car. They only screw into plastic, so they can't really corrode in. I wrapped the VAG metal pipe in amalgamating tape as I'm buggered if I'm having a VW part that I've paid £20 for corrode so quickly.

I just bought one for my 2.0l. Costs about 60quid from an independent parts place. It's a genuine Bosch item. You may need to budget for new pipes as the ones connected to it may be corroded beyond use. They're about 25quid each (!!) from VAG.

The four captive clips are difficult to get off but if you tug sharply... I'm pretty sure that two bottom screws (in red) would come out okay but the one on the top has no head at all. The pipe arrowed in blue was replaced about six months ago when I did the filter (a cheap-fix attempt to quieten the pump). For 30 quid I'm a bit narked that it's rusting already! It's one of those jobs that would be so much easier on a post lift rather than axle stands. :evil:

I'm trying to change the fuel pump, fuel accumulator and a few pipes. The pipes are rusting through, the fuel pump grumbles and the rusty accumulator will snap in two when I undo the pipes leading to it. Of the three screws that hold the fuel pump into its housing, one is totally shot so I need to remove the whole assembly and attend to things "on the workbench". I've undone the four main nuts that hold the fuel pump assembly to the body. That drops the whole lot by about 6 inches as it hangs by the fuel pipes but I can't physically get in above the pump to snip the pipe clip of the feed pipe that runs to the fuel tank. I'm wondering whether undoing the feed fuel pipe from the top of the in-tank fuel pump (from within the boot) will give me enough slack to lower the underside fuel pump enough to snip the pipe clips. Will I also be able to push the pipes back up without removing the tank?!? Does this make any sense?

OK, I reckon I'm in the mire now. This picture is one of the front wishbone bolt's captive nut inside the chassis member. (I grabbed it from some dv video. I have a lipstick-type camera for videoing mountain biking -- don't ask! -- so I stuffed it and a light inside the chassis from the rear wishbone mount.) The problem is that when I apply some rocking pressure to the bolt, small bubbles (in all that oil no doubt) appear within the red area. That means corrosion has worked it's way through the chassis member. Is it even worth me trying to remove the bolt now or is it new subframe/write-off time?

First rule of hacksawing - don't do it if you have a grinder

First rule of hacksawing - don't do it if you have a grinder

I've decided to cut the whole wishbone around the bush into two halves. I should then be able to pull the two pieces off the stud that'll be left and the stud will have more meat on it than if I cut it off flush. I should then be able to get some heat to it and grab it with some mole grips. It's pretty hard going to - only possible if you have a hacksaw like this:

Here's the latest. I took to the wishbone with a hacksaw improving access somewhat. I then drilled a small "pilot" hole and lamped a torx-head bit into it. I got some purchase right upto when the bit snapped and left it's business end in the hole! What's involved in removing the subframe - is it "just" a matter of removing the 14 or so bolts I've just counted? Doesn't it support the engine?

What's the betting that the sump is in the way for that drill..... :x The bolts have a good 30mm of thread on them, does anyone know hoe deep that captive nut is? Some photies:

While removing one of my wishbones, the front mounting bolt has decided to shear and my bolt now has no head but the fricken wishbone ain't budging :( . Suggestions?

Hmm, a short trip to VW and I have a pair. I'm now faced with this though - the sleeve doesn't sit flush as it's longer than the bush and the bolt is still loose in the bush?!

I've decided it's time to replace my wishbone bushes and front shocks. Rather than mess around cutting the bushes out, I've got two new wishbones with them already in. I thought I'd also get new bolts too. The problem is akthough the bolt through the front wishbone bush fits nice and purdy, the rear bolt does not. Looking at ETKA there seems to be an additional sleeve (number eight) inside the rear bush. However, there isn't a part number for this. I can transfer the sleeve (if it exists) from the old wishbone but the likelihood is that it'll be rusted solid. Does anyone think this all looks familiar? Have I got the correct bolt?

I did the filter late last year but the underside pump still makes a noise. John Fox in Nottingham told me today that the in-tank pump is a mere 120 quid!