J-ME

I had topped it up not 15 mins before hand I can drive it all through the week no problems but as soon as I go in a run it goes bananas, if it was a low level it wouldn't go off when I revved it, could it be the sensors?

I've come to find out it comes on at around 50, at either neutral or negative throttle, before I have turned the ignition switch off and on again, but tonight I tried sticking clutch in and giving it a rev and it stopped, any one know why it would do this? It's a 91 1.8 valver rado

1.8 16v | Forrest green | Lowestoft, suffolk Price: £1400 Description: Due to drasti circumstances I have to let my rado go, It is a 1991 1.8 16v with mot until mid October and tax until September (I think) Overall the condition is fair, for a 23 yo car it has a small car park dink on the front arch a spider web crack in the rear bumper and the paint on the front bumper is a little rough, I have just fitted a door repair kit to the drivers side, Currently there is no way of locking the car, as the alarm went bonkers and locked itself willy nilly, And the barrels on the doors don't match the key, it is started via a push button, as the ignition barrel had a fault, There is a lot of history with the car, a £450 invoice for a sunroof repair was one big one, Spoiler still comes up as it should at 45 an goes back down at 10, It has had a replacement set of clocks sometime last year and has been altered to a more suitable mileage, but was mot-d Whilst still showing higher mileage, The exhaust has a few blows, but they just need rear seating and will be fine, There will also be a new engine mount fitted as of this weekend, I think that is everything, Any questions please send message to. 07545638665 and I will do my best to get back to you PRICE DROP £1000 Ono any sensible offer considered

Thank you very much, you are a true credit to humanity... Arse lol

Audi pepperpots I have a mate who is CNC machinist and could make me some, what are they made of usually? And if anyone says metal, I'm going to give myself a Chinese burn

I've got a 91 1.8 and have just got hold of some Audi pepperpots off an a3, I'll need adapters, et on the audis is 38, will they be pokey?? Also will they look crap?

Just realised my dipstick does this, how should it be? On or off??

Which gaskets? And what electrically needs changing? And what happens to the Kjet?

I think my 1.8 valver may be on its last legs, how hard is the conversion?

What piece of te carpet is that? And white??

Well here's hoping you made it better than that? Surely it would have been easier to get a length of round bar instead of a sacrificial deep socket?

Is that how u done it??? LOL Lucky for me I'm a welder by trade lol

FMMFL so I now gotta strip seats out and weld it then?

Really loud pop both dogs shat themselves and handle is now nearly verticle Is it cables gone?

How much of a punch it need? It seems like it's on a shoulder and where it should be :-/

Nope 405 was the measurement to the top most part of the dipstick when seated, The orange doofer is 70mm so it would seem that mine is 25 mm longer than yours, does your orange doofer spin fairly easily?

The tip to seating flange, was that the top of dipstick to where the tube enters the block? Mine only measures 405mm to the top and everything else is exactly the same, So using my higher intellect and superior working stuff out powers I'm low on oil

Just measured it, 185mm to the bottom most part of the guide, but as it had been left alone since 4pm last night, the oil was just showing on the bottom of the stick, Should I chuck a litre in??

The only bit that is left from the old red one is about the size of a jelly ring from some haribo star mix And hose height was were it was before but there was nothing holding it in, it just jiggled about and was probably breathing oil out from it ha

1.8 16v my guide was bruk so I ordered a new one off of eBay and it now sits here Is this too high?? If its correct I have no oil lol

Pretty sure it's leaking lol, there is mayo in expansion bottle but not in the oil, and I'm pretty sure it's that, my mate had loads of problems with his on his mk2 rocco just trying to eliminate things, and the oil always seems to run a bit hotter on the mfa, I am having coolant loss but that's ending up on the ground

How do I go about getting rid of the daft water cooled oil and convert it to an oil cooler radiator? I guess I have to get a different sandwich plate, but what do I do with the temp and pressure sensors??

Solved! Circlip has gone! The one simple fix on this ballache car lol Also I found an electrical connector at the front of this area two wires, with nothing plugged in what can it be?

Right so I ran it up to temp, with a board underneath the engine, 1 minor leak from the bottom rad hose, and another one I can't quite trace but it's coming from behind the engine where is the thermo housing? Whilst it was running I did see some water/ condensation in the zorst, and moist floor, but that looks and seems to be the heat bringing the moist out of my gravel drive it doesn't smell coolanty is there anyone in east Anglia that is a kr engine know a lot?

Even once I've topped it up with water, the light flashes, and last night after I hooned it a bit not racing my mates mk2 rocco the oil pressure light came on with a horrible buzzer turned he car off whilst driving and flicked it back on and it's out, then back on, turn it off and on, stays out for twenty mins, then comes back on, also the coolant probably lasts 50-60 milesish and the bottle is proper empty? Please tell me it's not head gasket