16V INLET MANIFOLD

[JBOB 0]

I have heard from a mate of mine at work today that you can swap the inlet manifold from a Golf 16v straight on to my Corrado, is this right and is the golf one bigger, i think he said its 50mm.

What gains will i get from swapin them, and do i need to swap both parts.

[h100vw 0]

You need to swap top and bottom halves. You only make gains at the top end. With a drop in the mid range. Some people like it others don't.

 

Gavin

[JBOB 0]

I dont think ill bother then, i like the power ive got (for now) and i dont really need any more high end power cos where r u gonna use it apart from a track.

 

Thanks Gavin

[h100vw 0]

You'd find a way of using it I am sure. :mrgreen:

[JBOB 0]

Not on Huddersfieds roads, ive got to deal with potholes the size of Jupiter round here, and the police seem to be all over the M62 at the moment.

If i can get hold of a cheep one i might have a go :twisted: just in the name of science of course.

[Rossco 0]

Ive done this mod to mine and it fairly shifts where the power comes in, appears to do nothing till about 5k then its starts to shift on, probably worth havin a go at if you can find a cheap one

[flusted 0]

If fitted the bigger one and it does pull hard at 5k but i changed back to original one and car felt in general alot quicker and nicer to drive

[aide 0]

defo depends on driving style, i've polished the 42mm one and intend to swap them back over with polished head - am tired of thashing it everywhere, but is a nice kick with larger manifold

[davidwort 0]

defo depends on driving style, i've polished the 42mm one and intend to swap them back over with polished head - am tired of thashing it everywhere, but is a nice kick with larger manifold

 

internally polish and port match at least the lower half to the head, you only want a rough polished surface and to remove some of the quite rough casting lines inside, with a ported and polished head, even on a 2.0L lump the 42mm inlet (esp when cleaned up and port matched) is perfectly OK IMO.

 

David.

[aide 0]

yeh it's difficult to get a proper polished finish in the upper section, having problems getting a nice finish around the equalizing tube on bottom section too. as you say think general rule is smooth in the inlet and mirror finish in chamber and outlet. Any idea of torque figures your getting with your setup David?

[davidwort 0]

yeh it's difficult to get a proper polished finish in the upper section, having problems getting a nice finish around the equalizing tube on bottom section too. as you say think general rule is smooth in the inlet and mirror finish in chamber and outlet. Any idea of torque figures your getting with your setup David?

 

Not yet had my new 6A block on the rollers yet, but the same head and manifolds on my old bored out KR block (exactly same capacity) gave 150lb/ft on AMD's rollers and 146lb/ft on Stealth's.

On stealths rollers it was 8lb/ft better (peak) than a good stong low mileage standard 2.0 16v corrado with the 9A block and flatter inlet cam run just before mine on the same day.

Also developed over 140 lb/ft from 4500 to 6500 rpm :-)

 

David.

[aide 0]

good figures - i'll probably be going for the abf block myself with longer con rods for better torque but lower reving.. if i can find a reasonable one! assume 6a is short block

[davidwort 0]

good figures - i'll probably be going for the abf block myself with longer con rods for better torque but lower reving.. if i can find a reasonable one! assume 6a is short block

6A is the audi 2L 16v engine, basically same as 9A passat/Corrado one but with a different inlet manifold and sump pan, I got one with Bally from a local scrap yard for 100 quid for the whole engine last weeekend!

I don't reckon you'll notice the difference with an ABF, it's very subtle and realistically there's little or no power and torque difference with the same head, cams and manifold.

Lots of threads on the Club GTI forum about this issue but no proof an ABF is, or can be any revvier or more torquey, In fact I think the ABF mk3's had a lower rev limit than a KR, but that could be for some other reason like emissions?

sorry I thought you said more revvier, not less, in theory the ABF design should be better at high revs I think.

David.

[aposegil 0]

sorry but i wouldnt touch a ABF block even if u gave it to me for free

 

on my mates corrado it hasd a engine replaced about 4 years before he got it but they replaced it with a ABF and not 9A engine

 

well that thing just crumbled to pieces didnt pull aswell and suffered from everything going wrong

 

Since we changed it back to a 9A and put the KR head on it he drives it like a nutter all day long as its worked without fauly and he noticed a huge difference in the car especially that the 9A likes to rev more than the ABF

 

just my 2p's worth

 

p.s i still have to see what this difference between the inlets is as ive never noticed it

[aide 0]

might just get the KR boned out !

 

 

lets not do the whole 9a/ ABF/ KR cylinder head differences/ which is better - i'll get confused :lol:

[davidwort 0]

might just get the KR boned out !

 

 

lets not do the whole 9a/ ABF/ KR cylinder head differences/ which is better - i'll get confused :lol:

 

mmm, I had a TSR built KR bored to 1984cc, don't even want to get started on that, believe me the 6A/9A/ABF is a safer way to go. I've still got the scrap metal if you want to see why :cry:

 

David.

[aide 0]

yepo boring out is quickest way to mess your water jacket up, i'll get a block as makers intended...

[Bally 0]

now now chaps, let not fall out :lol: