Idle & cold start valves - prices?

[golddust 0]

OK,

I've replaced pretty much everything I can think of to cure my running/ignition problems so now I guess it's onto the bigger things.

 

Latest thinking is that maybe it's either the cold start valve or the idle valve.

Anyone got any prices on these? I'm close to both a Euro car parts and a VW Stealership so all avenues accepted, including 2nd hand parts (anyone got some?).

 

Cheers!

 

So far:

Fuel filter, plugs, leads, cap, rotor, dizzy, air filter clean (K&N). What else is there?

Problem is crap running on cold start. Takes about a minute to do a warm start! Plus it runs crap when I floor it!

[Bally 0]

Dave, take the idle valve off, clean the connector with WD40 or carb cleaner & clean the idle valve to, I had a smliar problem, they get dirty & need a good clean!

 

by cleaning it never had no trouble since.. :D

[golddust 0]

May as well I guess!

I just figured they couldn't be serviced as parts. Will give it a go though.

 

Incidentally, I just called "Wayside Part Centre" in Bletchley about a cold start valve, they're £117.80 + VAT and they're on back order so they don't even know when they'll have any!

[Henny 0]

Have you actually checked your injectors yet? I'd bet that they're the original ones and are in need of replacement due to not sealing properly or being slightly clogged....

 

do a search for "jamjar" written by me and you'll find out how to test your injectors... ;) 8)

[golddust 0]

I've not checked them yet. I spent too much of Sunday changing the rotor arm which some tw*t had glued on!!!

[Henny 0]

it's glued as standard from the factory... feck knows why though... :roll:

[golddust 0]

That is weird! I ended up dremmeling a channel up it then "hammer & chiseling" the plastic to split it. Seemed odd to me though as the distributer is fairly new but the rotor worn right down....

[kerrinmay 0]

I had great difficulty getting my rotor arm off the other week so got the dealer to do it. Hadn't even considered that it might have been glued on!

[kerrinmay 0]

Regarding testing the injectors, can this be done on my 2.0 16v the same way as is described by Henny for the 1.8 16v? Do the injectors come out the same way? Am I likely to break anything trying? If I get an injector out, should I be able to get it back in without problems? I don't really want to try this if there's a chance I'm going to stuff up the car and not be able to use it until I get a spare part or something! :roll:

[davidwort 0]

Regarding testing the injectors, can this be done on my 2.0 16v the same way as is described by Henny for the 1.8 16v? Do the injectors come out the same way? Am I likely to break anything trying? If I get an injector out, should I be able to get it back in without problems? I don't really want to try this if there's a chance I'm going to stuff up the car and not be able to use it until I get a spare part or something! :roll:

 

2.0 is same as 1.8, you just have knock sensors, a lambda probe and electronic control of fuel pressure, you just yank the injectors to get them out, a bit of WD40 or having the engine a bit warm helps, go back in dead easy, but worth getting new rubber seals for them, old ones are probably hard and can let in air.

 

David.

[golddust 0]

Oh bugger :-(

 

OK, Sunday I removed the Idle valve and warm up valve (aka cold start valve). I gave them a good clean and actually dissmantled the warm up valve, cleaned inside and reassembled. Now things are worse than ever!?!?

After starting this morning it was desperately trying to stall and touching the accelerator drops the rpm to 200 and it tries to cut out, foot off and it picks up... Was just about better after about 2 miles but still not good!

 

Very confused....

 

And before you ask, nope I still didn't check the injectors. :oops:

[dubbprince 0]

i have an ISV goin spare...in perfect condition and vibrating fine. :oops: