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rs200f40

20VT into a G60 Corrado again....

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Out of interest how much did you get the engine for?

 

As I've been on the lookout for one and so far am looking at a 225bhp one, low mileage at £1450. Seen others cheaper but missing the loom/ecu.

 

 

I found a AUQ 180bhp version for £500 with all ancilliaries, turbo, downpipe, loom, etc. The gearbox was another £175.

It's got 45k miles which was a bit higher than I was really looking for but at that price I wasn't too concerned. Haven't got it yet, it's going to be removed this week hopefully.

Local breaker had a 225 TT engine but he wanted £1500 for the bare engine only. The turbo was another £250, I didn't hang about to find out what the rest was going to cost :shock:

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That's a good deal! Well done on finding that one.

Best I've seen is £725 for a bare 180BHP engine.

 

Are you using the 20V gearbox? If so have you sussed out how to fit it? That is to say are 2002 Beetle drive shafts the solution?

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its not the drive shafts that you need it's the drive flanges out of the gearbox that need changing and you use your drive shafts.

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i think there dealer only mate and there about £70 each if i'm not mistaken,if your costing the job up mate have a look at my for sale add cos im selling mine.

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Cool, do you happen to know the approx cost from either dealer or GFS etc? Basically I'm costing up the job at present...

 

 

I'll find out next Saturday when I pick them up from the dealer and let you know.

 

20V Turbo, what size of boost tubing did you use? I was thinking on 2.5" but wasn't sure if 3" would be better, especially on the hot side of the intercooler.

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Cool, do you happen to know the approx cost from either dealer or GFS etc? Basically I'm costing up the job at present...

 

 

Drive flanges - £123 for 2

Driveshaft bolts - £27.64 for 12.

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Quick progress update.

Front mount intercooler's in, total cost about £40 which was for the intercooler and the 63mm tubes to connect the hoses to as the original inlet and outlet were in the wrong place. Didn't need to cut any bodywork or drill any holes for it either, made up some brackets to pickup unused existing holes.

 

Need a different radiator now, does anyone know of a radiator that has the inlet and outlet at opposite ends, rather than the G60 one which has them both on the passenger side?

 

Intercooler.jpg

Intercooler%20in%20car.jpg

Engine.jpg

 

Thanks

Alan.

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GO OUT AND BUY THE PERFORAMCE VW FOR THIS MONTH, THERE IS A 1.8T conversion AND EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO DO IT WITH IN THERE!!!!!

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Was going to tidyup the the sub frame and give them a good coat of paint. They look worse on the photo than they actually are.

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well i used the VR6 non aircon radiator and just made up a steel link pipe with 2 90' samco bends on the ends,i think you'll struggle to find one with the inlet/outlet at opposite side's thats big enough.looking good now 8)

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I just want to check something with those that know. :lol:

 

If you got a 99 AGU from a Golf. It would have the following;

 

Forged Crank

Large Head ports

Non VVT

External Water pump

Cable throttle

20mm Piston Pin

 

and KO3 turbo.

 

That right?

 

Would this engine then be capable of BIG power (300+bhp) with bigger injectors, turbo, intercooler and stand alone engine management. Without having to change any internals?

 

So, I'm thinking if you fitted a K04 turbo and bigger injectors to a AGU you would then have a better engine than a 225 BAM engine code jobbie. Because you'd have all the good stuff plus larger head ports, external water pump but minus VVT and DBW. :lol: :lol:

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thinking of a little project there cai :D

afaik they are the same engines apart from pistons,heads(small vvt on bam) conrods are the same 20mm pins crank not sure on that and external water pump ??,mines an AGU and it's in the block.look on the club gti forum and there's a very good spreadsheet with 90%of the 20V's on it spec and all.

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Andy, thats exactly where I'm getting my info from. ;-) Just heard it wasnt 100% and to be taken as a guide. ;-)

 

We'll I fancy a change, had my G60 for over 2 years now. Fancy a 20v but cant fit one myself and dont fancy paying £5000 for sombody else to do it. Think I'll get something that comes with a AGU factory fitted for my next car. Still haven’t decided so weighing up my options.

 

Thing that worrying me is the cost of remap evertime I add a new mod. A DTA, Emarald or Haltec may be the way to go but seems a shame to butcher a factory installed setup in that way. Also want the car to be very reliable.

 

I dont think the word reliable is associated with running custom ECU's or what ever the term for them is :-) , even if they are setup well.

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well mate mines run perfect since it was mapped right just after the dubsport rr day last year,but in saying that i would'nt butcher a factory setup to put a after market ecu in,hope you find what your looking for :D .where are you based now anyway :wink:

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Yeah my feeling exactly. :-)

 

Back in North Wales at the moment and probably for the forseable future. Will be at some shows with the new car next year......what ever it ends up being. I'm sure I'll see you there. I may try organise another RR day when I've got a new motor to put through its paces.

 

Your cars looking even better than when I last saw it. Last time I was at yours you where complaining you didn’t like the way the accelerate cable went right across the engine. Can see you've ran it nicely under the engine cover now. Where's your battery gone?

 

I'm pritty sure the internals on the AGU are the same as the 225's. Read it on that Club GTI list and in a article on 20v engines in Golf magazine. Think both say the compression ratio's are different. So does help confirm that the pistons are different like you said?

 

Also did I hear you where selling you car?

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IT'S ALIVE

:D :D :D :D :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :) :) :D :D :D :D :D :) :) :) :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :) :D :D :D :D :D :D :) :) :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :) :) :D :D :D :D :D :D :) :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :D :D :D :D :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :D :D :D :D

at least it was on the 3rd attempt. First attempt I found I had the fuel lines the wrong way round which resulted in a shower of petrol when I pulled them off to check there was fuel :(

Second attempt it wouldn't turn over very well, Ignition leads were in the wrong order on the coil. I had them connected by firing order but it's actually numbered by cylinder.

Third attempt and away it goes, runs perfectly.

Just have to find out why there's no hot water getting to the radiator.

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IT'S ALIVE

:D :D :D :D :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :) :) :D :D :D :D :D :) :) :) :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :) :D :D :D :D :D :D :) :) :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :) :) :D :D :D :D :D :D :) :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :D :D :D :D :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :) :D :D :D :D

at least it was on the 3rd attempt. First attempt I found I had the fuel lines the wrong way round which resulted in a shower of petrol when I pulled them off to check there was fuel :(

Second attempt it wouldn't turn over very well, Ignition leads were in the wrong order on the coil. I had them connected by firing order but it's actually numbered by cylinder.

Third attempt and away it goes, runs perfectly.

Just have to find out why there's no hot water getting to the radiator.

 

Congrats mate! I know what that feelings like!

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Hi,

Can anyone help with a water temp sensor problem?

The G60 has a temp sensor for the ECU and another for the dash. The 1.8T has a single sensor but with two elements, one for dash and one for ECU. I've used the 1.8T sensor but it doesn't seem to have the correct scale to work correctly with the G60 dash. Guage was upto 110+ but water must have been 70ish as I could still put my finger in it.

How has anyone whose done a G60 to 1.8T conversion got around this? Is there another temp sensor housing I can use to be able to use the original 2 G60 temp sensors?

 

Thanks

Alan.

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You just need to stick a variable resitor in line with the wire going to the temp gauage. I did the same on my mk2 20VT.

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