icedmk1g60 0 Posted February 2, 2005 I am new to this forum and was wondering if anyone can help. I have been doing a g60 conversion into my mk1 golf, the engine is a 1992 G60. i had the engine running ( without o2 sensor or intake air sensor before removing engine to fully refurb engine bay. i have refitted the engine complete with new exhaust manifold o2 sensor and intake air seensor, i have spark ,compression and fuel ( lots of it ) but cannot get it to start sometimes pops but not much else. any help would be appreciated. i am sure i have the timing correct, 1342 but i have not changed any cam timing since it last ran Please help i have to get the car moted painted and ice installed by end of march many thanks james Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 3, 2005 Check the dizzy, maybe try another if you think everthing looks ok... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted February 3, 2005 Logically speaking - you have spark, you have fuel - the only thing that can stop it from running is bad timing. Wether that be firing order, cambelt or distributor timing. Timing should be set to 6 degrees BTDC - there are 2 timing marks on the flywheel, 1 is TDC & the other is 6 degrees BTDC. Crankshaft spins clockwise so it should be easy to see which is which. Email me if you need the full proceedure for setting the timing (not so straightforward as you may think) - mailto:[email protected] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted February 3, 2005 It does sound as though your problems are electrical though - I'd unplug the ECU & re-check all your engine earthing points. Once you get the car running you could try this too - How to test your boost levels - UK spec cars 1. Start Engine 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop engine 5. Start engine 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 450-800 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 800 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 450 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) :rambo: 2000 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended Info courtesy of http://www.snstuning.com - plenty of other tips on their site too - go to the DIY section.. :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
