SCARY!! VR6 Gearbox Strip down and Quaife Diff Install

[24V Renshaw 0]

I figured as I was doing it and everyone told me "its a nightmare", "don't do it", "pay someone else to do it" etc.. i figured I would do as much of a write up as I can about doing the strip down of the 02A gearbox along with the install of the Quaife Torque Biasing Diff.

 

This is not to be used as an exact "how to" but more as a guide to some of the less obvious bits of the job. If you are undertaking a task like this I am assuming you have the basics sussed already! :)

 

So here goes.

 

First of all you will need, alongside the standard socket set etc..

 

A 12 tonne press.

A full set of Torx keys up to size 60.

A full set of spline keys.

A Dial test indicator.

A large 2 leg puller.

 

First stage is to clean the "average" gearbox.

[24V Renshaw 0]

The next step is to remove the selector tower. Remove the bolts holding it top and bottom, then knock the base round to break the sealant allowing easy removal.

Remove the two torx bolts from the casing that hold the reverse gear selector inside the box. One is down inside the casing (down the side of the 5th gear assemblies), the other is on the bottom of the box. Next remove all of the bolts holding the two casing together. Then carefully knock the two apart using a hammer and a block of wood. This will expose all the gear stacks, the selectors and the diff.

[Blue_Joe 0]

James

 

Your a certified loon :cuckoo:

[VR6 0]

Top marks!

 

(Moving though)

[24V Renshaw 0]

So you now have the gearbox apart.

 

Next step if you are fitting a new diff is to remove the crown wheel from the old diff.

In order to do this you need to drill out all the rivets in the diff.

[24V Renshaw 0]

Next I spent a while cleaning everything as much as I could.

I managed to get the casings pretty clean on the outside using turps and a conical wire brush in a drill.

You can also press out the outer races of the tapered roller bearings if required. I have down both the main output bearings, just because I wanted to.

[24V Renshaw 0]

Next comes the more complex bits.

You need to establish what the preload shim size needs to be for the diff. There will be a shim between the output bearing outer race and the casing on the passenger side.

You need to remove this bearing and shim and then fit the new bearing outer race without the shim in place.

Place the diff with its new bearings into the lower casing and then fit the second casing on and bolt the two together.

Using a Dial test indicator (DTI) carefully zero it against the diff output shaft and then moving the diff up and down measure the float.

Whatever the float measures you need to fit a shim to achieve effectively -0.4mm float (0.4mm Preload).

So for example my float was 0.5mm. Therefore I need a 0.9mm shim to achieve a 0.4mm Preload.

Remove the passenger side bearing outer race and fit the new shim, then refit the bearing outer race again.

Time consuming but essential.

[24V Renshaw 0]

I will continue this next weekend, when I have put it all back together with new seals, bearings etc..

[Pau1 0]

How on earth did you find out about the oven trick Jay? Top marks !

[woody 0]

Very impressed m8. Benn thinking about having my gearbox rebuilt with a new diff and VR6 2nd Gear. How much and where from was the new diff

[chargedupstorm 0]

Excellent write up Jay, so you missed your Sunday roast then?

Are you going to change the synchromesh or the flywheel?

[Andi 2,147,483,647]

"Most complicated post. Ever."

 

---

Jay - how do you keep such a fit Mrs. indoors?

You hardly ever see her!! lol

[Skunklook 0]

The problem being that now the Renshaw family have no teeth, they had crown wheel, roast spuds, brussels and all the trimmings! :lol:

 

Looking good Jay, nice effort!

[Skunklook 0]

Yeah but Andi, that's not a very flattering picture that you posted of her!

 

:lol:

[Andi 2,147,483,647]

If I had personal pictures of Jay's Mrs - I wouldn't go out, mate ;)

[24V Renshaw 0]

Andi - I guess I am just lucky! :)

 

Pau1 - The oven trick is quite a common method of fitting bushes, bearings etc.. so I figured it would work on a crown wheel. There are two options for loosening the fit, heat up one bit or cool down the other, or if they are different metals or one is cast and one is billet, heat up both.

 

Woody - I bought the diff from a bloke at the Bournemouth Rally who was running a 16v MK2 Golf. He had changed for a different gearbox and was keeping the diff as a spare until I convinced him to sell it to me! :)

 

Guy - Yes I will be putting a balanced VR6 flywheel on. As for the syncros I am currently in the process of checking all the clearances to make sure none of them need replacing. They all look fine but time will tell.

 

Jay

[Jimjam 0]

If I had personal pictures of Jay's Mrs

 

 

You got PM.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

JOKE!! :wink: :lol:

[Henny 0]

:notworthy: Jay? You're a nutter... but you've been told that before... ;)

 

Fantastic post matey! Hope the rebuild goes well... 8) :notworthy:

[24V Renshaw 0]

Cheers Henny. Nutter Nah. The people who pay £500 to get a gearbox rebuilt are the nutters! :)

 

Jay

[Henny 0]

 

 

:lol: I had more money than time when I did that... next time, I may just attempt it myself... ;)

[24V Renshaw 0]

LOL, didn't know you did it mate! :) Still I hope this will help you a bit if you do it.

 

Jay

[Henny 0]

it's a bloody good write up, and may well have inspired me to do something similar to the next box which'll end up in J-DUB... :notworthy: 8)

[CoxyLaad 0]

scary stuff - one thing I dont think I would mess with.

Full marks for doing it though!

[24V Renshaw 0]

Its not as bad as you would think. Will be doing the final stages this weekend, so will post pictures up of everything on Sunday.

 

Jay

[Valver 0]

Keep up the good work James!