Knocking KR

[bigbluec 0]

Hi Guys,

 

My 1.8 Valver seems to have developed a knocking when i let off from about 4k rpm upward and occasionaly when under load (3rd gear low revs and floored)

It sounds like it's coming from the bottom end :cry:

(sound very similar to a knackered cv joint but without as many knocks)

 

Any thoughts on it? or what to do to? repair/replace?

[h100vw 0]

If it is the bottom end then I would think of the big end bearings. Not usually audible at tickover or under heavy load in my experience. Cheap to eliminate though. The bearings are just over a tenner from GSF and a sump gasket is about a fiver. You may want to consider using new rod bolts and nuts although they may be reused once on a G60 and the KR would be the same I think.

 

Gavin

[Bobby 0]

how difficult a job is this to do? Is it just a case of dropping the sump and popping in the new bearings or is difficult than that.

[h100vw 0]

Pretty simple. Just need a 1/4 drive socket set to get the few bolts that are shielded by the bell housing.

 

Drop oil out 19mm, take off the dust shield at the bottom of the bellhousing 11mm, remove sump 10mm, remove oil pump 13mm. Doing a rod at a time. Undo the nuts 13mm, pull the cap and push the rod up the bore. Drop new bearing over the crank journal, with a good squirt of oil on it. New bearing in the cap. Refit and torque up as per the book. Which I cannot remember. You do need a torque wrench though for the first part. Also very important not to over torque the oil pump and distort the housing.

 

Bigbluec may have oil pressure problems which don't need a bearing change. Oil thats too thin or which is very old may give these symptoms. Also if the pick up to the oil pump is blocked starvation may occur too.

 

If you have the sump off to check the pump, may as well stick the bearings in for a tenner.

 

Gavin

[bigbluec 0]

For that kind of money i haven't got a lot to lose trying it!

The oil is Quantum Silver but is in need of changing as it's done 6k

 

What is the best way to check the oil pump is working ok?

 

Just to clarify the noise is quite a heavy sounding knock knock that will happen if i have the car parked up rev the engine till 4k+ then let off.

[h100vw 0]

It makes the noise on the overrun then? My G60 you could only hear as you set off really gently, on a tickle of throttle. It was worst about 2000 revs. Starting at 1500 and going completely by 2500. The bearings in mine were donald ducked.

 

Oil pressure gauge is what you need to check if the pump is any good. That won't confirm the flow is correct but it is a good indicator. Have a look on ebay for a VDO gauge from an AUDI coupe or 80 sport. Get the sender as well if possible.. If you see a gauge without a sender, I have a couple in the garage.......

 

Gavin

[Baz2004 0]

Check the front engine mount also as they have been known to get loose on the 16Vs.

[bigbluec 0]

Well I've decided to go for the bearing replacement this week with oil change and new front engine mount as it is a little tired.

 

So from what you've said Gavin it should be a fairly easy job to drop the sump and one by one replace the shells.

 

Is there anything other than the shell bearing that i should be replacing while i'm there? and if anyone could tell me the torque setting for the crank bolts it would be much appreciated :wink:

[h100vw 0]

Have a look at a MK2 Golf haynes manual. I have lent out my Bentley. You may want to get a new set of studs and nuts for the conrods.

 

Gavin

[NickVR6 0]

Hi Bigblue, just to let you know i have a vdo oil presure gauge at home (no sender though). Your welcome to grab it if you can get that sender

if you want to check out your presure? Be nice to meet up again anyway bud, when your on the ground for a few days!

 

Cheers

Nick

[bigbluec 0]

Good to see you're alive Nick!

May take you up on the VDO but definitely will on the beer!

I'll give you a call..... Nice rims by the way.

 

By the way gavin was going to replace the bolts but they're £9.46 each :shock:

[h100vw 0]

Good to see you're alive Nick!

May take you up on the VDO but definitely will on the beer!

I'll give you a call..... Nice rims by the way.

 

By the way gavin was going to replace the bolts but they're £9.46 each :shock:

 

Is that from VW. I got a sump and gasket plus the bolts and nuts from C and R for about 35-45 delivered. It was a while ago.

 

Try ringing C and R or TSR.

 

Gavin

[bigbluec 0]

Well after dropping the sump and replacing the shells I've got one left to do as one of the conrod bolts snapped :cry:

And now it turns out that VW were talking about the crank bolts being £9.46 the conrod bolts and nuts are a mere £5ish quid and will take till tuesday to turn up F*&k$%g stealers!

 

To top it all off, the shells look almost mint and in the sump i found to small shavings of very shiney looking alloy and quite a few bits of what appear to be the remains of a copper washer.

 

So two new questions!

1. Any ideas where the shiney alloy and copper have come from?

2. Which Way do i turn the conrod bold to extract it from the conrod?

[Henny 0]

conrod bolts push into the conrod... they've got a ribbed edge to them so they won't turn... ;)

 

Shiney alloy shavings sounds like someone's had a head skimmed and hasn't blown out the oilways properly when they re-fitted the head... I can't think of a copper washer within the engine which could have got into the sump... only thing I can think of is that some muppet dropped it in while doing a head gasket... :roll:

[h100vw 0]

Post some pictures of the shells for us to look at. The ones furthest from the oil pump wear the most.

On my G60 1 and 2 were well shagged. 3 had been looked at and 4 was std. I could tell from the marks on the bolts that 1,2 and 3 had been disturbed and from the dates on the shells which ones were original.

I would be surprised if there was no wear at all.

Gavin

[stevemac 0]

One of my mates has a 1.8-16v too. Had his head completely rebuilt, changed the b/e bearings & the thing still knocks .. :mad:

 

Next thing is to take the pistons out of the engine, replace piston rings & check little end bearings. May as well do the main bearings too, as his engine will be in bits.

[bigbluec 0]

Cheers Guys,

 

So if the conrod bolts push in how do i extract the bolt?

Its problems like this that make me hate my car!

[h100vw 0]

With the good bolt done up snugly, knock the duffer out with a hammer and punch. They aren't that tight.

Gavin

[bigbluec 0]

Thanks for all the help guys, especially Gavin!

It's back on the road now woo hoo! :D done a 100 miles gently below 3k rpm

And will prob take it easy for the next 3-400.

 

I also changed the oil pump as a precaution as i noticed it had got tappety leading up to the knocking big ends and now that has completely stopped!

So touch wood all is good......... Until 5 minutes ago when i noticed the spoiler has started playing up! :evil:

[h100vw 0]

Them Bearings don't need running in, the whole point of them is that they run on a film of oil and never touch the crank at all.

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

Join this and read what the fella has to say. He shows some bearings in one of the newsletters that have mega miles on them and others that are totalled after a few miles.

 

Very interesting.

 

Help is what the forum is all about. Gald we have helped you out

Gavin