Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
StormVR6

Scirocco experts...advice please

Recommended Posts

My brother just bought a Scirocco GTII today, excellent condition in and out at a good price.

I changed the plugs, filters, leads and gave the carb a good clean, I just wanted to know if there are any bits I should look at that are prone to going wrong?

The carb itself isn't solid (moves about a bit) although I think a new seal will sort that out.

 

I'm not sure what kind of performance he should be getting from the car, although it doesn't feel like it's pulling like it ought to (or is that a carb engine for you?)

So if any Scirocco Guru's can give me any pointers it will be much appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

MB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The main thing with Scirocco's are the brakes. They have the Mk1 cross linkage sheeite-brakes issue. There's a rear disc conversion and I think 280mm will go on the front.

 

Get your brother to try a couple of emergency stops, to get a feel for them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Poor performance - CHeck the timing hasn't been retarded for unleaded petrol - ie TDC. Timing mark is the v notch in the flywheel (6'TBC) and should line up with the pointer dropping down on the engine side of the timing hole in the gearbox bell housing. TBC is referenced by a notch on the pulley at the bottom end of the engine on the offside (cambelt side) lining up with an impression mark in the plastic side cover.

 

Brakes, can be sorted by adjusting the brake pedal push rod (under the driver's side of dash - drop the under dash cover to access ) two turns to take up the slack between the pedal and brake bell cranks) but check the brakes remain free after adjusting, ie. the brake pressure can still relieve back to the master cylinder on pedal release. Handbrake to 3 notches for full hard on. Again check the rear brakes free fully on release.

 

If it's the original Peirburg Carb and the car is above 80K miles, think about a Weber replacement. (£250)

 

Split petrol tanks, lip edge either side just in line with the front edge of the rear tyres. If OK get in (bad access, really needs the tank dropping which means the back axle needs to be dropped as well) and rust proof the area with Kurust and then use a liquid underseal like Supertrol 001) and regualarly inspect once a year. (New tank £230 + fitting)

 

Petrol filler down pipe in the rear offside wheel arch corrodes filling the tank and fuel pipes with little rusty bits. Check, if OK, rust proof paint after wire brushing with something like Kurust and then lacquer paint on top with waxoyl on top of that.

 

.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent, cheers chaps, great bit of advice, the brakes were a bit of a shock (especially to me!) but yeah an emergency stop is not impossible!

 

The lack of power steering is also quite shocking to experience after all these years of taking it for granted.

The carb is indeed a Weber replacement, so that should be OK.

 

Again thanks for the input, my brother will appreciate that.

 

MB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a filler neck that I bought at a show years ago, thinking it was for a mk1 Golf. I showed it to Jim Cotton(Awesome GTI Store), who would said it was for a MK2 Scirocco. It will be cheap if it's needed.

 

Gavin

 

EDIT can take it to e38 tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

TBH Fuel economy will be about the same as your VR, quite shocking I know, but that's Carbs for you ;)

 

PowerSteering - Come on, build up those arm muscles :)

Brakes - I ended up going for Audi 80 front setup, leaving the back as standard Drums, works quite effectively.

Good idea to check out the fuel filler neck, common fault on Roccos.

Also a good idea to check the throttle cable isn't trying to pull the bulkhead through (kits are available for this if it happens)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Also a good idea to check the throttle cable isn't trying to pull the bulkhead through (kits are available for this if it happens)

 

Yeah, the throttle is quite stiff, and becomes extremely stiff (as if the cable is going to snap) if you try and push it flat to the floor. I assumed the cable was catching inside the casing, but your description sounds more feasible.

Where would these "kits" be available?

 

Gavin, I'll get back to you mate, I can't get hold of my brother at the mo, cheers for the offer.

EDIT Gavin PM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yeah, the throttle is quite stiff, and becomes extremely stiff (as if the cable is going to snap) if you try and push it flat to the floor. I assumed the cable was catching inside the casing, but your description sounds more feasible.

Where would these "kits" be available?

 

That's the clutch pulling thro' the bulkhead. Being a GT11 it's already modified at the factory with a little lip plate on the engine side of the bulkhead on the lower half of the clutch cable hole on the engine.

 

Throttle stiffness - check the whole cable, the radius of any turns should be gentle and be 2 foot radius or above otherwise there will be binding. If not that, change the cable. This is not a common problem with the Mk2 S, something about how the cable is routed is wrong.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That's the clutch pulling thro' the bulkhead. Being a GT11 it's already modified at the factory with a little lip plate on the engine side of the bulkhead on the lower half of the clutch cable hole on the engine.

 

Hmm. My old 1990 GTII didn't - I had to get one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hmm. My old 1990 GTII didn't - I had to get one.

 

Its quite a small plate, unlike the patch plate GSF sells. Partly hidden by the clutch cables rubber support bung on the engine side. And it's added before painting the body shell. All August 1989 production onwards but not listed as a retro repair part. Therefore all GT11 & Scala Injections from G plate mid plate year onwards, ie. about Jan 1990 onwards.

 

The plate is fixed on with adhesive.

 

The early plate for August 1989/ July 1990 production was as the picture. Post August 1990 it was much smaller, being hidden under the rubber-seating bung of the clutch cable.

 

If the cable pulls through the bulkhead, it’s usually a sign of a clutch very near the end of it’s life as the VW clutch mechanism gets heavier as the friction plate wears.

 

 

.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

gearboxes can be a problem to, usually selecting first gear. also the windscreen seals go, you usually find a small swimming pool in one of your footwells! my scirocco gt had every single fault thats been mentioned but apart from the replacement carb & new petrol tank was usually cheap to fix.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...