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**Ian**

Car wont start ( HELP )

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I have been fixing up my project raddo since before christmas, most things are back together now and the loom has been swapped for the G60 one, problem I have is she turns over fine on the key but I have no spark whatsoever :? There is a 12v feed to the black coil wire on the + terminal which then makes the green live also but no spark :(

Any thing i should be checking or any ideas would be appreciated as I have run out off time and need to get her running ASAP :?

TIA Ian

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G60 coil?

 

BTS - test resistance of sender and check continuity of look...

 

Hall sender on the dizzy is the other thing to check...

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I presume it may be the coil as its still got the 16v coil on it, I have tried a different coil of my spare 16v which I know was working and still no joy :? Is there that much difference between the coils :?:

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After doing a search I am still no wiser on my starting problem, I have a 12v feed to the coil, I have checked continuity from the coil to the ECU and from the ECU to the hall sender and all check out ok, I am also getting 12v through the coil HT lead :? is that right, does this point to a knackered ECU, I have a G60 coil on its way so should be able to rule that out this week :? I presume there is supposed to be a live feed to the hall sender, can anyone confirm this :)

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Coil resistances (in Ohms, obviously):

 

1.8 16v - Primary = 0.6-0.75, Secondary = 6900-8500

1.8 G60 - Primary = 0.5-0.8, Secondary = 2400-3500

2.0 8v - Primary = 0.5-0.7, Secondary = 3000-4000

2.0 16v - Primary = 0.5-0.8, Secondary = 2400-3500

 

Source: Autodata Technical Data manual

 

So, it seems only the 2.0 16v and the G60 share the same coils, at least as far as specification goes.

 

As for the Hall sender, I would expect to see a constant supply voltage across pins 1 and 3 with the ignition on - approximately 5v probably.

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So if the coil checks out that would suggest the ECU is knackered as it has a 12v feed off the coil :? I need to find someone local with a G60 so I can try my ECU on there car :?

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It's just as possible that the Hall sender is at fault. It's easier to test a Hall sender than an ECU too (unless you happen to find someone locally that can try your ECU on their car that is).

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Yeah true, but it is not getting a 12v feed from the ecu and the wires from the ecu to the hall sender all have good continuity, would that not suggest the ecu or some of the wiring to the ecu :?

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when you switch the ignition on whats happening ? any isv ? also are the injectors firing when you are trying to crank it over ?

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do you have any power to your ecu ?

 

i presume you have installed the ecu-pump relays into the correct position on the fuse board ?

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Right I got a another relay from the scrappies today and I now have a really good spark :D But she still wont start :? it turns over then stops then struggles and turns again, would that be down to over-fuelling because I still have the 16v fuel pump fitted :?:

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no the 16v pump will be fine. are you getting fuel - spark ? if so i would check the physcial timing of the car

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