1.8 to 2.0

[kevin 0]

having probs with my head blowing oil,so decieded to take my raddo off the road strip of the head ,get it ported,polished,gasflowed,.But i have been offered a complete 9A engine out of a 2.0 raddo for the same money as i can get my head flowed for?According to other forums on the net this is a much better option? as this will increase power and torque much more than getting my head sorted on my kr engine,apparently if i put the kr cams into the 9A head i should boost power to 160BHPish without any probs,.Has anyone got any views on this MOD>or do you think i would be better with my old block and flowed head.

Is there a down side to this.

[vr6storm 0]

i take it when you mean complete.....you mean all the fuel injection,ecu,and ancillaries??

if not you probably will need them as the 1.8 16v is mechanical fuel injection whereas the 2.0 16v is more electronic fuel inj...to be honest i can't see how the kr cams would give you an increase of 20+bhp alone :? ,as the 2.0 16v(fitted to corrado's) has "only" 136bhp as standard...though admittedly that is catalysed,and if you got it to work you wouldn't need the cat as your car should be cat-free 8)

i was always under the impression that the kr engine is more tuneable than the 2.0 16v corrado engine........then again i'm no mechanic :?

[kevin 0]

your point is what im getting at ,apparently the 9A lump will work on my old kr fueling system ,the 2.0 litre is only 136bhp and the 1.8 litre 139bhp but the 2.0 9A has much more torque than my old kr. and as you have said no C.A.T the 9A runs milder cams because of the cat, thus changing to higher kr cams gives you better figures .

[aposegil 0]

personally mate go for it.

 

I used to have a 1.8 16v and now im using a 2L 9A block, granted its bore out and fully speced up and goes like crap on a shovel, but even on a standard engine you will notice the difference.

 

Reason its easy to get 160bhp out of a 2L 16v is that first of all youre removing the CAT. Secondly if you but in KR cams they are slightly wilder so you get alot more top end. Thridly because the 2L engine has better built internals ull have a huge increase in torque and the power will come naturally.

 

There is pleant of corrado's and mkII 16v's that have dont this and no one has one complaint out of it :)

 

Also it will run fine on you fuel system just get a mechanic to set it all up and drive away. Also that reminds me another reason is that the 2L 16v setup will produce more is that the fuel system always adjusted itself to run low power figures so you couldn't turn up the fuel but because the K-jectronic on the KR blocks is just a little screw you have to turn means u can get more fuel in there without worrying about the ECU turning it back down

 

good luck with what ever u decided

 

alex

2.1 16v

[davidwort 0]

Similar to alex's car I've got a 1.8 16v with a bored/stroked KR lump to 1984CC, basically the 2.0 crank and pistons.

On it's own the 2.0 won't actually give you a lot more power, in fact a race engine tuner (Dave Baker- http://www.pumaracing.co.uk) told me it may well only give about another 6-7bhp over the 1.8. It will give you a corresponding torque increase with the capacity rise though, say 10%. which makes the car much more drivable, although doesn't change the engines basic characteristics - everything seems above 4000 rpm!

A head gas-flow alone on a 1.8 can give 15bhp more, done really well up to 20+. Combine the two and you can get a healthy power and torque increase.

One thing to note though, the 1.8 cams will sacrifice some low end torque on a 2.0 block, I've got back to back power and torque rolling road plots with a standard 2.0 to prove it, but having said that after 4000rpm the graph climbs very quickly above the standard car's. On a corrado, losing low end is not great, because of the weight of the car, it works much better on a mk2 golf16v, or even better an 800kg mk1!

As Alex said, on the KR bosch k-jet injection system you can just tweak up the fuel pressure with a screw on the back of the warm up regulator, doesn't seem to loose much fuel economy and gives a bit of a richer mixture for a tuned engine, a full k-star fuelling and ignition mapping system may get you a few bhp more, but I'd say spend the money on head work instead. K-star is just a very expensive way of squeezing a couple of hp more from a tuned engine really, in fact my 2.0 runs on regular unleaded just fine, even with 1 degree more ignition advance than it should run at, it's possible that headwork lowers the compression just enough to prevent pinking anyway.

Anyway, after all that waffle, if you can get a cheap 9A in good nick, go for it, but to mod it more, it must be in good condition, headwork and wild cams could be jsut too much for an old weak unit.

 

David.

 

your point is what im getting at ,apparently the 9A lump will work on my old kr fueling system ,the 2.0 litre is only 136bhp and the 1.8 litre 139bhp but the 2.0 9A has much more torque than my old kr. and as you have said no C.A.T the 9A runs milder cams because of the cat, thus changing to higher kr cams gives you better figures .

[20valver 0]

As a 1.8 16v owner this all seams very tempting. Has anyone completed such work on high milage engines before? Mine has done 140,000 and not how well it will handle much modding.

 

Another thing, what sort of prices have you been looking at for this sort of work?

 

What have you paid if you have had the work done?

 

And where is reccomended to get the work done?

[jimbo-corrado 0]

I had a 1.8 16v lump in mine to start with that was kicking 144bhp on the rollers , but broke the crank shaft . So i got hold of a complete 2.0 ABF block from a 150bhp golf , i kept the original head as i got told the cams are higher lift than the 2.0 , and the valves are bigger as well on the 1.8 head .

Now the car feels to have alot more torque and a hell of alot more quicker too .

what i would do is get you head worked , find a complete 2.0 ABF block , mate together and you should be well happy .

I got my 2.0 block for £175 + you will need all gaskets

It cost me around £300 all in , but saved on labour as i did it myself ( took approx 3 days )

[kevin 0]

thanks for the reply's it gives me a bit to think about .Jimbo-corrado what probs did you hav fitting the 2.0abf block did it just "drop in" or does this need any modding ,any help is welcomed as still a bit undecied? :roll:

[kevin 0]

buy the way the engine i have been offered is out of a 95 m raddo thats done 50k my 1.8 kr has done 78k

[jimbo-corrado 0]

Yeh the ABF block fit's straight in , it sits 15mm higher than the 1.8 , you just have to swap bits off the old block onto the new one. The timing belt has to be changed to a 2.0l one ( longer ),and you have to get a new top timing belt cover ( 2.0l one longer ).You use the 2.0l bottom timing cover not your old one ( 1.8 diffrent )

The 2.0l has knock sensors on the block so you take them off , and a timing sensor which you don't connect .

Everything else is straight forward.

[aposegil 0]

95 corrado never had ABf engine they only come on the mkIII golfs

 

Kevin go for it as its identical to yours its just the internals are different. Get it serviced and so you go :D

 

alex

2.1 16v

[kevin 0]

seems to be the best option ,JIMBO its a 9a engine not a abf, have to wair till monday to see if its still for sale

cheers again for your advice guys

[jimbo-corrado 0]

seems to be the best option ,JIMBO its a 9a engine not a abf, have to wair till monday to see if its still for sale

cheers again for your advice guys

 

Mine's a 9a engine not an abf , or your going for the 9a engine not the abf ?