G60 16V intermittant fault

[Delps 0]

Am new to G60s got 1 that has an intermittant fault wonder if any one has some ideas before it costs me large amounts of cash.

 

It starts when its cold and can run fine for days, but then it just cuts out and when i try to restart it it runs very lumpy and misfires, then it just cuts out again. I can leave it and it will restart and it will run fine again. Dont know if its the ECU or whether there might be a simple solution and a few things to check first.

[olly elworthy 0]

sounds like the hall sender in teh distributor breaking down to me mate,,

[Delps 0]

whats the hall sender?

[Adam Darby 0]

I had the same problem olly elworthy is right mine went and it took me age's to find out what it was. Am i right in saying it is like a crank shaft position sensor in that it tell's the engine what position everything is in

[olly elworthy 0]

Hall sender on a 16v G60 is part of the distributor,,

 

change the dizzy i would,,

[Adam Darby 0]

yeh that solved my problems. if you no some one with a valver ask them if you can swap it for a couple of days

[olly elworthy 0]

yeap that way you dont need to spend out before you are 100% sure,,

 

seen some new Dizzys on ebay every now and again for about £50

[Delps 0]

Cheers guys its given me a starting point..

[olly elworthy 0]

let us know how you get on,,,

[Delps 0]

Guys, have been given some duff info.. :oops: its an 8 valve model. Any ideas or same sort of thing?

[h100vw 0]

It could still be the distributor, also consider the ECU relay and the fuel pump relays. Either could have dodgy soldered joints in them which are intermittent. If you are not upto it yourself have someone replace them with known good ones. Or cheaper still remove them, take the plastic covers off and touch up all the soldered joints.

 

I would look at the relays before the dissy as you can substitute them or usually repair them for nothing to prove they were at fault.

 

Gavin

[Delps 0]

have also been told that the blue sensor on the front of the engine could be the problem as well as the lambda sensor connections/earth or the sensor itself..

[h100vw 0]

Neither of those other snags would cause it to stop running completely that I am aware of.

 

A bad Lambda sensor would cause it to run rough/rich IIRC and a bad temp sender can be proved by swapping the plugs over with the gauge sender.

 

My money is still on relays dissy or possibly the ign switch.

Gavin

[Delps 0]

where are the relays sited? Going to explore all of the above 1st then its to the dissy. Whats annoying is the fact that it starts and can run for days with no problems, 1st noted a problem driving down motorway when it died and the fired again with large amounts of black smoke exiting exhaust, fuel consumption went to the wall, just thought it needed a service, which we did. Then afterwards it started to play up when warm and running extremely rough with not uummph to let you pull away. As though it was shutting something down to prevent this, but it always happens when the engines warmed up, will always start from cold or when its been left and did run for a few days after its service. Cars .. who'd have em.. prefer bikes not much to go wrong.. :lol: :lol:

[h100vw 0]

The relays are all on the fusebox on the drivers side of the car.

[h100vw 0]

The warmed up but is more interesting to me but check the relays anyway.

 

When you first start up the ECU waits for the lambda probe to heat up before it gives reliable signals. It judges this by looking at water temps.

 

The BTS doesn't register until about 50deg. This takes several minutes in which time the probe should be well up to temp.

 

Poor/no signal from the probe would cause the ECU to overfuel for protection of the engine but not your wallet!! :mrgreen:

 

I would also look at the wiring to the probe as it goes Very brittle with age/heat.

 

You can monitor the output with a voltmeter set on DC. Look at the purple signal wire, from cold it will have a steady voltage close to zero. As it heats up the voltage climbs towards 1 Volt. Once up to temp the voltage will hunt up and down between about .5 and 1 volt. Your meter won't be able to keep up but you will be able to see the trend.

 

If you rev the motor the voltage will go up to a volt(rich).

 

On the over-run the voltage will go to zero until the revs drop to about 1500.

 

Then, with a closed throttle it'll start hunting again.

 

The black smoke is sort of leading me away from the relays and dissy. Although it could be 2 snags????????????

 

Gavin