brake pipes

[chrisw 0]

Hi all,

 

I just had some rear brake pipes flared for me at a VW specialist because my cheapo tool could not seem to manage 'bubble' flares which is what is required apparently (http://volksweb.relitech.com/brakeln.htm & http://web.dimebank.com/tech/BrakePlumbing.html), rather than the double flare which my tool seems designed for. A couple of Q's:

 

He gave me copper-nickel pipe for the 3 long ones and copper for the v. short one (he had run out of c-n). He said copper will bulge a lot more than the copper-nickel and should reduce sponginess. Is this a significant difference? I am sure the two long pipes from front to rear are currently copper so I would have thought chaning these would be a big benefit if he is right.

 

I gather neither the copper or the copper-nickel is the same as pure copper pipe (which should not be used) ? What is the guy in the second link above (worth a read) on about when he talks of 'Bundy' tubing? Is the Bundy the c-n stuff and the copper is the 90-10 c-n 'British' stuff he is on about?! (yeah I know it is confusing)

 

He also said to make sure I use a pressure bleeder as heavy bleeding with the brake pedal is liable to damage the master cylinder seals. This is the first time I have heard this and it is a bit worrying as I have had mammoth bleed sessions with the pedal in the past. Any confirmation of this?

 

 

Chris

[pwj 0]

Hi Chris, I have never had problems with the bleeding problem, but that was on non VW based cars. Bundy tubing is the more common name given to the steel tubing that is ordinarily used at point of manufacture. Again I have always used Copper or cupro-nickel piping and never had any problems. What Pipes did you have to replace? Just had to replace the steel (bundy) pipes on the front to rear on my motor but I am having a pig of a job getting the nuts out of the compensator at the rear as some animal has rounded them off. So if anyone else reads this any hints please! (Please don't suggest heat as I wouldn't want to aplying heat to something as volatile as brake fluid)

[gaz the geezer 0]

(Please don't suggest heat as I wouldn't want to aplying heat to something as volatile as brake fluid)

 

have you tried cooling it, you can buy aerosols that you can use to freeze items, it kinda does the same job as heat in as much as trying to "break" the grip between metal items, you can buy it from industrial pipe suppliers like bss or pipeline centre - worth a go maybe

[pwj 0]

Hi Gaz, thanks for the tip got some from Halfords believe it or not. Have the whole weekend to play with the dratted things. The stuff I got is manufactured by Loctite and it says on the tin the longer you leave it on the colder it gets so going to give that a try, god knows I have tried everything else and the kids around here have learnt some very interesting new words. Heres hoping that I have the beast of the blocks and back on the road soon as my wife's little rover is doing some serious damage to my street cred!

[chrisw 0]

I didn't need to replace any brake pipes until I dropped the rear axle to do the bushes. I mangled one of those removing it so I go some new ones made up for the four rearmost pipes. I can't seem to get the hang of undoing them without mangling them so I won't offer any advice. As far as the regulator nuts go, if you are replacing them you could cut the pipes and tap a 10mm 12 point socket onto them.

[pwj 0]

Yeah will try that. Thanks. Typical of me that the ones on the rear are the ones I have to try and get off. Well looks like I am going to be at these brakes for a long while.