G60 RUNNING SUPER RICH

[flusted 0]

nope problems still there.

its more thn likely to be the lambda on yours

[Pickard1 0]

I had black smoke when my lambda was broke. Intrestingly we changed it but it didnt make any difference - still smoking. We left the new one on anyway as we couldnt be bothered to take it off again and the problem went away after about 50 miles.

I think the exhaust must have been completely sooted up from running around for 2 weeks with a dead lambda and it took a while to blow it all out again.....

[h100vw 0]

16V pumps produce about 75PSI not 7.5BAR. A world of difference.

 

The FPR should regulate the pressure at the fuel rail. Any excess volume of fuel returns to the tank.

 

The switch on the end of the rail switches on the pump to circulate fuel, if the fuel get too warm though heat soak. This is to aid hot starting by preventing fuel vapourisation.

 

If the ECU blew I doubt it would run at all.

 

The fact it ran better from cold and gets worse would make me look at the lambda probe. The output of the probe is ignored at first to allow the probe to warm up. You can monitor this with a voltmeter on the purple wire and earth. The output should climp slowly towards 1 volt before the meter cannot get a good reading as the voltage is constantly changing. It will output between about .7 and 1 volt.

 

Blipping the throttle should see the voltage drop to 0volts until the revs come back to 1500 revs.

 

If you don't see this happening from cold look at the wiring first. I saw you replaced the probe with a known good one but the wiring has to be considered an equal suspect.

 

Also closing the WOT switch should make the ECU ignore the probe and run open loop.

 

Gavin

[flusted 0]

Thanks gav!

 

When i get in it first thing in the morning, i can drive off and about 30secs away i just starts bogging really bad,but if i keep reving it hard and dipping the clutch,it clears,then its fine for the rest of journey.

 

Is there any plugs on the engine loom i might of got wrong that power the lambda?

Theres a relay on the engine loom, could that be anything to do with it?

When you say "close wot switch" do you mean press the switch in on tickover?

 

would really appreciate it if you can keep an eye on this thread Gav as its doin my head in now.

[flusted 0]

ok checked the purple wire and it reads .36volts all the time,so guess theres a prob?

got a good earth and good live on heater wire though

HELP GAV

[flusted 0]

Checked out the purple wire and black wire that runs to the ecu from lambda and the black wire is cut off and i cant see where it went?

Could still be ecu if the wiring from lambda come straight from ecu?

 

HEP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP

 

(like batfinks beeps)

[flusted 0]

bump

[flusted 0]

someone must know about lambda wiring?

[kongo127 0]

What do you exactly want to know mate?

 

Lambda Pinout?

 

If your Lambda Probe has 4 wires then:

 

 

FROM ECU HARNESS:

 

1 - Red (+12v)

2 - Black (GND)

3 - Brown (GND/Lambda Shield)

4 - White with Red Stripes (Lambda Input on ECU)

 

 

-----

 

LAMBDA PINOUT:

 

1 - White (+12v)

2 - White (GND)

3 - Brown (Lambda Shield) - with a brown wire bolted on the rear engine mount

4 - Lambda Probe Output (you should be good with 0.7volt)

 

So you just need to match these wires numbers! :)

 

Hope this helps...

 

Keep posting!

[biggrim 0]

I think a constant 0.36V means that the lambda is dead matey.

[kongo127 0]

I think a constant 0.36V means that the lambda is dead matey.

 

I totally agree!

 

That´s why the ECU enters in safe mode, dumping more fuel than necessary to avoid the engine running lean.

 

Note: Pay attention to your multimeter input impedance, if it´s too low, the lambda voltage will drop, causing erratic reading. So analogic multimeters usually shouldn´t be used in this case. But only digital multimeters!

[flusted 0]

when i tested the wiring,the lambda wasnt plugged in? how do you get your multimeter pin into the wires with it plugged in?

I have the red/white wire and black wire going to ecu but black 1 is cut off at ecu?

Should i earth this?

[kongo127 0]

The Black wires brings GND to the Lambda Probe, because your Lambda is heated.

So you can get GND from another place.

You may earth the Black wire, or...

The easiest way is to short pins 2 and 3. ;)

You need to get lambda readings with the connector plugged.

I arranged a thin copper wire capable to pass through the connectors, using some force (be gently) to get them togheter.

[flusted 0]

FROM ECU HARNESS:

 

 

Black (GND)

 

This is snipped off at ecu wiring? tried earthing and problem seemed to not last as long but was still there?

Just checked,and this is the ground shielding wire?

Is it important to have connected?

[kongo127 0]

You don´t need to bother with that Black (GND) from ECU, it can even be ignored if you want to.

But you need to get some GND to the same pin where the Black wire was going to connect.

So the easiest way is to short pin 2 with pin 3 (already bolted / grounded on the engine mount) on the lambda connector.

It is important to have the shield grounded in this case, and in major cases the same situation, as lambda output signals are very low and sensitive to interferences from the outside, giving peaks / wrong signals to the ECU.

 

I guess you´re almost done and sorted! :)

Keep posting! :)

[flusted 0]

earthed pins 2 &3 last night, then measured lamda with meter. It fluctuated around 0.37 and didnt change much:cry:

So do i take it that the lambda is mullered or could it still be ecu? remember ive tried 2 different lambdas now.

I get same reading with lambda disconnected

[kongo127 0]

If you got 12v at pin 1, earth on pin 2 and pin 3, and 0.37 volt on pin 4 then your lambda is dead (lambda connector readings).

I could also tell you that your car could be running very lean, but you have the opposite problem. I wish i was closer to help you matey...

[flusted 0]

Yep have the above,so shall i try another lambda?

[kongo127 0]

You can try another lambda without taking out the other one as while you´re not sure about it´s condition.

Now that you know the lambda pinout, you can just hotwire another one lie this:

 

Get 12v from the boot light and GND from any other place in the car.

 

Stick the lambda inside the exaust and read the output from pin 4.

 

Pin 1 - 12v

Pin 2 and Pin 3 - GND

Pin 4 - Lambda Output reading

 

If you get readings, you can always pre-setup your car´s CO value.

 

Turn the CO Pot gently till you get around 0.7 volt on lambda´s output.

 

This will prevent your engine running lean and safely! :)

[flusted 0]

thats genious! will try tommorrow

 

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[flusted 0]

Tried that earlier and had readings like -0.60! Fiddled with co pot and got that to -0.02 but couldnt get it any higher?

Got another lambda here from a 2l 16v audi,it only has 1 wire though,can u use that for testing or will the lambda casing need earthing?

It has 2 white wires which are snipped back and covered in sheathing.

I used a battery pack to power the other lambda at back of car.

[kongo127 0]

Hmmm... :?

 

 

-0.6 volt (minus) reading? Did you respect the correct polarity on the multimeter?

 

About the other Audi lambda... It should work ok, but i don´t understand very well about it´s wiring. :wink:

 

How many wires are in total? Do you have a picture of it?

 

There are some old lambdas that GND is made from it´s shield when attached to the exhaust pipe.

 

There are also some other lambdas that have 2 wires for their output, in this case you need to connect the multimeter here (both), instead of the car´s GND.

 

Hope this helps...

[W3RKD 0]

Have you tried unpluging the Lambda and taping open the WOT switch ? What happens under load when you carry this test out ?

[flusted 0]

I havent but i will, when you say tape open the wot,do you mean to make the switch pressed?

[kongo127 0]

I havent but i will, when you say tape open the wot,do you mean to make the switch pressed?

 

Yes, that´s what Darren means!