1.8t black smoke - now fixed with stealth RR graph

[ben16v 0]

biggerbigben, i`ll reply for sam.

 

thanks for the info.

 

gonna change blue temp sender tomorrow and get it plugged into the laptop, he`s also got a new battery so that can go on too

 

wont be going to Ed38 unfortunately

 

thanks again will keep you informed.

[biggerbigben 0]

ok, once its plugged into the laptop let us know what its reading.

 

good luck.

 

Ben

[alackofspeed2 0]

I don't think it's your coil, as when they go, in my experience, they only show up as faulty under boost / high load. They're fine bumbling around town under vacuum and very mild boost, but then the engine miss-fires horrifically when you put your foot down.

 

The AGU coils (big square-ish items held to the cam cover by 4 bolts?) are meant to be ultra reliable, and a far cry from the later push fit coils.

 

I don't know what the DTA is like, but Ben mentioning the map corrupting is plausible if the DTA ECU is anything like a Haltech ECU - they occasionally screw up for no reason, and reloading the map fixes the problem.

 

R.e Coxy's firing of the spark plugs to purge the cylinders. Is there a function on the DTA you can enable, where if you try and crank the car with the throttle fully open, the injectors are turned off? The MBE ecu does this, and it can be handy.

 

Does the DTA use all the OEM sensors, and its own MAP sensor, or does it use DTA specific sensors throughout?

[biggerbigben 0]

John he is using a 3 bar MAP sensor just like mine and marks. Its in the top right hand side of that pic he posted. I'm pretty sure thats faulty. A nasty backfire could have taken it out, they are very sensetive.

[samg60 0]

Hi Ben thanks for all the help mate, dont suppose you have the part number for the MAP sensor do you ? am going to go and order another from AUDI today when I pick up the blue temp sensor.

 

hit another problem last night the MAP supplied to me on the floppy disk seems to be unreadable, going to try and plug into the dta tonight and at least retrieve the MAP form here so that I can at least store it safely, lets hope taht isnt corrupt as well ......

 

am also going to speak to vince this afternoon, to see if he can shed any light

[biggerbigben 0]

No problem, glad to help. I know how frustrating these things can be, it happened to me and I almost went mad trying to solve the issue.

 

Have you changed to the new batt, I know it sounds odd but unless those coils are getting around 12 volts each they can play silly buggers!!

 

Don't buy another MAP sensor until you have re-installed your current MAP mate.. as and when it might be better to see if you can test out another sensor before buying one. They are not cheap - £50-100.. If you have to purchase one then I think your best place to buy one is from Ben Leach - QPeng engineering. Nice guy, very helpful and good prices. Its not an Audi part though mate, its aftermarket so you won't get it at the Stealer!

 

 

B

[alackofspeed2 0]

John he is using a 3 bar MAP sensor just like mine and marks. Its in the top right hand side of that pic he posted. I'm pretty sure thats faulty. A nasty backfire could have taken it out, they are very sensetive.

 

Yeah I spotted it in the pic - lurking by the bulkhead. It does seem the most likely culprit, assuming the mapping is good.

 

Once the DTA is connected to a laptop it should be pretty easy to check it's working, as you said above.

 

With regards to the bad starting issue, I've found a semi fixable solution. Just need to open the throttle body a touch, i.e. I've just used some cable ties to make sure it idles around 1000 rpm and I haven't had a problem with the cold start since. I will be fitting a mk1 stablisation valve shortly which does effectively the same thing.

 

There's a neater solution:

 

http://www.qpeng.com/conversion_guide_7.html - see step 26 ;-)

[samg60 0]

ok spoke to vince and he says basicaly what Ben said either teh map sensor is up the duff or there is a split in the vacum hose, am going to check the vacum hoses tonight but need to find someone who will sell teh map sensor if its bust, the part number is GM 806-667 3 bar sensor

[biggerbigben 0]

With regards to the bad starting issue, I've found a semi fixable solution. Just need to open the throttle body a touch, i.e. I've just used some cable ties to make sure it idles around 1000 rpm and I haven't had a problem with the cold start since. I will be fitting a mk1 stablisation valve shortly which does effectively the same thing.

 

There's a neater solution:

 

http://www.qpeng.com/conversion_guide_7.html - see step 26 ;-)

 

arhh bugger off John..lol.. Its 'work in progress' !!! :lol:

[biggerbigben 0]

ok spoke to vince and he says basicaly what Ben said either teh map sensor is up the duff or there is a split in the vacum hose, am going to check the vacum hoses tonight but need to find someone who will sell teh map sensor if its bust, the part number is GM 806-667 3 bar sensor

 

Qpeng engineering.. http://www.qpeng.com/

[peteTDI 0]

biggerbigben, i`ll reply for sam.

 

thanks for the info.

 

gonna change blue temp sender tomorrow and get it plugged into the laptop, he`s also got a new battery so that can go on too

 

wont be going to Ed38 unfortunately

 

thanks again will keep you informed.

 

i'am not sure on this DTA , but standard the temp sender is a black or green four wire job and the blacks allways go wrong and are replaced with the greens. how many wires are on the one on the car?

[ben16v 0]

its a black 4 pin pt no 357 919 501a when i searched EKTA it comes up with anything scirrocco to 4 motion,

 

so clicked on 4motion and he`s gonna get on of them tomorrow as the TT replacement is different pt no and scale.

 

so this TT engine doesn`t look like its gotta lotta TT bits on it!!

 

thanks

[samg60 0]

The saga continues, obtained new temperature sender from VW today, however the part number has apparently been superseded and the part I obtained has 140max rather than 125max on the side I asssume this is max operating temp and that the voltage scale will not have changed ?

need to get a laptop to test MAP sensor however taht is proving difficult and I am a computer applications developer (for &*^&^ sakes)

also took a picture of the foloowing, its a tap on the side of teh inlet manifold to adjust teh amount of air on a cold start, however i assume that where its attached to is a two way and therefore will need to be closed once up to temp otherwise I will lose boost (anyone ??)

[biggerbigben 0]

yes you will loose boost!

[samg60 0]

I could however put a one way check valve there right ?

[mk2_20vt 0]

Do you seriously have to open that valve when cold, wait for it to warm up then get out and close that valve?. Why not get it mapped properly so the ECU controls the cold start fueling.

[CoxyLaad 0]

that hole in the inlet manifold is a bad thing.

I will cock up everything, get it blocked off.

[samg60 0]

fair point was only interested as it was there, but your right of course it will cock everything else up, going to remove it this evening and stick a plug over it, no idea why its there at all ?

[samg60 0]

where is the idle adjustment on the 20v (told you I was new to these engines) and do you need the blue temp sender unplugged to adjust (as with the g60s)

[leon 0]

Mate of mine has a 20vT Corrado running on DTA, ,mapped by Vince at stealth. There are absolutely no cold start problems at all. Cars runs sweet whether cold or hot. No cold start valves or anything like that. ECU should control the cold start. :)

Might be best to take a trip to Vince and have him throw his eye over it, You could be forever trying sensors and vacum lines whereas with a few minutes on the rollers plugged into the laptop he will be able to tell if there is a sensor not doing what it should and fix it or if there is a problem elsewhere in the ECU with the map!!!!

[biggerbigben 0]

Open the casing on the throttle body (7 black screws with alan key heads i think) and there will be a metal flange at the end of the spline. On that there is a section bent at 90 degrees to allow the buttefly to stay open enough for air to enter the engine on ideal. Get a set of mole grips and bend it until you are happy with the idle...

 

See pic...

 

OR use cable ties like I did as a quick fix on the buttefly section where the cable connects.. ;-) King bodger Radford !!!

[samg60 0]

yeah spoke to Vince, quite helpful, will take it to stealth at some point to get a cleaner map, the Map I have is for sprint racing hence the cold start issues etc, vince going to help me ove the phone once I get a laptop sorted (should be this evening) . Need to get the car running though and to be honest don't mind getting my hands dirty. thanks everyone and hopefully get this sorted soon

[20v turbo 0]

you could do what i've done to control the idle then you can change it whenever you need, i find i have to turn it in 1/4 to 1/2 aturn in the winter and then back out when it gets warmer.

[CaiosG60 PWR 0]

Have you got a new map sensor yet Sam?

[samg60 0]

Right then No New Map sensor yet although can get get one by early next week,

plugged a laptop in last night and the Map sensor seemed ok (1 bar when engine was off so atmosphere)

and then .5 bar when engine was at idle so below atmosphere.

air/fule was cycling between 10 - 14

going to ring Vince again at lunch once I have the laptop plugged in again

 

 

 

car seemed to idle ok last night and no black smoke, but didnt take it out, am concrened until I know its 100% ok