G60 Running Hot

[Nick 0]

Got my engine in, and all up and running, but ive had a few problems with temperature.

 

My oil temp gauge didnt work with the old engine, was replaced, and solved the problem.

 

Its fine for say 15 minutes, but then will start to creep up towards the 110 mark which is too hot!! Im checking my coolant everyday, and its okay, not using buckets of the stuff or anything, but i havent dared drive it for longer than 30 minutes incase she blows!!

 

Ive replaced the rad temp sensor aswell, as i dont think the fan is cutting in, but not sure thats worked, so could it be the problem, or do you think its something else?

 

Cars a '91 G60.

 

Cheers,

 

Nick

[Andy665 0]

Is it oil or water temp that is hitting 110.

 

Worth changing the blue temp sender if its the water or the oil temp sender if its the oil

 

I replaced mine with non OE and get readings that were....lets say, inaccurate - now have OE ones in and much more accurate

[Supercharged 2]

Is it a new engine? - they will always run hot for a bit...

 

Water going up to 110c in traffic usually indicates a bad rad fan thermoswitch

 

As above always use OE sensors...

[iow_corrado_g60 0]

if its the oil 110 isnt a problem ive seen 118-120 after a proper long blast! and checking the coolant will only be good if the water temp is 110 what oil you using nick synta silver from vw? also if the water is getting hot all the time i would of though it was your rad or the like

[Nick 0]

Well, what does the gauge on the far left of the G60 dash measure? Water or Oil temp? Whatever it is, its that thats getting hot.

 

I put in some cheap Halfords oil, just to get her going, before draining and replacing with Synta Silver stuff direct from VAG.

 

Rad fan thermoswitch - where am i likely to find this? on the rad im assuming, but where?

 

Its not a brand new engine no, done a few miles, but less than my car, and it works, so thats the important bit!

[Henny 0]

check your fuses!

 

I had loads of problems which ended up taking out the headgasket on H-YYU.... all 'cos of a dodgy fuse which ended up blowing and stopping the fan from cooling the radiator... :(

 

Anyway, gauge on the left shows COOLANT temp, display on the MFA shows oil temp. Water temp should stay around the middle of the gauge's scale (most VWs gauges are calibrated so that's the normal range)

 

110 is WAY too hot for normal running... your fan should have come on WELL before then, and if it hasn't it needs investigating ASAP....

 

Good luck!

[Tempest 0]

Rad fan thermoswitch - where am i likely to find this? on the rad im assuming, but where?

 

When standing in front of your engine bay, on the right hand side towards the bottom, and on the engine side of the rad, round thing with a 2-wire cable running from it.

 

Tempest

[flusted 0]

it would be a 3 wire! bets theres no live there

[DanVW 0]

Had my oil pump changed on wednesday and probably stupidly decided to do the boost check on the 20 mile run home was chuffed thats its pushing .7 bar @ 6200 rpm however when I got home I noticed the oil was at 114oC and the water was past the 110oC mark :oops: it had a new blue temp sender three weeks ago adn the fan kicks in ok but have only ever heard it going at one speed, can anyone confirm the G60 should have a 2 speed fan? Think I should slap in a new thermostat the weekend :-)

 

Cheers all

 

Dan

[catch_twotwo 0]

Yep standard 2 speed fan.... If you take the plug off the rad you can short the wires to get it to kick in at low and high. Good test for the fan.

 

What temp does the fan kick in at. Should be about 90° I think. You could let the car sit and when she hits 90° check that the fan kicks in on slow.

 

Also when she's running (carefully) feel the top and botton rad hoses. If the coolant is going through the RAD then both should be hot. I had a bad thermostatic switch on mine that stopped the water flowing through causing overheating. This then blew my heatermatrix due to the extra heat. So best to sort it out quick sharp.

[Pickard1 0]

Deffinitely check the rad fan is working by shorting the wires, and also check the fuses. This doesnt cost anything and is a worthwhile check. Replacing all the temp sensors from VAG will cost over 40 quid and might not change anything.

[Nick 0]

Worth changing the blue temp sender if its the water or the oil temp sender if its the oil

 

I replaced mine with non OE and get readings that were....lets say, inaccurate - now have OE ones in and much more accurate

 

I have replaced the blue temp sender, and also the black one next to it, as i didnt know what it did. Still dont actually (is it oil temp?). They were replaced with ones from GSF, could it really be reading that inaccurate?

 

Drove in this morning, after not driving it for a few days, and although the readings on the gauge and the MFA didnt get 'too hot' i had a warning light come in the left hand corner of the dash. Im assuming this was water temp warning, as it has the same symbol as the gauge above it. No beeping as i was used to.

 

How would i 'short' the fan into working? Would somebody be kind enough to take a pic illustrating how, as im useless with wiring, and even if its impossible to wire wrong, ill still do it wrong. :x

[Pickard1 0]

The blue one tells the ECU what the temperature is.

The black one tells the temperature guague on the dash what the temperature is.

Both water temperature.

 

The flashing light, if not accompanied by beeping, will be low water level. Did you loose much coolant changing the sensors- probably needs a top up.

 

The light that flashes and beeps at the same time is oil pressure. If that is sounding you should stop driving.

[Nick 0]

The blue one tells the ECU what the temperature is.

The black one tells the temperature guague on the dash what the temperature is.

Both water temperature.

 

The flashing light, if not accompanied by beeping, will be low water level. Did you loose much coolant changing the sensors- probably needs a top up.

 

Sweet!! Twas a bit low (like 10mm under minimum when i checked earlier, but obviously didnt top up whilst hot!)

 

The light that flashes and beeps at the same time is oil pressure. If that is sounding you should stop driving.

 

I know that one...its why i replaced my engine in the first place!! :mad:

[Pickard1 0]

Pictures as requested......I must be bored :lol:

 

First off I made up a length of wire 4" long with two spade connectors on the end, all sourced from the local garage for a few pence. I suppose you could just use a plain bit of wire, but I thought there was less chance of shocking myself this way :shock:

 

Pull the plug off the back of the radiator fan thermoswitch. Plug one end of the wire connector you have made into the solid red wire. Then plug the other end into the red/black wire. The fan should start. Leave the end plugged into the solid Red wire and try the red/white wire. The fan should also start.

One should be fast and one slow....unfortunately I cant remember which is which and I have fudged the wiring on mine so I cant find out. I am sure someone can enlighten us.....

 

Be carefull not so snag yourself or any of the wiring in the fan. Also I seem to remember someone saying it was best to only short the fans for short periods of time....maybe so as not to overload the connector if you have used flimsy wire..... :?

[Nick 0]

Pickard1 :notworthy:

 

Thank you very, very much. You are a legend. If the fan doesnt start, what does that mean?

[Pickard1 0]

I think you will get one of 3 things happening.

 

1. Nothing, in which case you may not have power....fuse?

2. It works on one speed only. Likely that the slow speed controller in the fan has broken.

3. It works fine.