Another 16V Question.

[Kaktus 0]

Hi guys.

I've been playing with the idea of increasing my cc's to 2.0. I'm currently running 1.8 16v KR bottom end, with what seems to be a 16v head of a 9A engine. It's still running k-jet with no cams. Basically standard except for an exhaust, intake mod and the 2.0 head..I know the 1.8 head flow better, but this is how i bought the car.

 

My question is.

How would I go about to upgrade the bottom end to 2.0. I don't want to buy a complete motor, as I am satisfied with the head and the k-jet. Is it just a matter of getting hold of a 2.0 crank, and pistons to suit the job?

2nd question is: What cams can I run on the k-jet? I don't mind a little bit of lumpyness.

 

The last question I have is. If I decide to buy a complete ABF. Will I be able to keep the k-jet? Would I have to change the exhaust header due to the increase in block height?

 

Happy Dubbin

Kaktus

[davidwort 0]

best bet is an audi 6A engine, I've seen 150K ones that are in perfect nick, I picked a complete one up for 100 quid last year incl. head.

Don't bother re-boring the KR, the cost of components makes it too expensive.

Stick the audi lump in complete, swap your oil pump pickup pipe and sump (the audi one is designed for the engine fitting lengthways in the bay) and if the head is rattly or has worn guides and stem seals then simply stick your existing head on it with a VAG metal headgasket and new bolts IRO 30 quid.

An ABF head will need inserts for the k-jet injectors and is the best of the 2L blocks but there's not much in it and they are much more expensive and harder to come by.

I'm pretty sure you can get away with the 1.8 downpipe and manifold, the ABF isn't that much taller.

read this: club gti 2L 16v thread

[Louie Lungbubble 0]

Quality reply (as ever) David. But having recently priced up all these bits, you'll not see much change out of a ton for a VAG HG & head bolts. :|

[Kaktus 0]

Thanks guys.

I've been reading through that 16v threat on clubgti the whole morning so far.... :D

 

One more question. Some oakes told me that a 2E 8v bottom end can also be used? Any comments on this?

What i can think of is the intermediate shaft that must be changed, will my kr one work?. The 8v dizzy hole should be plugged. And the oil pickup?

[davidwort 0]

Quality reply (as ever) David. But having recently priced up all these bits, you'll not see much change out of a ton for a VAG HG & head bolts. :|

 

:shock:

 

I paid 17 quid for a metal 2.0 16v VAG headgasket from Wayside Milton Keynes and 2 quid each for the bolts from GSF ???

[davidwort 0]

Thanks guys.

I've been reading through that 16v threat on clubgti the whole morning so far.... :D

 

One more question. Some oakes told me that a 2E 8v bottom end can also be used? Any comments on this?

What i can think of is the intermediate shaft that must be changed, will my kr one work?. The 8v dizzy hole should be plugged. And the oil pickup?

 

Be careful with this one, KR and 9A/6A int shafts are different as are the drive gears and ends of the oil pumps and the bung in the block, these bits are V expensive from VAG, like nr 100 quid for a little drive gear!

I'm not sure which combination of parts you'd need to use a 2L 8v bottom end , you'd probably get away with just the drive cog for the end of the oil pump and the bung to cap off the dizzy hole, a bit of part number investigation on ETKA would be needed.

 

David.

[Kaktus 0]

Thanks David.

You are of much help mate. I'll propably end up bying a 2l 16v bottom end, or complete ABF.

 

Which one of the following will give the biggest advantage.....Worked head, or profiled cams? Ofcause they both will work best altogether, but which one should i do first?

[davidwort 0]

Thanks David.

You are of much help mate. I'll propably end up bying a 2l 16v bottom end, or complete ABF.

 

Which one of the following will give the biggest advantage.....Worked head, or profiled cams? Ofcause they both will work best altogether, but which one should i do first?

 

Bit chicken and egg really, you won't get the most from high lift cams unless the head can flow better, but without higher lift cams a flowed head will be limited.

But, the 16v heads do flow pretty well as standard so you will notice an improvement at the top end by just sticking in some lumpier sticks and from my experience you'll get a fair bit more power from using standard kr cams in a flowed head.

I'd rather spend the money on headwork as high lift cams on the 16v are a bit too peaky for a daily driver and in particular the fairly weighty bulk of the Corrado, KR cams are a good compromise on mid range torque and top end power.