fazgti 0 Posted January 9, 2007 well that means i have to really buy the cois and fit them to see if it makes any difference Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaker™ 0 Posted January 9, 2007 If your definatly getting a misfire fault code then at least one coilpack will definatly need replacing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fazgti 0 Posted January 11, 2007 Got the fault codes today P1433 17841-Secondary air pump relay J299 open circuit 17840-secondary air control valve N112 P1432 17526-02 heater circuit (bank 1-sns 2) open circuit (P1118) Bank 1 sensor 2 resistance too high (P1114) Can-bws power train missing message ABS ECU (P1649) 17978-engine ECU blocked P1570 error intermitant 17705-turbo/throttle valveconnection pressure loss (P1297) 16684-misfire recognised P0300 16685-cylinder 1 misfire detected P0301 16486 mass air flow sensor 670 signal too low P0102 well some are fairly sraight forward but others arn't, can someone break them down plz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaker™ 0 Posted January 11, 2007 Well i'm not overly clued up on codes but...... i'd say change coilpack on cylinder #1 or at least swap them around abit and see if the code follow the coilpack. Also get your MAF changed. IIRC its £70 + your old one at the dealers. Then re scan for codes. Either that or post the codes on a mk4 Golf forum maybe? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fazgti 0 Posted January 12, 2007 Yea ive sent my gf to VW today to find out what some codes are.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaker™ 0 Posted January 12, 2007 Done some digging for you..... 17841-Secondary air pump relay J299 open circuit Tied in with A/C I believe too, if the C isn't running it, or for that matter the secondry pump heres your problem 17840-secondary air control valve N112 P1432 N249 Bypass done incorrectly? Split hose? 17526-02 heater circuit (bank 1-sns 2) open circuit (P1118) Possibly tied in with the secondary air pump problems, check to see is he has the pump or not. Bank 1 sensor 2 resistance too high (P1114) Crank position sensor or knock sensor may be on its way out, or not connected. Can-bws power trainmissin message ABS ECU (P1649) ABS been plumbed in or not? Or possibly using the Rado ABS pump and not a newer one which links to the 20VT? Or the ABS ECU is faulty, clear to see if it comes back or write out. 17978-engine ECU blocked P1570 error intermitant Again, clear and see if it comes back. May have something to do with the engine swap and the engine tried to be fired without the transponder ring, clocks, ecu and keys all matching. Failing that a faulty connection to the transponder ring can cause this. 17705-turbo/throttle valveconnection pressure loss (P1297) Again check the hoses around the N249 area, replace all for silicone. Or it again could be due to the progress throughout the conversion... been fired without all complete parts. Clear see if it returns. 16684-misfire recognised P0300 Spark plugs or coil pack, give it some new plugs anyway! 16685-cylinder 1 misfire detected P0301 If still returns once given new plugs, coil pack is also needed. 16486 mass air flow sensor 670 signal too low P0102 Dead MAF. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaker™ 0 Posted January 12, 2007 But you 'may' be lucky and find that your battery just needs replacing. It has been known that a weak battery can throw up codes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fazgti 0 Posted January 12, 2007 Right Beaker the c is'nt running A/C so thats the first code, dont really need to worry bout that, i think the best thing to do is stick a new coil pack on cylinder 1 and a new MAF then see how it runs, what do you reckon cheers btw for digging that out :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peteTDI 0 Posted January 12, 2007 17526-02 heater circuit (bank 1-sns 2) open circuit (P1118) Bank 1 sensor 2 resistance too high (P1114) are you running two lambda sensors pre and post kat (if fitted)? sensor 2 is post kat (after) if its not fitted the ecu's looking for it and thats why the codes are coming up 17705-turbo/throttle valveconnection pressure loss (P1297) air leak as posted clear the code and recheck 17841-Secondary air pump relay J299 open circuit 17840-secondary air control valve N112 P1432 this pumps air into the intake to lower the exhaust emmissions when the engine is cold and i've never see it fitted to a 1.8t change the maf, check the spark plugs are all good,check the wiring on the coil packs, swap the coil pack on number 1 with number 2 clear all the codes, take for a good test drive and then recheck the codes, if missfire on number 2 pops up change all 4 coil packs if ones going there all going Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fazgti 0 Posted January 12, 2007 So air control valve ignore and also my cars not got a Kat fitted and i think its only using the one lamba so just check that is ok Plugs just changed so i will test the coil pack and re-scan codes and finally i will check hoses round turbo (any particular one to look out for?) and buy a new MAF for it c heers for your help pete faz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggerbigben 0 Posted January 15, 2007 I haven't really read the whole thread but I would check the following! : Firstly check all the vacum hoses are connected, not cracked etc. Lamba would be my first port of call if its running a little rough. If the EMS is not able to work out the air/fuel mix in the exhaust then it will be all over the place. OEM managment relies on that signal the most to run right. Coil packs - these can go all the time. Best bet is to use a strobe light to test these. Or carefully take the coilpack out with the spark plug and earth it out (spark plug) on the cam cover and watch the spark.. check all 4 to be sure they are all working. (disconnect the fuel pump to stop fuel going into the engine - and be careful!!!) Next is to check battery voltage - odd I know but 20vt's don't run right unless the coils are receiving more than 11.1 volts at any time. Worth getting a volt meter across all the coils / starter motor area / alternator Next I would say either MAF or ignition amplifier. Both can upset the running of the engine. I had an ignition amplifier fail on me Next I would suggest a nice pint of beer and a good head scratch as I'm running out of ideas. It can only be 1 of 3 things.. air, fuel or electricity. Can't really think of anything more at the moment. Get stuck let me know, don't get time to come on here that often but I will try to check this thread soon. hope this helps. Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fazgti 0 Posted January 16, 2007 More than enough ideas to be getting on with there cheers Ben faz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fazgti 0 Posted February 12, 2007 Finally fixed the problem (touch wood), put a new MAF on it and it drives like a different motor, also found a hose had split just after intake, but still has a little misfire so coils are next Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
