Alpine H/U Fitting

[Brando 0]

Hi guys, I've got my old cda-1505r back from my clio and I want to install it in the Corrado. I cheated with the clio and wired it directly off the iso connector as oposed to directly from the battery. With the Corrado I want to do it properly.

 

How best do I connect the leads to the battery and also, my negative lead has been cut quite short(thanks BMW), how best(to make it safe!) do I join the wires??

 

I take it that I need to connect the negative lead back to the battery?? and not chuck it back through the quite small gauge iso negative??

 

thanks in advance,

 

Olly :twisted:

[dubster82 0]

The iso connectios are totally ok for headunit wiring.

 

infact, thats exactly what its there for..... :?

[Jim 1]

Ditto.. thats how I have always hooked up my car stereos (about the only car stereo related task I know how to do!) and everything works fine?

 

As you say Brian, thats what its there for! :)

[Brando 0]

Yeah they are ok but the alpine unit needs to draw directly from the battery to achieve maxium quality!

 

There is a noticable difference!

 

In the clio I had shit speakers so it didn't bother me much, but I want some focals for the front and not yet decided on the back (sub + speakers / 6x9s).

 

I know it needs to be fused near the batter on the positive, just wondering about how to join up all the wires safely.

[Beetlebug_2001 0]

I always use wireing blocks to join my wires up they help alot when u aint got a hole lot of wire coming out of the back of the HU, is that the question you wanted answering or am i reading it totaly wrong?

[JohnJ 0]

In my view it depends on the spec of the HU.

 

The high power Alpines (i.e. 60W/channel) have a seperate wire for the +12v supply since the peak current demand is near the limit of the ISO spec.

 

The other HUs should be OK running the ISO supply, but by all means run a separate wire if you are having problems.

 

All IMO of course.

[Brando 0]

Yeah its a 55w hyperamp and it does need the +12vs but what about the negative connection.

 

And sorry for my ignorance but what are wiring blocks, they sound just the ticket??

[JohnJ 0]

OK, I am with you now.

 

The black lead does not need to go all the way back to the battery, just find a solid earth point. There is a earth 'spider' in the driver-side footwell, behind the dash and just above the bonnet release lever...run a decent guage cable from the head unit , over the top of the steering column and connect with a 5mm spade crimp.

 

Best option to join cables is to make a solder connection and the protect with heatshrink tubing. Next best is to use bullet crimps. Next best is wiring blocks (or terminal block or chocolate block) insulated with tape. Do not twist wires together and try to avoid the blue wiring clamps (mentioning no trade names!).

 

HTH :D

[G60Jet 1]

Brando, If you are going to use the pre-outs then the OEM wiring loom is okay as the pre-outs send a line level signal to the amp and then the volume is altered by increasing the line level signal slightly.

 

The is an earth point behind the center consol pocket (you attach spade conntector to it)but the OEM Loom will be earther there anyway :wink:

[Brando 0]

Cheers for your help guys.

 

That is wicked news g60Jet, I did wonder how the pre-outs would be affected by the amp or not. I do intend to only use all three preouts, but start with the sub and rear speaker ones first.

 

I used bullet crimps with the clio iso, so the leads are all infact bullet crimped already, will just snip the corrado ones crimp and be away :)

 

(if I can be asked to get a sub still not decided, decisions decisions!)