Ginger60 0 Posted October 23, 2007 Hi, The dreaded day when I look in my rear view mirror & the cool party trick hasn't raised up after 17 years of flying. So I checked it out, the control box still makes the relay clicks from inside when I manually operate it. I removed it & have taken a number of the resistors & capacitors out to check on a meter, they're working as far as I can tell. So far its proved fruitless & the surface mount technology is a bit beyond me so has anyone got an idea what to look for? And if need be the possibility of buying a new one... Thanks 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slimg60 0 Posted October 23, 2007 Does the spoiler move using the switch or the relay just clicking? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ginger60 0 Posted October 23, 2007 Spoiler moves manually & relay clicks inside the box as it goes up and down mate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
__Andy__ 0 Posted October 23, 2007 similar prob with mine, theres power to it and it raises with the switch in the dash but wont come back down!! if i manage to get it fixed then ive got a spare working spoiler control unit you can have if need be Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ginger60 0 Posted October 23, 2007 Nice one thanks mate! How much...? Incidentally if I get a chance I would like to investigate the resistor change that makes it raise at 64mph... but sort it out first lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
__Andy__ 0 Posted October 23, 2007 will try and get mine sorted this weekend, and then if i dont need it then we will sort sumthin out, alternatively try flea bay im sure i saw one on there.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JMC 0 Posted October 24, 2007 Something else to check folks - spoiler problems are often caused by dirt building up in the rods that push them up and down. before ditching your control boxes, it is worth cleaning and regreasing the runners completely. I did that with mine and the system now runs smoothly again. Takes about 2 hours to get the damn thing out though, as it is firmly intertwined with the boot lock and rear washer piping. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ginger60 0 Posted October 24, 2007 Thanks for the advice I havent given that a thought, do you think the excess friction causes the control module to malfunction? I was chatting to a mate today and we found a 'Zener Diode' to be a bit burnt so we are going to replace it to see if it works after. Apparently its called a BZX85C 7.5V type or something ... yawn... Got a quote on a new unit from the VW stealership its £72... borderline ouch...? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JMC 0 Posted October 24, 2007 Usually the excess friction will cause either the motor to burn out, or the fuse to blow. I would have thought it would have be unusual for bits on the circuit board to go. Although if someone used a fuse that was too large, that might cause it. Good luck with it, and don't buy a new one, there are always cars being broken on here, and you should be able to get one for £10-15. Cleaning the gunk out of the tubes will make it run smoother (the grease gets full of muck over the years), but they are fiddly to remove - there are some captive nuts which usually shear off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ginger60 0 Posted October 26, 2007 Ok thanks for the advice mate i'll try that tomorrow ;o) Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites