boost monkey 0 Posted April 27, 2008 lol thanks matey but there's tons of people on here who know more than me. Continuity tests are just a check between two ends of the same piece of wire: if the wire has no breaks in it then the multimeter buzzes or beeps. VERY handy! I'm unsure how you managed to check a bad idling system without doing continuity on the wires: When I had to diagnose mine back in Feb, I literally buzzed ALL the terminals on the ECU connector through for continuity and even some of the fusebox ones! :shock: It's just a piece of mind thing, kinda like how you check all the fuel lines when you're suspecting a fuel delivery issue. Glad you got it sorted though. 16v Vac pipes can be so fussy! :bad-words: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 28, 2008 Great thread chappie! Had to replace plastic thingy to cure mine cutting out /badly idling at the lights, now just need to find cure for other misfiring problems,bugga! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
larkin 0 Posted August 31, 2008 ok, my 16v was parked up for the last 3 weeks waiting for parts and when i started it up it wouldnt idle. Needed to keep it above 1000rpm with the throttle or it would cut out. Checked the 3 pin connector from throttle body, that was ok, so figured it must be a stuck ISV. To fix i kept my foot on the accelerator to keep the her above 1000rpm and got my dad to keep tapping the ISV repeatedly with a little bit of wood. This freed up the ISV and now its idling properly again. Gonna take off the ISV when I get a chance and soak it in carb cleaner to make sure it doesnt sieze again. This fix may be worth a try if anyone else has a non idling 16v... ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
