aclwalker 3 Posted November 5, 2007 I'm going to be replacing CV joints and front wheel bearings soon and there's a number of points I'm unsure about. 1 I've done a search and can see no reference to the hub nut torque for the VR6 engine. All I can see is 265Nm, but Bentley says "90Nm plus 1/8 turn" for the VR6 and 265Nm for other engines. 90Nm seems very low to me, as Bentley even says that wheel nuts are to be 110Nm. It's a 12 point nut though for the VR6 so it seems it might be quite hard to undo a 265Nm 12 point nut without rounding it off. Are non-VR6 Corrado hub nuts 6 point nuts? What do you think about 90Nm for a hub nut, like what Bentley says? Does the locking compound mentioned for the splines maybe allow for a lower torque? 2 What is the locking compound for the splines that go into the hub? Is it just locktite or is it some specialist material? 3 Is there anywhere that a full driveshaft can be bought? Euro car parts list driveshafts for £185 (plus VAT and a £30 exchange fee), but they never have them in stock so presumably they don't do them any more. 4 I know most people take their front wheel bearings to a garage to get them pressed in, but I am likely to be needing to do a number of these (on my Corrado and other VWs) and so a tool like the Schley 63500 or the Sir Tools B90-VW look good as they allow bearings to be removed and installed in situ. Does anyone know where these tools can be bought in the UK? Anyone got any experience of using these tools? 5 I'm also thinking of doing my springs. I understand that there are about 3 different springs for VR6s, but, given the same top cup sizes, does it really matter which of the 3 sets you put on? My springs are quite badly corroded and so I can't see the paint marks anymore. I'm not really sure where they are either. Surely as long as all springs are the same, and the cup and mount sizes are correct, then which of the 3 springs you get doesn't matter? 6 One of my strut bearings is sticking such that it clicks round when steering rather than going smoothly. I got a specialist VW garage to replace these (along with shocks) a couple of years ago and the strut bearing has failed already after a very low mileage. Does over-tightening or under-tightening do this? EDIT: 7 I noticed on another web page (sorry, forgot the link) that there should be a heat shield between the driver's side inner CV joint and the exhaust. I don't appear to have one. Should there be one? If this is missing, could it cause the CV joint to fail prematurely due to heat. I am getting a now massive clicking on acceleration and now when letting off the throttle but it's quiet when the engine is cold. It only seems to come on once the car is up to temperature, but it is now doing it pretty much all the time once it's heated up and it definitely sounds like it's coming from the inner. There's no clicking on full lock. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aclwalker 3 Posted November 5, 2007 I know it's poor form to reply to your own thread, but http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?p=26545&sid=8d35cc5796376a0554876d64fb9b9143 also confirms the 66 lb/ft (90Nm) for the VR6. I wonder if there's a lot of VR6s with over-tightened hub nuts. The Bentley manual isn't that great in this respect as the first diagram has the 265Nm figure, but doesn't make it clear that is for non-VR6 models. Only further on do you see a VR6 diagram with 90Nm on it and even that isn't labelled too clearly as being VR6 specific. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Taggart 0 Posted November 5, 2007 Bentley is wrong, my hub was wobbling at that setting, and it contorted the bearing carrier. We did it up effin tight, basically as tight as we could :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted November 5, 2007 We did it up effin tight, basically as tight as we could :) No No No!!! Late VR's only need to be done up to 50Nm + 30 degrees with the car off the ground, anything more and you could damage the bearing! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted November 5, 2007 Install Instructions from the Vag manual (for cars april 94 on I think) Remove any paint residue, bonding agent residue and or corrosion on threads/splines of the outer joint. Fit drive shaft. Guide outer joint into wheel hub splines as far as possible. Fit 12 point nut and pull outer joint into the wheel hub until the outer joint is in position. Connect ball joint to wishbone (35nm, bolts on old marks) Fit inner joint and tighten bolts to 45nm. Coat surface of twelve point nut with oil and screw on as far as possible. Lower vehicle, but ensure wheels do not touch the ground Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Taggart 0 Posted November 5, 2007 Ah, mine's an early VR. There was no way it was tight enough, the hub was wobbling all over the place, I'd been doing 130+ with a wobbly wheel :shock: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aclwalker 3 Posted November 5, 2007 Install Instructions from the Vag manual (for cars april 94 on I think) Supercharged, thanks for your answers. What is the "vag manual"? Is this what the workshops get? My car was first registered in March 1994, but I don't know when it was made. Is there a way of finding that out? EDIT: Does that make mine an 'old' or 'new' VR6 in terms of hub nut torque? Also, xbones said that it was the 90Nm setting on his that was too loose, but it looks like that's the 'maximum' setting for a VR6. This is really very confusing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
