chimo 0 Posted March 15, 2008 Alright I've been at this for a day and a half an can't seem to bridge the gap. My ISO lead was wonderfully hacked out by one of the past 8ish owners. Generally not a problem. However this being a Corrado, things aren't allowed to be easy. In the ISO plug I'm concerned about the main wires, not the speaker wires. From reading online on many sources I've found various diagrams.None seem to fit my car. So what I've got is a blue and white, thick red/white (constant 12V), black, blue/grey, thick brown/red, and thin brown/red, as shown below The problem is that I don't seem to have a swithed on lead. when tested with the multimeter, nothing but the illumination gains. As well, I thought that this would have been the thick brown red, but I removed the steering column to see if it was connected and found the thin red/brown connected to the ignition and going towards the fusebox... getting annoyed Quite confused at this point. Looking for some insight on this one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
12 DEG BEN 0 Posted March 15, 2008 Mate, looks like a real mess but I saw you sort out the DDI gauges for dom so this should be easy peasy surely. Did you sort out your handbrake issue? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chimo 0 Posted April 4, 2008 OK... still not getting this... is there another fuse other than the radio fuse in the fuse panel and the one in the back of the head unit? Is there another one buried in the dash somewhere? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted April 4, 2008 I did this with mine and found one of the wires wasnt used (??) just left it not connected. I think it was the blue/white one (the one you have on the left of the right bunch) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted April 4, 2008 Isn't the blue and white wire the speed reference signal for the automatic volume control? IIRC it's the one people often confuse for an aerial booster cable and stick 12v down, resulting in a non-functioning automatic spoiler. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted April 4, 2008 Isn't the blue and white wire the speed reference signal for the automatic volume control? IIRC it's the one people often confuse for an aerial booster cable and stick 12v down, resulting in a non-functioning automatic spoiler. Yeah i think thats the case bcstudent. Isnt the solid blue one the ariel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chimo 0 Posted April 4, 2008 they might be connected... old photo, but at the same time I have no igintion 12V.. wire isn't doing anything. So looking for a fuse that's not in the fuse panel or on the back of the head unit? anyone? does such a fuse exist? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lizard Racing 0 Posted April 4, 2008 There will be another fuse for the switched live in the fuse box, you will need to pull every fuse out and visually check it will most likely be a red or blue one. Failing that why not splice the red and yellows together from the permenant 12v? Just remember to turn the unit off when you get out. The orange is illumination which Im surprised you are using. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valerian 0 Posted April 4, 2008 Power cables should be:- blue/white = Speed sensor feed brown/red = Ignition live black = +12v to aerial amplifier (switched feed from head unit) grey/blue = illumination feed (to turn on head unit illumination when the lights are switched on) red/white = permanent live brown = earth and the speaker cables are as per diagram :- Common reason for the ignition live not working is faulty ignition switch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted April 4, 2008 If the worst comes to the worst, you can pinch a switched live from the heated rear-window switch nearby. Not exaclty ISO, but it's a hefty circuit and can handle the small extra load. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chimo 0 Posted April 5, 2008 If the worst comes to the worst, you can pinch a switched live from the heated rear-window switch nearby. Not exaclty ISO, but it's a hefty circuit and can handle the small extra load. That's not bad...:) see I don't want to do the constant, well, just cause I'm me. regarding the ignition switch, if it were failing... my fan wouldn't work on accessory though right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timg60 0 Posted April 7, 2008 I have the same problem, My ignition switch is faulty and I replaced it with a push button about a year ago. The stereo has always had a mind of its own and switches its self on and off at random. I know the permenant live is good as the ciggy lighter is off the same circuit ( it is moved to the glove box so took another feed). Would the fault lie with the ignition live as I used to be able to wiggle the keys and it would come back on. Although this dosnt work anymore. If I was to change that feed to the heated rear window swith would it cure it? Would be nice to get to the bottom of this one :help: Tim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timg60 0 Posted April 7, 2008 Could anyone shed light on which wire is the ignition live on the heated window switch :help: Tim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chimo 0 Posted April 7, 2008 I bit the bullet and hooked up the constant 12V method... will likely replace the dash loom... there's snipped wires down ther that I don't have a clue about. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timg60 0 Posted April 7, 2008 I bit the bullet and hooked up the constant 12V method... will likely replace the dash loom... there's snipped wires down ther that I don't have a clue about. I know what you mean mine is like spagetti junction and I havnt helped either with all the other bits and bobs I have added. I really get quite scared that she will self combust at some point :roll: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
