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winchbietch

VR6 THERMOSTAT UPGRADE

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Have heard of a upgrade for a standard thermostat, suppost to open earlier around 70 degrees rather then 95!

 

Is this true/available....who by??

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I really dont see the point, on fast road or track use the thermostat will be fully open whether its a 70 or 95 anyway.

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People usualy only install these as a precaution to keep things cool when stuck in traffic I'd imagine?

Can't do any harm really....

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Well, the car can take longer to get up to temperature, and the engine was designed to run with the stat opening at 87 degrees or whatever it opens at. For general fast road use, just ensuring that your cooling system is in full workign order should be sufficient.

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i always worry that if you fit a lower temp stat that the engines ecu tempurature sensor will be reading the water at 70 instead of 90 which is a lot in terms of ecu control, effectively the ecu will be supplying slightly more fuel to the engine umongst other things as it is having a lower reading , just my thoughts on it .

 

i am off to :sleeping:

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Paul 20v - spot on. The car will very rarely get out of 'cold map', so will be effectively, on choke the whole time. I had one for a few months- brilliant drop in oil temp- 10-15 degrees! However, fuel consumption went down around 4mpg. Have also heard horror stories of the excess petrol washing oil off engine internals, thus hugely increasing wear after a while. Personally, I wouldn't bother.

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IIRC the OEM stat opens at just over 80 degrees and I'm fairly sure this is marked on the stat body.

 

I considered fitting one of the neuspeed 70 degree stats when I had to change my stat housing but decided against it. The lower opening temperature just causes the engine to take slightly longer to get up to running temp. Once the engine is at running temp it's unlikely to drop below 80 degrees anyway (particularly on a VR, mine is never normally below 85-90) so there is no real benefit after initial warm up.

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I have just fitted one on replacing the thermostat housing.

so on reading this i`m gonna keep an eye on things to see how it goes. :o

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IIRC the OEM stat opens at just over 80 degrees and I'm fairly sure this is marked on the stat body.

 

I considered fitting one of the neuspeed 70 degree stats when I had to change my stat housing but decided against it. The lower opening temperature just causes the engine to take slightly longer to get up to running temp. Once the engine is at running temp it's unlikely to drop below 80 degrees anyway (particularly on a VR, mine is never normally below 85-90) so there is no real benefit after initial warm up.

thermostat is only a posh gate for the rad so if your driving round in the winter with a 70 stat then you are going to get roughly that , summer will be different of course , try driving round without one and see how your temp gauge stays really low all the time, unless you are in traffic ,

i am not saying the vr is the coldest running engine i have ever owned but i would not say with the cooling system up to scratch there is an issue either , those with really hot engines ie. over 110 water temp try getting a new rad you will be astonished how unefficent an old rad gets.

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those with really hot engines ie. over 110 water temp try getting a new rad you will be astonished how unefficent an old rad gets.
tbh i think water pump would be my first choice to fix but then obviously both would be better! i didn't use to pay as much attention as i do these days but i could have sworn my temps went up after my new rad - if i'm on a 140k water pump (given the state of some i've seen that have been replaced) then i'm tempted to think that is the cause of my high temps instead.... :scratch: :)

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those with really hot engines ie. over 110 water temp try getting a new rad you will be astonished how unefficent an old rad gets.
tbh i think water pump would be my first choice to fix but then obviously both would be better! i didn't use to pay as much attention as i do these days but i could have sworn my temps went up after my new rad - if i'm on a 140k water pump (given the state of some i've seen that have been replaced) then i'm tempted to think that is the cause of my high temps instead.... :scratch: :)

 

I changed my rad at the end of last year due to a leak and didn't notice any change in temps. Providing the car has always been filled with the correct coolant then the internal channels of the rad should stay clear in good condition.

 

Obviously if you have any blockages/restrictions or if the fins are blocked then you will see a difference with a new rad.

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those with really hot engines ie. over 110 water temp try getting a new rad you will be astonished how unefficent an old rad gets.
tbh i think water pump would be my first choice to fix but then obviously both would be better! i didn't use to pay as much attention as i do these days but i could have sworn my temps went up after my new rad - if i'm on a 140k water pump (given the state of some i've seen that have been replaced) then i'm tempted to think that is the cause of my high temps instead.... :scratch: :)

 

I changed my rad at the end of last year due to a leak and didn't notice any change in temps. Providing the car has always been filled with the correct coolant then the internal channels of the rad should stay clear in good condition.

 

Obviously if you have any blockages/restrictions or if the fins are blocked then you will see a difference with a new rad.

not everyone is so fortunate and a lot of people dont realise the importance of antifreeze as a rust inhibiter , i see a lot of naff rads and cooling systems in my job :(

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Sorry to dig up an old thread but........

Ive just got a Neuspeed thermo and fan switch today.

Does anyone know where the fan switch is on the engine?

My mate who is fitting it cant think where exactly it is.

Also, got the connector kit just in case. Is it needed?

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Just to throw my 2p in....

 

I have done these, both the fan switch and thermostadt and fully recomend them!

 

But.... Its only worth doing if your experiencing high temps, my oil temp used to see 115+ when giving it the beans but since the upgrade I havent seen higher then 106.

 

The cold map arguement is a valid point but from experience, even on a freezing day going round the M25 the temps dont drop enough to revert to cold map.

 

In terms of MPG, I cannot comment here, I changed my fan switch and thermo after fitting my supercharger and MPG is completely dependent on how heavy my right foot is :)

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