Bally 0 Posted May 12, 2008 as above, big thanks to davidwort for giving up a lovely sunday to work on my damm corrado.. basically we replaced the worn waterpump & thermo, but it seems the car runns even hotter than it did?? water temp nearly hitting 110 & the oil temps hitting 124plus? oil pressure is fine, been tested, changed the oil pressure switch abt a month ago.. ive done a head rebuild abt 2k ago & oil pump, sump gasket, oil cooler & HG... any ideas peeps? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted May 12, 2008 Is it boiling up? fan should cut in at 105 i think Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bally 0 Posted May 12, 2008 Is it boiling up? fan should cut in at 105 i think the fans kicking in after the halfway mark on the temp guage, its just getting hotter alot quicker than it used to for some reason... there was alot of air bubbles when we was bleeding up the system... i asumed it would run alot cooler with a new pump & thermo... oil temp seems to get rise alot quicker then it did... ive fitted a new oil cooler too lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted May 12, 2008 Hmmm, 16v's are notoriously hard to bleed. Could be a bit of air lockage! I found that mine ran hotter after replacing the pump and stat too. I found it ran cooler with less G12 in it :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bally 0 Posted May 12, 2008 Hmmm, 16v's are notoriously hard to bleed. Could be a bit of air lockage! I found that mine ran hotter after replacing the pump and stat too. I found it ran cooler with less G12 in it :? I hope it is a airlock.. althought we did get alot of them out.. weve stuck in 2 bottles of G12 coolant... still finding it stranger why it running warmer though.. are there any other oil/water sensors on the back of the block? as a friends just mentioned it to me?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted May 12, 2008 I think there is a sensor on the on the back right hand side of the block. I think that is the sender for the oil temp IIRC :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted May 12, 2008 Bally sent you an e-mail, but I reckon it could be the rad fan switch, just seems odd how hot the water was coming out of the rad at the bottom hose to the engine, it should have cooled down more than that now I think about it, the mk4 has a big old rad but the water coming out of the bottom of that is much cooler than going in at the top - obvious I know! as for the air lock, not sure we added at least 4 litres of coolant and there was probably a fair bit left in the system, the top and bottom hoses were definitely full of water as a lot bled out when we filled initially, are the heater matrix hoses both hot, if so then water is running through those too, I'm doubtful there's much air in there TBH. how does it drive with the ignition timing right? I'm sure it was on about 15 degrees at idle before yesterday! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bally 0 Posted May 12, 2008 I think there is a sensor on the on the back right hand side of the block. I think that is the sender for the oil temp IIRC :? The sender might be the problem causing the oil light to flicker.. the gauge readout is sitting below 1bar, so somethings not right.. oil pumps been replaced, so has the pressure switch... Bally sent you an e-mail, but I reckon it could be the rad fan switch, just seems odd how hot the water was coming out of the rad at the bottom hose to the engine, it should have cooled down more than that now I think about it, the mk4 has a big old rad but the water coming out of the bottom of that is much cooler than going in at the top - obvious I know! as for the air lock, not sure we added at least 4 litres of coolant and there was probably a fair bit left in the system, the top and bottom hoses were definitely full of water as a lot bled out when we filled initially, are the heater matrix hoses both hot, if so then water is running through those too, I'm doubtful there's much air in there TBH. how does it drive with the ignition timing right? I'm sure it was on about 15 degrees at idle before yesterday! Thanks for yr email mate yes after speaking to you & mate at auto-werks convinced the switch isnt working at 2nd speed... so like you mentioned will try the earth & wire to the batt to see if it works etc... its drives ok.. but still seems abit slow on pickup... maybe its time for big power :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted May 12, 2008 Maybe you put in too strong a mixture of G12+ especially for the heat this time of year? Someone said to me that too much G12+ in the mixture with water can work against the cooling system and in fact makes the car run hotter..... worth diluting the mixture down a bit? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted May 12, 2008 I was thinking that. 2 bottles of G12 would be 3 litres and approx 50/50 mix? You won't need anything higher than 30/70 coolant/water in this climate. Worth draining some out and putting some water in I'd say, as per Jim's suggestion. :salute: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted May 12, 2008 Maybe you put in too strong a mixture of G12+ especially for the heat this time of year? Someone said to me that too much G12+ in the mixture with water can work against the cooling system and in fact makes the car run hotter..... worth diluting the mixture down a bit? That's what I discovered with mine too. As the Monkey says 30/70 coolant/water should be bettererererer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted May 12, 2008 Don't get me wrong, I used to run 50/50 as a good all-year round balance but 50% coolant will protect down to temperatures England will never reach, and will rob cooling units* away from the water, which can cool better. * I have been doing Thermo revision from 9-4 and I can't explain this further without losing the will to live :brickwall: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hipflask 0 Posted May 12, 2008 hi there new here but interested in this thread since my 16v has never been the same since an emergency garage changed the radiator a few months ago - runs hot real quick then when moving again cools down ok. so keen to follow some of the advice from you guys. by the byes, great forum :clap: :clap: :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted May 12, 2008 hi there new here but interested in this thread since my 16v has never been the same since an emergency garage changed the radiator a few months ago - runs hot real quick then when moving again cools down ok. so keen to follow some of the advice from you guys. by the byes, great forum :clap: :clap: :clap: classic symptoms of a cheap aftermarket rad, the 430mm rad for the 16v is a 16v specific part, many of the pattern 430mm rads are intended for small engined carbed mk2 golfs and have far fewer cores than the genuine 16v rad even though they look identical at first glance. Basically if the rad you bought was around 50-60 quid it'll be the wrong one, the correct part is around £120 from VAG. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hipflask 0 Posted May 13, 2008 classic symptoms of a cheap aftermarket rad, the 430mm rad for the 16v is a 16v specific part, many of the pattern 430mm rads are intended for small engined carbed mk2 golfs and have far fewer cores than the genuine 16v rad even though they look identical at first glance. Basically if the rad you bought was around 50-60 quid it'll be the wrong one, the correct part is around £120 from VAG. cheers for reply david she is due in for a full pad and disc change this month (cant really complain, 6 years and this is the first work on the brakes) so will try and find some extra cash for new rad next month. on another point, have you had any experience of aftermarket exausts? 2 years ago I had to get a full system replaced (sensor went and each section blew one after the other) since then I have had no end of problems, with the centre box now about to be replaced for the third time on the guarentee - give up and go stainless? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted May 13, 2008 Yeah - probably a good idea to do that. Magnex systems are very highly rated on the Corrado. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bally 0 Posted May 13, 2008 cheers all... ive used 2 1.5L G12 vag coolant & mix of water... its been fine in the past... I found alot of air in the system & tried to get most of it out lastnite.. seems abit better than y'day... gona keep an eye on it... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
