Cooling a 2.0 16v - rad fan (new switch fitted..)

[Jim 1]

Speaking of earths.. could anyone show just where the 16v should be earthed around the engine bay? Would love to check mine out for various running gremlins, but have no idea where to look or even what earths look like - I feel so stupid even asking but I really don't know what to look for, or where! :|

[davidwort 0]

there's not much to it Jim, there is usually a small black plastic coated flat (ribbon type) earth cable from the rear right cam cover bolt nr the distributor going up to the bulkhead nr the coil.

The other main earth is easy to trace back from the battery, it's a heavy multi strand round cable that bolts to the inner wing and then along to the gearbox, this one tends to suffer from corrosion where it bolts due to how exposed it is and the cam cover one tends to break through a combination of being removed when headgaskets etc are done and of course gets hot at the cam cover end and tends to have to flex a fair bit.

Worth checking the condition of the earth from battery to starter motor too, they can get a bit iffy.

[boost monkey 0]

definitelty worth checking Jim and not really a silly question I'd say. My old battery used to leak a bit and corroded the earth point just next to the battery / underneath washer bottle which didn't help overall car running.

[Jim 1]

Seeing as this thread has resurfaced, might as well say that my car is still cooking but I've not had to do any long drives since the problem arose so haven't been rushing around to fix it. Planning on fitting a fixed height steering column very soon though so when I go to VW to buy the bits, I'll be picking up a new thermostat as I'm convinced that'll have something to do with it.. if it does then I think I'm personally going to go and poo through the letterbox at GSF as just about everything I get from them fails!

[davidwort 0]

... Planning on fitting a fixed height steering column very soon though so when I go to VW to buy the bits...

 

 

let me know how that goes and how much VW want for the parts, particularly the outer tube,

I just picked up a polo column, lock etc at the weekend for a tenner and I have a new VW switch to go in it, all I need is the corrado tube now and an early switchgear column surround. I'm very tempted to use the polo tube TBH, it's much simpler in design with built in height adjustment, no need for a corrado style joint it just raises/lowers the whole column flexing at the bottom UJ, I'm going to investigate what's involved as I think it can be done by simply welding the top mounting plate from the corrado tube in place of the same sort of part on the polo one.

[boost monkey 0]

what's the benefits of changing the column, something else to go wrong? :nuts:

 

sorry, bad taste...!

[davidwort 0]

the bearings in the adjustable Corrado column can't be replaced and the height adjuster joint is a rubbish design and gets play in it, oh and Cheesewire says the fixed column is a fraction of the weight.

[Toad 0]

if it does then I think I'm personally going to go and poo through the letterbox at GSF as just about everything I get from them fails!

 

:clap: Call me for some tips on advanced letterbox soiling.... :)

[Jim 1]

what's the benefits of changing the column, something else to go wrong? :nuts:

 

sorry, bad taste...!

 

As David says, the upper UJ (not the one down the bottom) gets wear in it and causes slack in the steering. I've changed so much on mine now and still have it - and the UJ in the column is a prime suspect.

 

David - I've got a column off a Polo too so will be buying everything else. Hoping to go to Tempests one night in a week or two to price it all up / get part numbers and will let you know how much it cost, etc.

[renson 0]

Just wanted to say thanks for the quick replies yesterday, got it all sorted yesterday. It was the earth connection on the battery causing no power to the fan. Sorry to hear you still have problems jim, still mine may not overheat but i want your wheels.. :lol:

[boost monkey 0]

UJs can develop a lot of play so that's a good thing to look into.

 

Shame VW want £120 for a new one :cuckoo:

[Jim 1]

Sorry to hear you still have problems jim, still mine may not overheat but i want your wheels.. :lol:

 

Hehe.. well, when my car bursts into flames at the side of the road, I'll be sure that you get first dibs on the wheels - assuming the fire brigade come and put the car out quickly enough to save them.

[Jim 1]

Checked the earths today and they seem to be in good shape. Flat one running from near the distributor to somewhere up behind the ignition coil (looks like a game to get at!) and the much fatter one running from the starter motor up to the battery.

 

Had an interesting quirk when I started the car today - turned the key and it sounded like it backfired into the manifold or airbox or something as there was a noticably loud pop / bang - I immediately thought something had broken badly inside the engine but the car spluttered into life as if nothing was wrong. Hmm...

 

Starting to think a refresh of the manifold (and gaskets) as well as throttle body and injectors might cure some of my ills with weird idling problems. Was reading back through some of JBOB's posts about similar issues he had with his Valver and they pointed to the ISV. I know reading some posts from the previous previous owner of my car (sambo) that wiring to the throttle body was a bit iffy in the past and had to be patched up. Wonder how much a new throttle body is from VW.... :|

[Toad 0]

I might have a 9A tb... It's onyl got 2 micro switches on anyway.

[boost monkey 0]

Checked the earths today and they seem to be in good shape. Flat one running from near the distributor to somewhere up behind the ignition coil (looks like a game to get at!)

 

Should be. Mine attaches to the ignition coil 10mm bolt nearest the front of the car on the edge of the rain tray/scuttle seperator.

 

always worth greasing them up if you have a spare 5 mins. Earths not coils.

[keithabc216v 0]

as this has resurfaced and just been reading a few pages

has anyone mentioned the fan switch on top of the head

next to the oil filler its a one wire thermoswitch you can

test the wire with engine running by earthing on cam cover

fan comes on spade terminal broke on mine so got new switch

if youve done this sorry just a thought

[Jim 1]

I might have a 9A tb... It's onyl got 2 micro switches on anyway.

 

I've got one but it seems to have been damaged in transit. Where the throttle cable loops round onto the throttle switch, all the plastic was cracked and has come away - so it'd mean dismantling my other one on the car to fix it. If I broke THAT one then I'd be in the poop.

[Jim 1]

I might have a 9A tb... It's onyl got 2 micro switches on anyway.

 

I've got one but it seems to have been damaged in transit. Where the throttle cable loops round onto the throttle switch, all the plastic was cracked and has come away - so it'd mean dismantling my other one on the car to fix it. If I broke THAT one then I'd be in the poop.

 

as this has resurfaced and just been reading a few pages

has anyone mentioned the fan switch on top of the head

next to the oil filler its a one wire thermoswitch you can

test the wire with engine running by earthing on cam cover

fan comes on spade terminal broke on mine so got new switch

if youve done this sorry just a thought

 

Ooh.. no... need to look into this one! Not heard about this switch at all!

[boost monkey 0]

^^^ :shock: has been mentioned a bit Jim! albeit not in this thread...

[Toad 0]

I don't think you have that temp switch on the late 9As Jim, I think the fan control unit by the expansion tank replaces it.

[keithabc216v 0]

I don't think you have that temp switch on the late 9As Jim, I think the fan control unit by the expansion tank replaces it.

thermal switch / for models with towing facility / and / for models with radiator fan run-on / F >> 50-N-035 000

100C M10X1 1 pin yellow / KR,9A

(32) 281919369 part number

shows this on ekta for all years of 9a

[Toad 0]

I don't think you have that temp switch on the late 9As Jim, I think the fan control unit by the expansion tank replaces it.

thermal switch / for models with towing facility / and / for models with radiator fan run-on / F >> 50-N-035 000

100C M10X1 1 pin yellow / KR,9A

(32) 281919369 part number

shows this on ekta for all years of 9a

 

Fair enough.

 

I didn't think they had it due to the different electrics.

 

Anyway, it's only for the afterrun fan, not anything to do with fan operation whist the ignition is on. It's primarily there to keep the fuel lines from getting too hot, and only earths the fan when it's hot, so if the switch is faulty it will either not allow the run on or keep the fan running constantly when the ignition is off.

[keithabc216v 0]

i guess it takes a live from the relay

could that make it play up if duff or not connected

i guess its the right fan relay fitted should match the

numbers above part number i quoted

[Jim 1]

Well I changed that part anyway earlier today for another known good one and it makes no different - car still merrily sails up towards 100 centigrade coolant temperature before the fan will do anything.

 

It has to be the thermostat. Temperature in the rad is cool from driving around so the rad fan doesn't come on. Warm water trapped in the block from the thermostat not opening correctly? I can't think of anything else to change tbh! :(

 

At my wits end with it!

[Toad 0]

I did tell you... Hehe. Fair enough, good to make sure by swapping parts.

 

Change the thermostat just for peace of mind, it's not a huge amount of time or effort to be honest.

 

Mind you, it's pretty cold out, so the rad temp should be held fairly low while driving. Did you ever use Eric's thermometer?