Track / Tie Rod Replacement - Help! Is there a how to guide?

[tonytiger 0]

Had the vr in for MOT on Sunday - and it failed on a corroded brake pipe and both track ends. So, thinking the brake pipe would be the worst job to do (rear one that runs from passenger side to driver side over the exhaust) I did that first. It took me a while (never done brake pipes before) but I got there with my Dads help. So, then moved on to the track rod ends - passenger side one was no problem - really quick to do - BUT driver side one just won't budge. I just can't get the lock nut to turn - even tried using a blow torch (which perhaps just didn't get it hot enough). So I think I'm probably going to have to replace the whole track rod.

 

I've used the search but haven't found a definitive guide on doing this.

 

So, main thing I need to know is can it be done with the steering rack in place or does the rack have to come out like the Bentley manual says? And any special tools required other than 32mm spanner? Is the rod likely to be seized at the inner end too? Is it straightforward - or should I take it to the garage?

 

Appreciate any advice / tips on this.

 

Tony.

[tonytiger 0]

Found a guide to doing MKIII Golf/Jetta tie rods here

 

So looks like it can be done with the rack in situ - assuming there's sufficient space on the Corrado to access the inner joint - so I'll probably give this a go, weather permitting.

[Dec 1]

It's very tight for space, and is a [strike:1jx8nr3q]pretty[/strike:1jx8nr3q] very unpleasant job to do, due to it being nearly impossible to get enough access to get your hand or a spanner in there. But you can change the inner joints with the rack in situ.

[davidwort 0]

I like that tubular tool in the how-to above (t oget onto the inner joint hex), there just wasn't enough space to do it on my 16v with conventional tools, so we dropped the subframe to get better access, left the wishbones in place, so the subframe(with rack) just lowered about 20 cm, of course an engine support was used above to stop the whole thing falling out!

[tonytiger 0]

Davidwort - from what you've said - it sounds like it's not as simple as in that guide if you had to lower the subframe. Was hoping I wouldn't need to remove anything else - perhaps the garage will have to do the job after all.

 

But on the other hand, from what you've said Dec, it sounds like it is (just) possible. Guess I need to look at mine and see what I think.

 

Yes that track rod tool looks very useful - but not sure they're easily available over here.

 

Which threadlock should be used for this?

[davidwort 0]

I thought the 16v would have more room, but even if it has, we had the car up on a proper MOT/Garage ramp and access to a full range of tools and the only way we could get enough room to get a big spanner on that inner joint was to make more room by lowering the rack/frame a bit, perhaps it is possible without, but you have to have some pretty odd shaped spanners I reckon :)

[tonytiger 0]

Had a bit of luck with this last night - bought a new blowtorch and tried applying heat to the track rod end lock nut again, in the hope that it would free off and save having to change the whole track rod. And it did! :D I think the old blowtorch I'd used originally just didn't get hot enough - possibly not a fine enough/controlled flame.

 

So, for the time being at least, I'm not going to replace the track rods.

 

Thanks for the info everyone though - I guess I'll need to replace the rods at some point so will come in useful then.