G-Lader 0 Posted December 13, 2003 Can cambelt timing effect peak boost? What symptons are there if the cam timing's a cog or two out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted December 13, 2003 If the cam timing is out, boost levels will be affected FULLSTOP. Boost will be out throughout the range not just flat out. Have you replaced the cambelt recntly and now got no power? Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted December 13, 2003 Installation info Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G-Lader 0 Posted December 13, 2003 thanks.......cambelt was replaced when I first got the car but just had it rolling roaded and it only made 170 bhp with a hesitant power line,boost level was said to be just over 10 psi at peak (bearing in mind the charger is stg4 with 68mm pully). Austec racing changed the timing but this took ages as the dist. was stuck fast.......did not have time to check the cam belt but suggested this could be the cause. He said if there was a big boost leak he should have been able to hear it on the rolling road? Wanna take the car to a specialist like G-Werks or Pit Stop to check the charger system for boost leaks and more importantly the cam timing b 4 taking it back on the rolling road. Wont surprise me if the cam belt timing is a couple of teeth out as it was dome by Jabba.... Interestingly Austec suggested get their mapped chip to erradicate the hesitant / very un smoth power delivery - may well get this done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted December 13, 2003 170 bhp would not be achievable if the timing belt was even 1 tooth out. I doubt very much that this will be your problem. If you're still running the standard VW chip, the I'd be surprised if you see any more power. Check the DIY section of http://www.snstuning.com there's a few possible causes listed on there. What sort of bhp output were you expecting ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G-Lader 0 Posted December 13, 2003 Stevemac - no im running an off the shelf Jabba chip that was fitted with the pulley so the car could be as much as 10-30 bhp down considering the jetex exhaust,de-cat,K&N,Giro valve and fpr? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted December 13, 2003 Ahh - I should have read your tagline.. :clown: Well - cambelt ain't your problem. If it was 1 tooth out, your car may/may not run - it it did it would be like a "bag of spanners". It it was 2 teeth out then it wouldn't run at all. Jabba tend (in my experience) to adjust the cambelts far too tightly. This does affect the timing between the crank & camshaft slightly. Have the belt tension checked. Their chips also have a tendancy to overfuel (run too rich). I would contact Darren (g-werks) or Steve (pitstop developments) they both share the same premises & are not too far from you. http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5638 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted December 13, 2003 Is that crank or wheel HP? Can we take it that your p*ssed cos it is crank? I agrees with stevemac you would lose all your power if it was a tooth out. You can check the timing without tools, roughly anyway. Take the cambelt top cover off and set the crank to the TDC mark on the bottom pulley. The top pulley mark, should line up with the mark on the cam cover. It could be 180 degrees out so rotate the crank again and line up the mark. Lastly move the dissy cap, there is a notch marked in the body of the dissy, it is where the rotor arm should be pointing to number one cylinder. Your bad power delivery could be the ECU pipe is the wrong length? When was it last looked at/replaced. It needs to be a metre long, thats really important!!! I am surprised at your boost, 10PSI is not great. My stg 4 68mm pulley makes 1bar comfortably. It could be that you have a boost leak. The timing may need adjusting. Something else to remember is that a rolling road is the last place you will see good horsepower. The intercooler will get heatsoaked very quickly even with a fan cooling it. It is pretty impossible to replicate road conditions at a standstill. My Golf, 68mm pulley, stage 4, frontmount IC, reds, custom chip, 3.5BAR FPR, panel filter and decat-stainless system made 185 at the crank on a 28degree day. My intercooler must be nearly 4 times the size of yours. You could barely touch the intake side but the outlet was pretty cold. Yours would be mush worse I think. Those dissys can be a bas***d to move, I had to knock mine round with a chisel after soaking it with WD40. Did the Austec adjust the fuelling or any engine parameters? Cheers Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G-Lader 0 Posted December 13, 2003 thanks all,few things to think about like the length of the ecu vacum etc,etc.....next step to get it down to G-werks/Pit Stop. Sent Darren a pm so hopefully he will get in touch. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted December 13, 2003 That pipe can be a couple of cms short but over 5 will defo make it run bad. It should have a big loop under the scuttle tray, if not, its defo too short. It should be connected to the top outlet on the throttlebody too. Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G-Lader 0 Posted December 13, 2003 Gavin/Steve - thanks for the advice I'll let you know how I get on after it's been looked at by G-Werks...... Yeah the 170 was at the crank,think there s/be more to come if its set up right surely....... Suspect a few of the vacum hoses could do with replacing, I know when I replaced the fpr one that it was crumbling! No reasong to believe the others are any better I suppose. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted December 14, 2003 This might show if you have a vac leak Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
