marf497 0 Posted January 24, 2009 I've been having bother with my corrado it was loosing power revs would die then be ok now it turns over but no spark from the coil when I put the ignition on I get about 5v at the coil when I try and start the car I still get the 5v I thought it should pulse to give the spark for the coil also should it be 12v?? I took the connector of the side of the distributor (hall sender?) and probed the 3 pins and got no voltages on any the pins would i need to try and check this with the connector still connected to make the cct. Does this mean my hall sender is knackered does this give the pulse for the ignition coil. I also measured the resistance of the coil and the primary winding was 0.7 ohms and between the centre pin and the input pins I was getting about 6.96k ohms having a search on the net for coil measurements they look ok. I don't want to replace the coil if it is ok and the same with the distributor. There's no immobiliser on the car I removed it this morning incase it was causing my problem. I have also changed the ignition switch, plugs, leads distributor cap, rotor arm. And to top it all off one of my fuel pipes is corroded with lots of petrol spraying out. Any ideas and guidance to point me in the right direction would be appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marf497 0 Posted January 24, 2009 Just checked voltage from connector when connected with ignition on i'm getting 0v from white wire(top) 3.8v from green & red wires (middle and bottom pins) when I turn engine over i get 0.14v from white and 3.4v from other 2 wires. Also removed earth from battery to body and gearbox and gave the earth points a clean with a wire brush. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 24, 2009 Hello, I think it's the hall sender at fault but a good way to test is to get hold of a replacement and plug it it, turn the rotor arm and see if you get a spark (hold a lead close to the head) I think the hall sender is replaceable separately but usually it's best just to get a new dizzy as a complete unit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marf497 0 Posted January 25, 2009 Had another look this morning and with the connector for the hall sender disconnected and the ignition on (not trying to start car) i'm getting about 4v on pins 2 & 3 my understanding is that pin 1 is earth pin 3 is the input to the hall sender should be 5v and pin 2 is the output should pulse when car turned over and be 0v until the car is turned over. Does the input voltage come from the ecu ? I've also got the fuel pump off the car at the moment would this stop me getting the proper voltages? I tried to scan my car with Vagcom but it wont see my engine never had any problems before with scanning my engine (Start baud rate set at 4800) it still scans the ABS no problems tried my laptop on another car and it scanned ok. Does this mean my ecu is causing the problems. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted January 25, 2009 Had another look this morning and with the connector for the hall sender disconnected and the ignition on (not trying to start car) i'm getting about 4v on pins 2 & 3 my understanding is that pin 1 is earth pin 3 is the input to the hall sender should be 5v and pin 2 is the output should pulse when car turned over and be 0v until the car is turned over. Does the input voltage come from the ecu ? I've also got the fuel pump off the car at the moment would this stop me getting the proper voltages? I tried to scan my car with Vagcom but it wont see my engine never had any problems before with scanning my engine (Start baud rate set at 4800) it still scans the ABS no problems tried my laptop on another car and it scanned ok. Does this mean my ecu is causing the problems. Cheers. Mr Haynes says: disconnect wiring plug from output of coil connect diode tester between pins 2 and 3 on plug spin engine on starter, check LED flashes - shows hall working OK if no output disconnect hall sender plug, with voltmeter between outer terminals on plug, with ignition on should read at least 9V reconnect plug, pull back boot to expose terminals connect diode tester between plug middle terminal and batt +ve spin engine on starter, check LED flashes, no output then hall sender or ECU is FuBARed :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marf497 0 Posted January 25, 2009 Got another fuel pump and fitted back on my car only getting 4 volts going to the hall sender checked the wires back to the ecu and they are ok. Removed my ecu all the components on the board look ok nothing burnt out. With the voltage to the hall sender and the fact I can't scan my engine with vag-com I think it must be the ecu any ideas would be appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marf497 0 Posted January 26, 2009 Disconnected the ecu and I got 12v on my ignition coil instead of the 5v i was gettimg also tried disconnecting all the sensors near the metering head 4 or 5 of them and reconnected ecu back to 5v on coil and about 4v on i/p & o/p pins on connector for the hall sender should get another ecu tomorrow hopefully that will fix it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marf497 0 Posted January 28, 2009 Tried another ecu out of a 91 corrado 9a 2l 16v same part number except no CC on end still got the same problem I only get 5v on the coil and the connector on the coil bracket it goes to what looks like a big transistor any help would be apreciated if I had any hair left it would be getting pulled out. Has anyone got a circuit diagram of the ignition on this engine or what could cause no spark any sensors that would cause this. Cheers. Mark. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marf497 0 Posted January 31, 2009 Got it going thanks to the website links I got from someone from http://www.scottishvag.net/phpBB3/index.php I had a problem months ago with my external temperature sensor no earth on it and I just put an earth on it at the sensor end to get it working the sensor goes to the same connector as the ignition coil connector G1 on the back of the fuse box as soon as I seen that I knew that was where my problem was with that connector disconnected from the fuse box there should have been 0v to the coil I was getting 4v removed the next connector G2 and it went to 0v this was last night and ran out of light again. Went to it this morning reseated both connectors and got 12v on coil and car started first turn of the key. Thanks to bazoldskoolmk2 from ScottishVAG saved me lots of hassle. heres the links to the websites http://www.a2resource.com/index.html http://www.dubscene.net/eva2/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites