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kerrinmay

Early Heater Control Lighting

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Just had the heater matrix replaced by garage and now the heater controls aren't lighting up. My C is a changeover model with the older style interior. I'll probably have to go back to the garage for them to sort it, but wondered if it's an easy enough job then I'll take a look myself tomorrow.

 

Any ideas on how to remove the heater control panel, or can I get to check the wires from the stereo opening just above it?

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Yup ypou should be able to see from above, or just hook fingers in behind panel and pop off (after pulling off the Fan controller and two sliders).

 

Maybe that the bulb's gone, and if so it's a replacement panel I'm afraid, uless you're good with a soldering iron and maplins catalouge?

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Should the knobs just pull off? Any particular knack to getting them off? Does the panel then just fall away or are there clips etc?

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Managed to get the panel off ok and all seems to be connected. The illumination was fine until garage took dash out to replace the heater matrix.

 

Does anyone know how the other end of the wires are connected? Are they just part of the main wiring loom or could they have become easily disconnected?

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Not sure about the other end of the loom, sorry. But if you have a multimeter, see whether you are getting 12v out the end (it'll only be 12v with i) the headlights are on and ii) when the dimmer on the light switch is all the way up, as it's on that circuit). If you are getting 12v then chances are the bulb has gone. They are not designed to be replaced however it is possible :wink:

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When you take the panel off there will be 2 leads going into it. One for the rotary control, and the other will be 2 wires - one blue/grey and the other brown. This is the wiring for the bulb. Set the multimeter to the 20V DC range, and put the black lead in the Common socket, and the red lead in the Volts socket. Disconnect the bulb wiring plug from the heater panel, and put the red lead from the multimeter to the blue/grey on the plug, and the black lead from the multimeter to the brown lead. The blue/grey one should be live (+12V) when the headlights are on, and the dimmer is turned to it's brightest setting. If you are getting voltage from the wires, but the bulbs not working, then it's the bulb at fault. Hope that helps.

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Yup ypou should be able to see from above, or just hook fingers in behind panel and pop off (after pulling off the Fan controller and two sliders).

 

Maybe that the bulb's gone, and if so it's a replacement panel I'm afraid, uless you're good with a soldering iron and maplins catalouge?

 

Anyone have any instructions on how I could take the panel apart and solder in a new bulb or bulbs? Pics would be very welcome plus the type of bulb that I would need.

 

I rang the dealers a couple of weeks ago and the panel is now discontinued, so my only options are to find a second-hand panel with the illumination still working or to take mine apart and solder in a new bulb.

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Anyone have any instructions on how I could take the panel apart and solder in a new bulb or bulbs? Pics would be very welcome plus the type of bulb that I would need.

 

I rang the dealers a couple of weeks ago and the panel is now discontinued, so my only options are to find a second-hand panel with the illumination still working or to take mine apart and solder in a new bulb.

 

Once you have the panel out you need to slip a very sharp knife under all of the little tabs on the back (where the black plastic comes slightly over the white bit. Then the white section can be removed. The bulb will come out with it. As for the right replacment, best to check a Maplin catalogue and see which is the closest 12v match in terms of size. Drop me a PM if you want more details.

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Thanks for the advice. Do I actually have to 'cut' the tabs with the knife (which would result in me needing to glue the thing back together afterwards), or is it just a prising open job? Just wondering if I can open it up to take a look, work out what bulb to get, put it back together and then take apart again once I've got the bulb?

 

And one final question at this point, is there just one bulb in there?

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It is well and truely stuck together and was not meant to be dismantled, so yes, you'll have to stick it together afterwards. It fits together very well though, so you could remove and open it up and temporarily tape it back together while you sort out the bulb. There is just one bulb. When you have the white plastic bit off you'll see the bulb in a light brown holder. Push on the pins from the back and the bulb and holder should come out the front. Then you have the pull the pins out of the holder to release the bulb. They are tight, and you'll need pliers. As I say these weren't meant to be dismantled and put back together again.

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I've changed these bulbs a few times too, from what I remember you just need a standard capless dash illumination bulb (probably available from VW, my mk 4 golf uses the same ones in the heater panel) and preferably one with fairly long wire 'legs' to reach the connector pins they need to be soldered too.

Fiddly job, but quite easy really, you don't need to be expert at soldering :)

 

In fact I think I used a bulb from an old dash fog switch I had lying around, that happened to have long wire legs on, off an old audi, but VW ones are much the same.

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Thanks for all the advice. It was actually a very easy job to take the panel apart. I even didn't have to completely dismantel it to get the old bulb and holder out. With regards to separating the white piece from the black, I was able to carefully 'crack' it apart as it really wasn't overly stuck together, and that said I've managed to leave it partially still adhered and just carefully twist out the part where the bulb sits and then pop it out.

 

Interestingly I don't think that soldering is even going to be required by looking at the way the bulb is currently connected to the two prongs. There seems to be a small slit in the holder at right angles to the slot where the prongs push in, and the wires seem to feed through to this small slit and then the prongs just push back in and make contact with the wires.

 

Found a bulb that looks to be suitable in the Maplin catalogue so will go and pick one up at the weekend and see how I get on - FYI the code is WQ13P, however I'll post back once I have one to confirm if it was suitable and did the job.

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Yeah, the original isn't soldered - the wires are held in by friction against the pins. Good to hear that you've managed it :D

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Anyone advise what wattage bulb I should be looking at? Just realised that the one from Maplins is only 0.96w so not sure if this will be bright enough. Anyway I'll try and get one for now and give it a go.

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VW ones are 1.2W I think, have a look at the one in the ciggy lighter holder, should be printed on the old ones.

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One thing to bear in mind with the early heater lighting - even when working properly it is woefully poor. Just don't expect it to be lit up like a Christmas tree with the single bulb.

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One thing to bear in mind with the early heater lighting - even when working properly it is woefully poor. Just don't expect it to be lit up like a Christmas tree with the single bulb.

 

Yes I remember it was pretty dire before...well just so long as I can see the controls well enough that I can slide the correct slider in the dark then I'll be pleased!

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I have heater controls illumination :D

 

Very simple job...used bulb as previously mentioned (WQ13P - £1.29) from Maplins and wasn't even any need to solder...everything a push fit. That said, the bulb isn't quite as big as the size of the original so doesn't fit quite as snugly in the holder, however once the pins are pushed back in it doesn't really move about.

 

Haven't been able to test in the pitch dark yet but it's definately illuminating. As previously mentioned, I know that it was never all that bright originally, and the bulb from Maplins is only 0.96w so I could probably improve on that, however for now I think it's a job well done. Don't even really need to glue the panel back together because I was able to get away with only partially detaching the two pieces.

 

Certainly a job that I'd recommend...much more satisfying than throwing away my old panel and replacing.

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Well done mate :D Works out somewhat cheaper than a replacement panel then....

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