Erm.. whoops helps

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What a mk3 one? They don't do a corrado one do they?

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nah they don't do a corrado one specifically, but the mkII golf 16v is exactly the same engine - it's a red one 'VW Golf & Jetta' 1984 - 1992

 

in the meantime you may find this link helpfull, it's for a mkIII and mostly in german but a lot of common parts/ layouts http://www.vwmotorsport.com/vwcat/Golf3Katalog.pdf

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Think I have a mk2 one lying around! Just have to find it now :(. Do you know the procedure for removing the chain, cams etc?

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yeh cams removal is as i described above, the retainers are numbered and have to go back in their correct position

 

the cam belt is loosened by undoing the tensioner - this is a disc which is fixed internally but has an outer shell that spins just below and to the right of the cam gear which runs the back of the cam belt, mark the position somehow before you undue so you know for when repositioning when ur sorted

 

the chains just loops out when the cams are undone

[Wullie 1]

Thattached .pdf file might be of some assistance. Gives some detail on stripping and rebuilding.

 

Wullie

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Thanks a lot chaps. I'd be lost with out all this help! :D!

 

Anyway i've got the cams, drive chain and cam sprocket all out. About to check the lifters and if all is well i'm going to try find a tool to remove the head bolts and whip it head off

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O just a quick one before I get back to it. Should I drain the oil before I carry on? If I carry on stripping it will oil come out all over the place?

[Wullie 1]

If the engine is still in the car there shouldn't be much in the way of oil running around. Depends how far down into the engine you end up going. Personally I'd drain it anyway, never know what might come out along with the oil. Drain it through a sieve and have a look for wee dods of metal. If there's none give a little cheer.

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I didn't sieve the oil but the sump nut is magnetic so I checked that. Only a few tiny little fillings stuck to it. Took all the lifters out and checked them, they all seem totally fine. Do I take the valves out now or do they come out with the head?

 

Its beaten me for tonight, so I'm going to get cracking again in the morning.

[Wullie 1]

The head will need to come off before you can take the valves out. You will need the splined key to undo the cylinder head bolts.

 

First though, now the tappets are out you should be able to see the valves, springs etc hiding down where the tappets were. Have a close look at them to see they all sit at the same level, push them down with a dowel and feel if the all have roughly the same resistance to moving. If one moves easier than the rest it could be a broken valve spring..

 

Mark everything up to make sure they go back in the same holes etc. I use old fashioned bottled tippex a lot for this, it dries quickly and can be easily cleaned off when reassembling. Its also useful for marking the position of things that have to be replaced in the same position.

 

Drain the water if not already done.

You will need to undo the exhaust manifold if not already done.

Undo the head bolts in the following sequence, loosening each a little at a time

 

1 7 9 5 3

 

4 6 10 8 2

 

Once all the bolts are out you should be able to lift the head off. If it’s tight a persuasive knock with a wooden/plastic mallet should do the trick. DON’T jam a screwdriver between the head and block. You will probably get a bit of residual water splashing about the place, dry it up with some towelling

 

Once off you can turn the head over and have a look at the valve heads for any sign of damage.

 

To remove the valves you will need a deep reach valve spring compressor, beg borrow, steal or,as a last resort, buy one.

 

I normally do the next bit but it’s not compulsory, but I’ve found it makes thing easier.

Get a small block of wood which will fit inside the combustion chambers in the head. Place it inside the chamber and turn the head so that the combustion chambers are on the bench with the valve stems/collets upwards. Place a piece of rag over the valves that are supported by the wooden block and get a largish socket, place it over the rag and give it a sharp tap with a mallet. This should break the seal that forms between the upper spring seat and the collet. (I've done this but tapped a bit harder on other engines so that the shock pops the collets out of their seating saving having to use the spring compressor for removal. Wouldn't reccomend it on the Corrado. It demands more respect.) Do this for all the valves and then use the compressor to compress the spring and remove the collets. A screwdriver with a blob of grease on the end will help fish them out. As you do each valve assembly place all the components in a freezer bag or the like to keep each set together.

 

Now examine everything you’ve just taken apart and hopefully find the cause of your problem.

 

Check the face of the cylinder head with a straight edge or suchlike to check for warping. I keep a sheet of plate glass which I squirt with oil and lay it oily side down on the head. If the head is true there should be no air bubbles showing on the mating surfaces. Smash a shop window, they’re a great source of plate glass, or see your local glazier and ask if he has any scrap plate.

 

Hope this helps as it’s mostly from my fading memory. If I’ve missed something I’m sure someone else will point it out.

 

Wullie

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I think I love you! :lol:

 

I'm up to the point of removing the head now. Oil and waters all drained etc. Gave the head a wee tap with a nylon mallet but didn't budge so i'm going to get cracking again in the morning.

 

I'm sure I will be back soon with many, many questions haha

[Wullie 1]

Did you take the bolts out? LOL. Seriously though, check that you have undone everything connected to the head, alternator will need to come off, any wires etc. Mark everything, take pictures. If you disconnected the exhaust at the downpipe leaving the manifold on you can grab that and yank at it to try and rock it free. Patience and persistance is the key.

 

I'm heading off shortly to be a poet at the West End Festival in Glasgow and flog copies of my book, so will be out of touch, inebriated for a while. Post your progress and I'll try and log in where and when I can to see how you're getting on.

 

Where abouts are you?

 

Wullie

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Thanks mate.

 

I've unbolted and disconnected everything but it still seems pretty solid on there lol. I have unbolted the exhaust manifold from the block but I will unbolt it from the down pipe aswell to see if I can budge it any other way.

 

Found a few g60 lumps for sale if it is buggered under there so I mite drop something in with a bit more poke :D

[Wullie 1]

Try getting a couple of heavy lumps of wood. Use one as a fulcrum down through the engine compartment and the other as a lever against a convenient part of the head.

 

Heading off now. Good luck whatever path you take, you seem to have a surfiet of engines.

 

Wullie

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all good advice from wullie there :salute: and don't be afraid to be forcefull with the block :D

 

you can get valve spring compressors from halfords, you need the larger one for the deeper valve recesses.... hopefully your problem will be there, if not next stop will be the crank bearings/ shells imo!

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Well bugger going down to the crack lol. Don't think I could put it back together if I went that far lol. After I get the head off and check the valve, springs etc if I cant see a problem there i'll just tear the lump out. You will notice when I do that because there will be millions off new questions posted up :lol:

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Aha! Success! Well sort of lol. Got the head off checked all the valves, piston heads, and cylinder bores and everything seems totally fine!

 

Only problem I could spot was the headgasket. There is a break (looks as if its burnt though) at the closest point between cylinder 3 and 4. Would this be causing all the shaking, running and tapping issues?

[Wullie 1]

Just in suffering from a surfiet of real ale. Yup, that sounds as if you have found the problem. Probably best to get the head skimmed now and rebuild with new gaskets, head bolts etc. In my geriatric way I'd probably clean and polish everything as you rebuild. May fortune folow your spanners. Given the availability you have for other engines I would, if it were me, grab one and take some time to strip and rebuild one to the spec you want and when you have some free time swap it over. wouldn't mind doing that myself one of these days.

 

Good luck and happy Corradoing

 

Wullie

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Yer going to rebuild with all new parts as I go now. Looking to do a few little upgrades as I go. Shall report back with my progress :D

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that's great news you've found the problem :) good effort you being willing to get stuck in too

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Ordered the new gasket set, currently painting, porting and polishing :D

[Wullie 1]

Hope everything turns out OK. Just take time before you do anything. Sure everything will turn out OK.

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Thanks mate.

 

How can I double check the engine is at tdc before I start building it back up? Another thing that has been playing on my mind is the cams, when I put them in how do I know when they are in the right position (tdc)?

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the flywheel has a mark on it which is tdc, you can see this by removing a plug on the bell housing. there is also a tdc mark on the crank vibration damper at the other belts end of the block, both are at tdc when at 12 oclock usually marked with a little arrow/ V shape.

 

the cambelt wheel has a mark at 12 oclock on the front and at 3 oclock on the rear, theses need to be lind up to mark on cambelt cover V and to the level of cylinder head when cover is off.

 

the cams have two circles which need to be facing each other level with the cylinder head.

 

check it, check em and check em again :D

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seriously thanks mate :D