Alex's VR6

[elliott 10]

Invest in a magnetic sump Plug, any high millage car will have a little shrapnel lying in the sump but you don't want it getting picked up.

Edited September 30, 2011 by elliott

[monzablau16v 0]

Got this in the post yesterday... Can't WAIT to change mine over...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49415[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]49416[/ATTACH]

 

took me about 30 seconds trying to figure out why on earth you had bananas come through the post.... then scrolled down and realised they were the seat bolsters! I should bloody know as well - i got a new one sitting in the garage waiting to go onto my driver seat.

 

good job getting the car back on the road mate. As for the big bits of metal - are you 100% sure they are metal... lumps that big would make me wonder how the car is still running. Get a magnet on them to see. Also as mentioned, try and get one of the magnetic sump plugs, i have an ECS one

 

http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/product.php?xProd=6807&xSec=86

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Just spent 30mins changing the plugs and doing a compression test on the C.

 

I got the following:

 

Cylinder 1

Dry - 10bar

wet - 11.75bar

 

Cylinder 2

Dry - 9.5bar

wet - 11.75bar

Cylinder 3

Dry - 9bar

wet - 10bar

Cylinder 4

Dry - 9.5

wet - 10.75bar

 

and these are the plugs that came out

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49425[/ATTACH]

 

do you think that the lack of compression on no.3 is something that i should be worried about??:scratch:

[owen g60 10]

that would possibly suggest that no.3 is running slightly lean and beginning to wear the rings... i would check your injectors too at the same time

[boost monkey 0]

How are you getting over 10bar on the leakdown - your engine is only 8:1 compression ratio!

 

Did you mean psi instead of bar?

 

fact that every cyl jumped 1+bar between dry and wet might mean your rings are going. I know my 16v jumped a lot between dry and wet too.

[dannyboy 0]

compression is good alex,mine are about the same 11 bar hot. Whats the score with the wet/dry tests? you mean spoon of oil down the bore?

 

Standard G60 compression 8-12 bar

wear limit 6 bar. maximum 3 bar difference across cylinders

 

---------- Post added at 07:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:17 PM ----------

 

oh forgot.. get proper bosch w6dpo plugs in your engine man!they last longest and best plugs for g60

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

How are you getting over 10bar on the leakdown - your engine is only 8:1 compression ratio!

 

Did you mean psi instead of bar?

 

If I was getting 10psi i would be throwing the car in the bin as we speak! I'm running a 68mm pulley remember monkey, I'm going to see a higher than normal compression.

 

---------- Post added at 10:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:18 AM ----------

 

compression is good alex,mine are about the same 11 bar hot. Whats the score with the wet/dry tests? you mean spoon of oil down the bore?

 

Standard G60 compression 8-12 bar

wear limit 6 bar. maximum 3 bar difference across cylinders

 

the 3 bar difference surprises me! thats almost 45psi that my cylinder could be out by and still considered to be working fine... :bonk:

still It's nice to know the engine "seems" to be doing it's job ok. I was hoping for a higher pressure reading though... might be a symptom of my charger not being quiet so healthy...

 

oh forgot.. get proper bosch w6dpo plugs in your engine man!they last longest and best plugs for g60

]

 

That's what went on dude, Boch Super 4 w6dpo

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Just a we update... I've got the C booked into the garage for the track rod arms to be changed and the power steering pump to be adjusted with a new belt fitted.

 

In the mean time I have been amusing myself by changing the drivers side seat bolster. Took no more than 20mins and has made a sizeable difference to the comfort and look of the drivers seat.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49494[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]49495[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]49496[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]49497[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]49498[/ATTACH]

[boost monkey 0]

Ahhhh we have the same seats! I don't like the blue and green fleck. Want some of the black with purple flecks so I can colour coordinate! :camp:

 

so what's the plan with the block then? I think I had a slight aneurism when I asked about 10psi :lol: :/

 

Does the Bentley tell you what the borderline ffigures are for wet and dry compression for the block?

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Didn't think to look at the Bentley manual but Dannyboy above said 3 bar between cylinders is the threshold... I've got approximately 1bar across them all so I think she's running ok.

 

There's no specific plans for the block as yet tbh... The next big things to get done after the tracking and camber is:

1. service charger
   
2. secure tensioner pulley
   
3. full body spray (black magic I think...)
   
4. New 15" alloys with Yokahama Parada Spec 2 rubber
   
5. Second hand full size spare for my current alloys (that will become my winter wheels)
   

Edited October 4, 2011 by Alex_G60_Fanatic

[dannyboy 0]

Didn't think to look at the Bentley manual but Dannyboy above said 3 bar between cylinders is the threshold... I've got approximately 1bar across them all so I think she's running ok.

 

There's no specific plans for the block as yet tbh... The next big things to get done after the tracking and camber is:

1. service charger
   
2. secure tensioner pulley
   
3. full body spray (black magic I think...)
   
4. New 15" alloys with Yokahama Parada Spec 2 rubber
   
5. Second hand full size spare for my current alloys (that will become my winter wheels)
   

 

Your worrying too much about nothing alex!!Every engine will wear slighty uneven due to small natural differences like the rings,bores,valves,cams,shell bearings,etc

I share your worries as you would think 3 bar is a massive difference between cylinders but VW engineers set it at that limit for a reason.but id say the engine would run pretty lumpy if one cylinder was down by 2 bar and blownby would be pretty bad.

 

Are the bosch super 4 W6DPO platium?Originals use a platium single core.Dont think theres much probs using super 4s,they just wont last as long

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

I was worried before the test... I'm happy enough now. I was interested in doing the test as the cars was lumpy and I wanted to just check the condition. I'm happy enough with those readings tbh...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone you lemon!

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Took the C to the garage to get the following things sorted....

 

1. Track rods + ends changed

2. Power steering belt tightened up

3. tighten bolts around sump (the annoying ones that are hard to get to, next to the gear box)

 

Gave them the car at 9am as well as all the parts they needed (new belt and new track rods and ends)

 

I phoned them as i found out that I had to do an emergency call to a client and that i would need the car. So they popped the car back together, with only having done the drivers side track rod and charged me £100 cash. :(

 

SO i'm still am no further forward really...

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

It looks like my alternator has gone the way of the fairies...

 

Driving last night and the lights started to go... then the the fan... then the car stopped.

 

Got the RAC out and they charged the battery and got a multimeter onto the alternator. Started the car and was getting 18v then 4-6v then 18v etc... kept jumping up and down like a b*tch.

 

The RAC chap said that it's more than likely the voltage regulator playing up... but he did say that he has never seen an alternator behave like that before. Usually, when the voltage regulator goes it's just higher than normal voltage that increases with the revs... not jumping up and down like a yoyo.

 

So... i'm skint and i have no rado... again :(

[Rob_B 0]

yep sounds like the regulator. only a few quid from GSF

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

ooooh realy? I shall investigate!

 

---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 AM ----------

 

looks like £12 from GSF... worth a bash! I wont get it before the weekend though so the car is grounded until then... :(

[Supercharged 2]

Man you don't have much luck!

 

GSF ones are usually the wrong voltage so toy need to blip the throttle on startup to start charging - not at all ideal

 

Try and get a genuine Bosch one if you can!

[davidwort 0]

also sounds like the diode rectifiers playing up, which effectively means the alternator is scrap, worth a stab with a new brush pack though.

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

also sounds like the diode rectifiers playing up, which effectively means the alternator is scrap

 

What now? what crazy lingo you wise cracking with me?? Whats a Diode Rectifier?

[boost monkey 0]

Mate it will be the voltage regulator. Mine used to do the same. The whole dash would pulsate and would get brighter with revs!

 

Really sorry that has happened though. It's a shame you're so far away, I'd be more than happy to give you all these 4cyl parts I have kicking about.

 

Ditto bosch one on the reg though, they shouldn't be too much otherwise maybe get an exchange alternator?

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

 

Ditto bosch one on the reg though, they shouldn't be too much otherwise maybe get an exchange alternator?

 

cheers dude, I could sure do with the encouragement...

 

I'm getting a second hand alternator off a pal tonight in fact just so I can drive the car until I get a replacement. I may just save up for a new one though... although I'm kinda skint at the moment.

[boost monkey 0]

fair enough.

 

Remind me to rib you for taking your car to a garage to get the PAS belt tightened :lol:

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Remind me to rib you for taking your car to a garage to get the PAS belt tightened :lol:

 

hey hey! I tried to do it myself but the tensioner bolt was seized. I actually had a go again a few days ago after getting it back from the garage, The tensioner is set to it's maximum already... It wont tension any further than it already has.

 

I might have to try and find a slightly smaller belt...

[boost monkey 0]

fair enough :D you could do what I did and take the whole lot off and develop some serious upper body presence.

 

luckily i know how to put it back on again now so someone else will need to fight off Skeletor.

[Wild-Animal 0]

Hey for your power steering pump I found that you have to lossen all of the blots that hold the pump on. To move the pump itself. Even if one bolt was still tight it would not budge. Thats what I found with mine anyway. There are a good number of bolts to slacken off