ogg14 0 Posted September 11, 2009 Hi guys... I have a vr6 k-reg... Aqua Blue Pearl... My problem is that when switching my headlights on sometimes when switching to full beam and back again the main beam stops working... total darkness! Pretty scary! Pull the switch back and forth a few times and they will come back on eventually. This is happining pretty much all of the time now... Would this be the main light switch or the relay... I have purchased a new switch but not fitted yet. I also found that the drivers front fog light was total shot... The electrical connections were in terible state so i have disconnected this just now while my new one arrives... Any advice would be appreciated... What relay controls this and where abouts is it? Also... I have just got the car back from Ricki Gauld Tuning and it was only producing 168bhp and 140bhp at the wheels. I should be getting slightly more from a remapped car with a K&N Filter as well. The plugs were replaced and i have a new MAF coming tomorrow so hopefully this might help a little bit. I just felt the car wasnt pulling as it should have been and the MAF might be at fault. I average around 39 miles to the gallon... Any suggestions welcome... Many thanks Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaung60 0 Posted September 12, 2009 For your main beam problem just replace the indicator/main beam stalk. Easy to do and won't take too long. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted September 12, 2009 Also... I have just got the car back from Ricki Gauld Tuning and it was only producing 168bhp and 140bhp at the wheels. I should be getting slightly more from a remapped car with a K&N Filter as well. The plugs were replaced and i have a new MAF coming tomorrow so hopefully this might help a little bit. I just felt the car wasnt pulling as it should have been and the MAF might be at fault. I average around 39 miles to the gallon... That's exactly the power you'd expect from a car with a Cam sensor (G40) down - did they not do a diagnostic check? I would bin the K&N before fitting the new MAF too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ogg14 0 Posted September 12, 2009 Yes they did a scan... Only problem found was a ABS sensor faulty on the rear passenger side... I was told anyway... They did a electrical repair on the Lambada sensor... broken wires... I have fiited the MAF but i will remove the K&N Filter right now... but havent been on a run yet to test if it is pulling better... Are you saying i have a faulty g40 sensor... Maybe?? I so where abouts is this in the engine... and if it is faulty how do i check it was out scanning it or do i just replace it... Do you know who much one of there are and where do i get one Thanks Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted September 12, 2009 It's the camshaft position sensor but if it's that low on power then it would be completley dead and show up on VAGCOM... I'd see how the new MAF goes first and go from there... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ogg14 0 Posted September 12, 2009 Cheers supercharged... I dont suppose you have a p/number for the sensor do you... I might just go and order one for piece of mind... Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ogg14 0 Posted September 14, 2009 Right then... I went out to remove and check the crank sensor from under the engine. It was covered in some oil but wiped off but no visible damage was found, in fact it looked very shiny. The plastic seal was okay as well. I then removed the white electrical connector to see if there was any water ingress but no water or any other damage was found there either. Does anyone have a crank sensor for sale??? After i changed out the old MAF for the new one i found it to be slightly quicker in 1st and 2nd after a couple of days... sometimes!! Its maybe just me but sometimes it feels quicker and sometimes feels sluggish... I have ordered a new 2+2 lead for my vagcom (have genuine vagcom for my s4) and see what cades come up. I have read that sometimes the crank sensor doesnt come up with a code. Is there a resistance i can get off the sensor?? In the wet last week the car started to judder... I have tried spraying water over the engine bay (over sensors, leads and connections) but i cant get it to stutter at all. I runs fine... then after this morning. It wouldnt start first time after i cleaned the engine bay. I had to leave it for 30 minutes or so. I got it started again but it stuttered and spluttered for a while until it started to run okay again. Any advice would be much appreciated guys... Cheers Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ogg14 0 Posted September 15, 2009 Afternoon Lads... I have managed to get the headlights fixed this morning. The new stalk came in the post but that wasnt causing the problem. I had to remove the headlights and check the wiring. I found an extra switched relay in behind tha battery. It was in a really bad state. I renewed this and the lights are now working fine and dandy... so no more frighteners in the dark!!! I am going to have the crank sensor checked over by a machanic tonight so will update later on this side of things... hopefully he will find something... Also my 2 x 2 lead came today so i ran a scan. Only found the rear ABS sensor faulty. I will try and have a look at this sometime later on in the week... If i find the sensor faulty where is the best place... Genuine would be best i think!! Cheers for all of your advice so far guys... Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted September 15, 2009 Sounds like its got a uprated wiring loom for the lights fitted. I had this issue before, when water got into the relays and i put full beam on, all the lights just went out - sorry i didnt respond before, only just seen this post. Glad you got it sorted though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
