Lighting ashtray button

[t4slc 0]

i swear i have seen this mod done before, or does any one know how to do it? I originally thought it could be done using oem button, second look at the button proves its impossible, due to the back cover being black in color (no light gets through).

 

Cheers,

[VR6 0]

Why would you bother? What's the point?

[davidwort 0]

think I'd prefer downlight red LEDs like the Audis have

often thought about lighting the heater vent controls and door pulls, would be nice if the audi vent wheels with the inbuilt lights fitted but I'm pretty sure they don't.

[JMC 0]

Anything is possible. Just depends on how much work it is. I did some illuminated spoiler switches a while back (which are similar and not meant to light up). Meant making a new front for the switch and blending it in to the original. Then making the wiring look neat. Lots of work (and I mean hours) but some think worth it.

[t4slc 0]

Why would you bother? What's the point?

 

it looks a little empty having everything lit up but the ashtray :(

 

think I'd prefer downlight red LEDs like the Audis have

often thought about lighting the heater vent controls and door pulls, would be nice if the audi vent wheels with the inbuilt lights fitted but I'm pretty sure they don't.

 

now you gave me a challenge... corrado scrolls are white the only ? is are they clear enough on the back for light to get through. If they are, then all it needs are some 3mm LEDs if not well that is a challenge.... which could be solved after inspection of newer model design.

[JMC 0]

I also thought about doing the heater vent controls the same wy as the spoiler button (and I've also done the indicator stalk so that the icons on that light up). On the heater vents the white icons are simply printed onto the thick black plastic - they will not light up from behind. You could potentially thin them doing with a dremel - good luck.

[VR6 0]

Why would you bother? What's the point?

 

it looks a little empty having everything lit up but the ashtray :(

 

Sorry, just ignore me - grumpy mood!

[t4slc 0]

I also thought about doing the heater vent controls the same wy as the spoiler button (and I've also done the indicator stalk so that the icons on that light up). On the heater vents the white icons are simply printed onto the thick black plastic - they will not light up from behind. You could potentially thin them doing with a dremel - good luck.

 

really can you snap a picture of the stalk?

[JMC 0]

Here you go, about half way down page 3 of this thread....

 

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=74867&hilit=pointless+mod+ever&start=30

[t4slc 0]

that is very neat indeed. i have read through your how to script

 

Here's a quick outline of what is required. Get a coffee :wink: .....

 

Get a high res picture of the icons you are wanting to modify.

Into Photoshop and play around with it until you get a clean, black and white image, the right shape etc. You want black everywhere except the icons which should be white so it comes out clear (expect to spend about an hour doing this right).

Resize so it prints at the correct size, and print 4 copies on acetate, 2 normal and 2 reflected horizontally.

Cut out and leave a bit of black all around. Stick them back to back (hence the need to have 2 normal and 2 reflected) making sure they line up. Sticking them back to back protects the printed side.

This is hard as they are small. Then stick the 2 pairs together, so it is 4 layers thick.

Dremel/cut out the parts of the stalk you want to replace.

Line the inside with acetate, and a piece of white paper (helps diffuse the light and makes the icons look white when not illuminated).

Few layers of clear acetate, to bring up the height so it's fluch with the surroundings.

The icon sheet on top of that.

Filler round the edge. Dry, sand, fill, dry sand fill, etc iuntil its smooth.

Primer, sand, primer, sand. Paint, sand, paint, remove excess paint from the icons, lacquer.

 

THEN.....

Think about the lighting. Led's, ideally 120 degree diffused ones. Spend ages, bending leads, positioning, bending leads again so they line up. Do the contortionists act of getting them inside the bit needed, along with a resistor and wiring.

Make sure it still works.

 

You'll need, double sided tape, dremel, sharp (and mean sharp) scissors, filler, primer, black paint, lacquer, leds, wiring, power supply (for testing), soldeing iron, solder, insulating tape, tweezers, wire strippers, etc. etc.

 

As I say, it takes time. I've done a few mods like this now, and it took me 5 evenings to do that stalk....

 

and i have a question regarding acetate sheets. What color sheets are you actually using? all clear and then use a standard printer to print on it? Plus what do you mean by 2 normal and 2 reflected horizontally? Also would it not be easier to take a picture of the icon you are trying to Photoshop and then edit it?

[JMC 0]

Yep use normal acetate and then print onto it.

 

I used photoshop to create mirror images of the icons I was printing so that when I printed them and cut them out (and then stuck them together) the printed sides were protected by being stuck together. That way you end up with the unprinted side on the outside so there is nothing to scratch off. Also I found that just a single layer didn't stop the light from going through the black bits of the printing - that needed multiple layers (I used 4 in the end).

[t4slc 0]

Ok i had a little bit of confusion but i think i understand it now. I went around local stores looking for acetate, but no one seems to have exactly what i am looking for and don't understand what it is exactly that i am trying to do. In reality all i need to do is get clear label paper with a sticky back that can be printed on, correct?

 

Now to make sure i have got the process right, when you put the 2 sets of 2's together wont the top image still have an icon print on it? Plus you mentioned to place clear white sheet of paper on the back of the 4 layered assembly to make it look white when they are not turned on, correct?

 

What kind of spray paint did you use? Satin black spray bomb, textural? Plus i would assume that the only thing you would paint is the filler parts, correct?

 

I think that would be all the questions i am unsure of, at this point i have my little sister draw of the icons using a tablet (she's a pro using it) and then i will try it out.

[JMC 0]

Ok i had a little bit of confusion but i think i understand it now. I went around local stores looking for acetate, but no one seems to have exactly what i am looking for and don't understand what it is exactly that i am trying to do. In reality all i need to do is get clear label paper with a sticky back that can be printed on, correct?

 

Now to make sure i have got the process right, when you put the 2 sets of 2's together wont the top image still have an icon print on it? Plus you mentioned to place clear white sheet of paper on the back of the 4 layered assembly to make it look white when they are not turned on, correct?

 

What kind of spray paint did you use? Satin black spray bomb, textural? Plus i would assume that the only thing you would paint is the filler parts, correct?

 

I think that would be all the questions i am unsure of, at this point i have my little sister draw of the icons using a tablet (she's a pro using it) and then i will try it out.

 

You just need normal printer acetate - whatever your ptinter will print on. It's doens't need to be sticky - use double sided sticky tape for that. Yep, you are right about the paper on the back ot make it look white when the light is off. I used Halfords Stain black spray paint. Yes only painting the filler parts although I try an blend it into the edge of the acetate otherwise it just looks fake.

 

The top one should have the printing on it, but on the inside if you know what I mean (hence printing some back to front). If you have the printing on the exposed face it can easily get rubbed of.

[t4slc 0]

oh boy do i feel like an idiot. the whole time acetate aka film transparency was laughing in my face. i was unsure of what acetate actually was, but its transparency films that can be used for overhead projectors and can be printer or written on with a marker. guess UK and Canada have some word differences after all :clap:

[JMC 0]

Yep thats the one. No worries - I guess you are from over the pon then?

[t4slc 0]

yup over the big pond. i am gonna give it a try with vent icons first, as they seem to be easiest to draw out. Shouldn't be to hard, plus i think i found a solution to spraying the whole transparencies instead of just the filler parts, time consuming but it should work. my intention is to dip the finest paint brush into white grease and go over the icon. that way once i spray bomb the transparency and the color dries up after an hour or so i should still be able to wipe of the grease.

[JMC 0]

Good idea that - can you post up how it works out please - I never found a good way of doing it :D

[t4slc 0]

i'll post some pics up once i get it done. i figured i will use 4500mcp single led to illuminate both icons. with a hover custom l bracket out of lexan plastic plate. will be a while now i am running in between things so 1-2 weeks until i fully get it done maybe sooner.

[t4slc 0]

well i had some time today and thought i would jump to it and give a shoot. i started working on heater vents and everything seems to be working accordingly with exception of actually bonding the icons to the trim. biggest pain in the ars ever. do you have any tips on how to keep those suckers filler free and not moving around? i am seriously considering using hot glue on back of it >

 

plus a good time is definitely make the cut out a little bigger makes working on it a little easier.

 

here are the icons what i got:

 

[JMC 0]

In the switches I did I used double sides sticky tape and stuck them to the top surfaceof the switch. I then used filler to build up the level to the top of the acetate. On the stalk I did I actually recessed it slightly as the plastic was nice and thick. Again I used double sided tape. Worked fine for stopping it moving around.

[t4slc 0]

so you build up a full out layer, to be as thick as the plastic you cut out?

[JMC 0]

so you build up a full out layer, to be as thick as the plastic you cut out?

 

Pretty much yet - I blend it in, but basically the thickness on the switches was about 1mm thicker than before. On the stalk I set the acetate prinout into the stalk rather than on the surface, so it was only just sticking up, just enough to give a slight bit of filler around it to blend it in.

[t4slc 0]

right on, i have gotten around to doing a little bit more. it is definitely with out a doubt the most time consuming out of all my modes i have ever done. ill shoot some pictures sometime later this week/end with finished product. needles to say as a test run it does look pretty spify.

[JMC 0]

Yes, it is definately time consuming work. Look forward to seeing how it turns out.

[t4slc 0]

well i have tried using "filler" and it is not working for me, and i am not good with "filler". The icon can very easily be popped out from behind / makes really hard time for sanding and keeping icon scratch free.. I have now changed the way i will do the mod. I will make the icons wider few millimeters and then i will solder them into plastic housing around the vents for long lasting fix. which means this will take a lot longer then i expected. I do how ever consider this to be a very useful skill once i master it. Plus i can not seem to find correct paint for the trim. I have tried three different onces and they all look very different then original housing.

 

Second option is using poly urethane for windshield and quick dry/ clean finish. Then hot knifing the excess off.

 

Disaster in the making, bondo/filler just does not seem suitable for the job. :lol:

 

I will still how ever post all pictures of failed attempts and successful onces. I will return to destruction tomorrow.