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Josh Waddi

Possible Idle Issue, - Updated 12/04

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with a multimeter or test light you can check the micro switch is actually making a circuit, but you haven't said if your throttle cable is nice and smooth, is it old, after 10 years 100K not many operate properly, so much difference from a new cable and the throttle will be able to pull it closed easily.

 

does ISV vibrate/buzz when ignition is truned on?, if so then usually the worst that can happen is they will stick open a bit and sometimes revs hang too high at idle, throttle blips may then settle them.

resistance across ISV connector pins should be 3.5-4.5 ohms

ISV control unit could be knackered, it's above the fuseboard in the car.

you can also check the control unit by reading the curent (in mA) to the isv (need to rig up a bit of wiring to connect inline to ISV I guess)

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfisv-control-test.jpg[/attachment:vz1hai8j]

idle_switch_adjust.jpg[/attachment:vz1hai8j]

 

have you tried swapping over the sensor connectors on the RHS of the head, three are the same and feed ignition ECU, ISV circuit and dash water temp gauge, pull one at a time until your gauge drops, then you can use that as a known good one for the other circuits, they don't usually give trouble it's the wiring to them that corrodes.

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Ive checked the ISV and it vibrates when the ignition is on, i managed to get a tester for the electrics and no power was coming from the blue switch nearest the crank breather pipe. Should this have power when the ignition is on?

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do you mean one of the oil pressure warning switches on the oil filter bracket ???

 

Im not sure on which one you have mentioned. Its blue, its pretty much in your face when you look in the bay. Similar higght to the dixxy cap and nearest the front of the bay. Hpoing im making sense. Is this the blue temp sender? As mentioned before the temp gauge doesnt rise above 75'c. Should it have current flowing through each switch/senders when the ignition is on?

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senders on top of oil filter bracket are for oil pressure, need a big spanner (20 odd mm or so) the one on the leftmost cam cover bolt is a fan run on switch (yellow or sometimes blue) the switches on the side of the head (small black) are the water temp senders and the thermotime switch (affects cold start injector spray) is the bigger one on the side of the head with a 2 pin connector, there's a small oil temp sensor around the back of the head from distributor

pretty much all of them complete their circuit by earthing through the block, so have a single wire to them which should be getting a live feed, not sure of all the voltages.

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Hi, ive had to buy a new distruibutor. Not sure if this was the problem but it was corroded and fell to pieces in my hand. What i need to know it how to fit it. My friend mentioned it needs to be timed professionally. I have no tools for this and prob wont know how to do it. Ive called my local injection centre and they quoted £45 - £50 to fit and setup. Does this sound about OK for the price?

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I guess they've just quoted you an hour labour, TBH I'd buy a timing light (for less than that) and do it myself

It's pretty easy to do, the dizzy is two bolts and the plugs leads in the right order :)

and the timing is pretty much a doddle, any haynes manual will show you how if you can't follow advice on here

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I guess they've just quoted you an hour labour, TBH I'd buy a timing light (for less than that) and do it myself

It's pretty easy to do, the dizzy is two bolts and the plugs leads in the right order :)

and the timing is pretty much a doddle, any haynes manual will show you how if you can't follow advice on here

 

I thought that myself but i need it for tomoz, took it garage and its still not firing up, the plugs keep getting drowned in fuel and nothings happening, they mentioned no compression and a few other things. Had to leave it there, gutted public transport tomoz.

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