Central locking / Power windows problems :(

[John-M 0]

I've moved this from the thread it was in before - to avoid hijacking someone elses thread ... ...

 

My central locking and power windows both have recently stopped working - possibly around the time that I was fixing my passenger-side door handle ( using Dave's kit ).

 

The single 20amp one on its own at the top of the fusebox is blown - and blows replacements. Input to it is 12v ok, but the circuit out of that fuse position goes straight to earth, according to my circuit tester.

 

I have looked at the wiring in the doors ( thanks to suggestions by 'Supercharged' ) and all looks ok in there, but maybe I need to look again.

 

The above-mentioned fuse has two red wires - a very thick 12v live one and a slightly less thick red one ( the one that seems to be 'earthed' ) which I have now traced from the back of the fusebox to the Power Window Control Module which lives behind the interior trim adjacent to the off-side rear seat.

 

There are three sets of connections into that module, a small black one, a small brown one and large white one, which is where the 'red wire' connects into the module. The brown and black connectors easily pull out of the module, but the white one seems reluctant to come out, and has no apparant side clips holding it in. So, should this white one be removeable ? I want to remove it to see if this stops the earthing problem.

 

Has anyone removed/replaced this module ? If so, was the white connector removeable ??

 

Any assistance gratefully recieved ... ...

[volksworld13 0]

yes i would say all connectors should be removed from the unit, the connector could of melted causing it to be tight in there, post a picy so i can see the connector, you may find that connector has melted and caused the short, resulting in the fuses blowing.

[John-M 0]

Here is a pic of the Power Window Control Module, showing the black and brown connectors removed, and the white one which does look as if it is not removeble - but if that is the case, how is the damn thing replaced ? The wiring that goes into it is a long loom that runs down the length of the car back to the fusebox. And there is no sign of it having any heat damage.DSC00752.JPG[/attachment:of7kxd6b]

[mariojoshi 1]

All loom connectors are, without a shadow of a doubt, removable from the window control module.

[John-M 0]

All loom connectors are, without a shadow of a doubt, removable from the window control module.

Thats what I would expect - but the damn thing seems v reluctant to budge, and I'm loath to try 'force' it !

[John-M 0]

Well, I discovered that the white connection does not come out. But there are two hinges holding the wires in - easily levered open.

 

But ... ... The wires still won't come out.

 

Here is a pic, very close-up, of the wires going into the white socket. You can see what looks like a wee locking tab - looked like if I levered that towards the wire it would release. But no. You can see the tab by the thin black wire fully home, and by the thibk red wire slightly moved. It moves all the way out of the little recess, but still doent free the wire. However, the wires seem to attach to a female connection which goes inside the little cage that has the locking tab, so it looks to me as if the wire, attached to the female connector should just pull out, But no.

 

Click on the pic to see it bigger.

 

Has anyone been able to remove these wires ??

 

Anyone ??

[John-M 0]

After much searching and tracking 'live' wires - I have found that the vacuum module in the drivers door is to blame.

 

Disconnecting the 4-wire plug from this unit has restored Central Locking and Power Windows :)

 

All that is now non-functional is locking of the 'other' door by means of pressing down the lock button on the inside of either door, and remote locking/closure by means of my Clifford alarm fob.

 

A replacement vac module will, hopefully, restore all to working order.

[kerrinmay 0]

Have similar problem with mine. Yesterday I used the key in passenger door to lock and close both windows because my alarm / remote central locking doesn't support closure of the windows. Following that the remote central locking stopped working (although central locking with the key was still working at that time) and then the fuse blew that resulted in no central locking at all or power windows. If I replace the fuse it works for a time (although still no remote central locking) until the fuse blows again. Should I try unplugging the vacuum units also?

[kerrinmay 0]

Unplugged the passenger side vacuum module this morning because I had suspected that side...seemed ok for a while but then blew the fuse again. Should I try unplugging the driver's side?

 

What I'd really like to do is isolote the alarm from this because that's been a bit intermittent for ages and I do suspect that's the problem because the remote central locking isn't functioning. Any idea how it might be wired in? It's an aftermarket Foxguard. Ideally I'd like to find a separate fuse for it or something...any ideas?

[John-M 0]

I can't help with isolating the alarm, sorry. Although I did discover a seperate fuse in the loom associated with my Clifford Concept 50 alarm / immobilisor so it is probably the same with yours. My Clifford will, now, remotely lock doors when the fob is pressed, but only makes a 1-second attempt to close the windows - probably there is a relay that I've yet to locate.

 

But, back to the main issue - if disconnecting one of the door-based vacum modules doesnt cure it, then I'd for sure try the other one. I discovered that the module was to blame after tracing the ( big thick red ) live wire from the fuse box to all the units it fed. There were a number of other, smaller, red/live wires leading off from the single thick one - it was just a matter of trace and eliminate.

 

Good luck - nudge me if you need any more help.

[kerrinmay 0]

Turned out to be the cable from driver's door lock, it was getting caught when the window was opened...seems to have caught the wires resulting in the short.

[John-M 0]

Good find :)

[fletcherson 0]

Hi John,

 

Did you ever figure out how to remove the white socket from the window control module? I'm trying to remove a faulty module & am having the same problem as you were - the brown and black sockets come out easily, but I can't get either the white socket, or the wires leading into it to budge.

 

any help would be much appreciated...

[John-M 0]

No - never worked how to remove it. It really does look to me as if it simply doesnt come out. I even took the box apart, but still couldnt get the plug removed. V strange.