pagurus 0 Posted May 30, 2010 Refurbishing my Aug 92 Tornado Red G60, (Car1) viewtopic.php?f=1&t=89928 Using a second car 91 Blue G60 for spares, (Car2) Car1's intercooler has suffered battery acid damage. Under some of the lower casing seal clamps, the aluminium has completely disintegrated, and been replaced by what looks like hard salt. I'm using the best parts of the two intercoolers from both cars. Corroded casing and clamps is another good reason to do this to make sure your engine isn't sucking in dirty air or worse! Car2's intercooler has been damaged in a colision. It's top bracket mount is broke. Car1's top mount is ok. So swop the two over! OK. Wd40 on the steel clamps. Hammer and screwdriver on a workmate bench to knock the clamps off. Removing the lids, surely there is some slide out method? Nope :brickwall: OK - bend open the lid retaining aluminium tabs on both intercoolers. Prise off the lids, after plenty of hammering and swearing. What a mess - :eek: Corrado conversion V2 (3).pdf2010 05 30 - Intercooler Parts.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] I used Loctite '5699 grey' on the lid seal, and Dow Corning Auto Seal 'Black', on the outlet boost pipe. Book1.pdf2010 07 02 - Intercooler Refurb - Sealant Purchases - IMG_3421.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] Chose the 5699 for it's oil resistance. Got them both on ebay for bargain prices. 5699 Spec Info - Recommended for sealing all types of flanges including stamped sheet metal where water glycol resistance is required. Features & Benefits * For flanges with permanent oil contact / * Can be used for metal, plastic and painted parts / * Low odour / * Non-corrosive * Meets performance specs of OE silicone gaskets / * Temperature resistance: -55°C to 250°C intermittent Your local Halfrauds might stock the 5699 in expensive small tubes if your pushed! Loctite 5699 Premium Silicone Grey Gasket Maker/Sealant - £ 5.49 ( 80 ml ) http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... =IOV4PLPZ1 Cleaned up all the bolts and casing, and brackets with a Wire Wheel on my drill. Everything Cleans up pretty well. Used an old style retracting stanley knife to help break out the salt residues baked into some of the steel clamps. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Lid Clamps Buff Up Great - IMG_3437.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] Main bracket treatment steps - (See the two oblong components near the front cross member / valence. (this was pretty badly corroded on one car and is a robust part worth protecting, so it got the full works, alongside other main components) ETKA Corrado.pdf2010 06 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Bracket Paint Treatment - With Other Components - IMG_3337.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] (01) 'Marine Clean' degreaser, (02) 'Metal Ready' Zinc Phosphate etcher, (03) POR15 (rust prevention paint), (04) POR15 Chassis Black. The spec of the main bracket bolts and washers has changed. They are now separate items and one of the bolt's washers has to be sliced to fit properly. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf2010 07 01 - 03 Intercooler Refurb - IMG_3415 & 3417 & 3419 - Collage 02.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] The Intercooler Casings clean up pretty good with a wire wheel. Treated the sub-brackets with 'Marine Clean' Degreaser, 'Metal ready' Etcher, then a bit of POR15 Chassis Black, I had left. It's worth masking them up to keep the job half tidy. Works pretty good too. Corrado92.pdf2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Lid Sealant - Reassembled - PTFE Removal.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] After making sure the lid fits without any struggle (by bending open any aluminium clasp tabs that needed it), I squirted a heavy bead of 5699 straight onto the old black ring of sealant. Left this for about three mins then squeezed the lid on (Making sure it was the right way round!). Instructions indicate to make any fitting within 5 mins!!. Left the lot to go off for 24 hours. Next day bent over the aluminium clasp tabs. Some of them cracked and some broke off, but this doesn't affect the final seal, so long as you fit all the steel clamps. Trimmed off any excess hardened sealant. Some of the bead errupted with liquid sealant when I squeezed on the clasps. Just wiped away excess with a rag. Guess the bead was very heavy :eek:, No worries. Hammered on the steel clamps. If you get the angle right they clip on sweetly using a few taps with a small hammer. Get the angle wrong and they chew the aluminium casing up savagely :norty:. If your muttering WTF!, yes, that's a vacuum cleaner attached to the refurbed intercooler :) . If 5699 has PTFE in it (possibly smelling like tipex, but not sure about this), leaving the lot alone for a few days will allow most of the curing to finish. Blasting the charger through with a hair dryer will dry it out nicely (though watch it don't get too hot), and sucking through with a vacuum cleaner for a few hours just before fitting should remove any remaining gases you don't want fouling up the oxygen sensor. Used some boost tubes, duck tape and some old innertube to set this up. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Good Lid Stuck Back On & Clamped - IMG_3442 & 3443.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] Quite pleased with the end result. It is definately better sealed, better clamped and cleaner. I would definately recommend working on your intercooler, but prising off the lid or base should only be done if your really worried about the state of either the top or bottom beads (possibly after battery corrosion like with mine). OK so it just remains to sort out boost pipe sealing and fitting. Found some neat improvements to do here too ! :) . climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Seal Up Pesky Oval Outlet - IMG_3444 & 3446.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] Used a (12mm wide) 60-80mm MIKALOR Worm Drive Hose clip for the oval boost pipes. The one to the intercooler needs additional sealing help. I used a generous bead of Dow Corning Auto 'black' sealant for this. Apply a heavy bead to the intercooler lid oval pipe, somewhere between the pink lines on the diagram. Then squeeze on the boost pipe. Then squeeze on the pre-shaped clip. The worm drive clip can be pre-shaped using the other oval section of boost pipe as a shaping mould. Ensure the screw clamp is roughly central to the straight bit. When pressed home, smooth off the sealant with a gloved finger and tighten the clamp. Pretty neat job, and this wider clamp is a deffo upgrade on the former rat's tail screw clamp. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Inlet & Outlet Clamps - IMG_3455.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] Secured the circular booost pipe fittings with Mikalor Supra W2 Heavy Duty Hose Clamps 68-73mm. They fit with a chunky 13mm bolt, and create a proper circular clamping action to the boost pipes for what looks like a great seal. They look the biz too (IMO)! 2010 07 03 - Intercooler Refurb - Newly Mounted - IMG_3451 & 3461.JPG[/attachment:33dc6qij] The top mount bracket needs a large washer with a small bore diameter hole. All the fitting work on the brackets, clamps, nuts and bolts has really improved this unit overall. I guess that's what this refurb is all about. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted May 31, 2010 id use pu sealer ..like tiger seal/sicaflex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pagurus 0 Posted May 31, 2010 id use pu sealer ..like tiger seal/sicaflex Cheers for lookin in Steve029, Found what you recommend on ebay - "THIS IS PROBABLY THE BEST ADHESIVE SEALANT ON THE MARKET AND IS NON SHRINKING AND PERMENANTLY FLEXIBLE." http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/-PU-SEALANT-TIGER ... c1fed5e24b There's no mention of resistance to oil. Price is about same as Dow Corning Auto. Know anyone who's cracked an intercooler like this and re-sealed it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted May 31, 2010 Interesting - could you see what it was sealed with originally?? Yeah looks like acid erosion as it's in quite a state... mine had some powdery deposits due to water corrosion but I just used an airline to clean it and ran some degreaser through it, doesn't leak boost so still using it but have a brand new one in the loft for when I need to replace. As Steveo says some sort of strong sealant should do it but not sure if you have to be careful what type as the lambda probe does not like silicone - should not really matter though as long as it's cured properly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pagurus 0 Posted May 31, 2010 Interesting - could you see what it was sealed with originally?? Yeah looks like acid erosion as it's in quite a state... mine had some powdery deposits due to water corrosion but I just used an airline to clean it and ran some degreaser through it, doesn't leak boost so still using it but have a brand new one in the loft for when I need to replace. As Steveo says some sort of strong sealant should do it but not sure if you have to be careful what type as the lambda probe does not like silicone - should not really matter though as long as it's cured properly. Nice one - Supercharged. You mentioned you had a brand new intercooler ! - Vere do you live :norty: That's sweet. Wish I could say the same. :D I'd read somewhere it's the PTFE in the silicone that screws the Lambda sensor. The black stuff sealing the intercooler lid and base is different from what's been used at the boost pipe connectors. Just wish we cud speak to one of the engineers from the factory to clear this one up - :grin: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted June 1, 2010 tigerseal isnt silicone ....should be fine if you leave 48 hrs in a warm room to set up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pagurus 0 Posted July 18, 2010 Intercooler refurbed and working nicely. All the main info is updated in the first post. :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
