G60 Cambelt Replacement

[pagurus 0]

Building this thread with hopefully some help : :notworthy:

 

I'm a fairly competent newbie, wanting to refurb my August 92 Tornado Red G60 Corrado.

Refurbed Charger is back from G-Werks. Can't wait to install this baby - :D

Decided to refurb the front cross member as well, and the oil cooler, and the radiator.

Decided to replace the cambelt while so much stuff was out of the engine bay. It doesn't look too bad, but it's easily 95K since the last one.

 

Have read all the threads I can find on cambelt replacements but still puzzled about some stuff. The manuals are like some cryptic puzzle :brickwall:

I sure could use some help on this. :confused4:

I've put my questions in bold and numbered them for easy reference. Some are just nervous worries, but most are critical to doin this job right.

Wud sure appreciate comments, suggestions, answers as you guys see fit :notworthy:

Please excuse some wrong terms as I'm not sure what I'm going on about here!

 

ETKA Corrado.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - Engine Bay.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q]

I've popped out the spark plugs and the flywheel timing rubber bung, and twisted the crankshaft pulley vibration dampener to get TDC alignment.

I've put lines in to show the alignment more clearly.

stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - FlyWheel Allign 01.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q]

I'm happy I can get TDC at the bottom crank when I need to.

(01.00) Just not precisely sure at what stages in this procedure I would do this.

I'll need to remove the Crank Shaft Pulley Vibration Dampener to remove the bottom cambelt cover and the cambelt itself.

I think removing this is just a matter of removing the four hex bolts.

Corrado92.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - Crank Shaft Pulley Vibration Dampener.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q]

(02.00) How do I lock the camshaft pulley to loosen the four hex bolts?

It's recommended in the manual to replace the 12point screw that secures the crankshaft pulley.

(03.00) Is this the crankshaft bolt that's been reported as shearing on some other threads?

(04.00) What tool do I need to loosen the 12 point screw, and where would I get it from?

The cambelt tensioner will need loosening and torqueing during this.

passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - Cambelt Tensioner - IMG_3305.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q]

(05.00) How is the cambelt tensioner kept in position while tightening or loosening it's fixing nut?

There is mention in the manual and in a thread about aligning the crankshaft vibration dampener pulley marker with the intermediate pulley.

One thread says this isn't very important. (06.00) Does this marker matter at all for this procedure?

climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - Crank Shaft Pulley Vib Dampener - Position Marker - IMG_3302.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q]

(07.00) When the "crankshaft vibration dampener pulley" is removed, how do I make sure it goes back in exactly the same position on the crankshaft sprocket?

The dizzy rotor is shown with the flywheel aligned to TDC, and the far right (passenger side) cylinder 1 piston at the top.

There are no markings I can see on this, so not sure what to check here.

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - Dizzy Alignment at Flywheel TDC.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q]

(08.00) With no markings on the dizzy rotor body - how does this fit in to the procedure?

Using a small screwdriver as a guide, the Cam Head sprocket TDC position (between the dots) seems to lie above the rocker cover edge marker.

The next tooth on lies below the rocker cover edge marker. So moving the belt one tooth can not get a perfect alignment.

Funnily enough one of the dots (teeth) has been marked with blue paint and this one seems to line up exactly with the rocker cover edge marker.

2010 05 31 - CBCP - Cam Head Sprocket - TDC Position.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q]

(09.00) Is it safe to take it, the blue dot (tooth), is the true Cam Head TDC marker for alignment to the rocker cover edge marker?

 

I'll modify this first page as puzzles get unravelled. Thanks in advance to contributors - :salute:

[Henny 0]

1.00) Are you sure that's the TDC marker and not the 6degree BTDC mark? If it's the zero mark, there should be a 0 just under the lip to the left of that photo... easiest way to tell (Before you take the cam-belt off!) is to turn the engine by hand BACKWARDS a little to see if you can see the 6deg mark appear, if you can, then turn it back to the zero mark... :)

 

2.00) stick the car in gear to lock the crankshaft pulley (with the wheels on the ground of course!) or put the car in gear (with wheel bolts through the disks if the wheels aren't on!) and get a mate to stand on the brake pedal to lock up the crank... ;)

 

3.00) yup, that's the bugger that snaps... :( Replace it with one off a MKI Golf GTI 1800 (DX engine code) which has a standard hex head and ISN'T a stretch bolt... you won't actually have to undo this to change the cam-belt, but it's worth changing it while you're in there... BEWARE, it goes in F***ing tight, so you may not be able to undo it or tighten it up to the correct torque unless you have a big assed torque wrench...

 

4.00) a standard socket out of your Halford 150 piece socket set will get out the 12 point bolts... have a look and you'll find that they're 12 sided sockets... otherwise, get yourself down to Halfords and go buy a 12sided socket (think it's a 19mm from memory, but get confirmation before spending money!!!)

 

5.00) just undo the nut, the tensioner won't spin as the bit the nut tightens onto is fixed against the engine... the hole through the tensioner is not central, so if you loosen the nut, the pulley can be moved to add/remove tension by turning it on it's pivot. I tend to use a thin old screwdriver which I've bent to pull the tensioner up and hold the tension on the belt while I tighten it...

 

6.00) The mark on the tensioner/bottom pulley isn't all that important if you've got the flywheel mark lined up already... with the toothed belt setup I used to have, I didn't have a mark on the bottom pulley, so it isn't essential... ;) If you want to line it up properly, there's nothing to stop you doing that once you're ready to bolt it back on again...

 

7.00) the 4 bolts through the tensioner and bottom pulley are not in a standard pattern... one is offset slightly so it WILL only bolt back on in one orientation... ;)

 

8.00) There is a mark on the dizzy... I can see it in your pic! at the top of the pic right in the middle of the rotor arm, on the edge of the dizzy body, there's a thin groove... that's your marker... :) HOWEVER, if that's how it's set at TDC, your timing is set to TDC, not 6degree BTDC... :| Make sure (again!) that the mark on your flywheel IS the TDC mark, and not the 6degree marker!

 

9.00) AGAIN, check the fly marker... ;) 6 degrees is about a tooth on the cam... :censored: As a check, if you take off the rocker cover (ball-ache I know!) then there's a single mark on the back of the cam pulley which should line up EXACTLY with the top face of the head and give you a much better idea as to where the cam is timed up to... I'd bet it's one tooth up from where it should be... ;)

 

good luck!

[pagurus 0]

Thanks for taking time out Henny, to contribute. Sure is appreciated. :D

I'll revise where I'm up to, update the first page, and fine tune some of the questions ASAP. :salute: