VR6 Lee - Corrado VR6 Storm Mystic Blue Build thread

[RW1 0]

Well that is strange as bridging the connector at the yellow temp sensor with no ignition proves the wiring and fan controller are OK as the fan ran.

 

The sensor you bought needs checking in a pan of hot boiling water to see if the thermo-switch is making circuit.

Across pins 1 & 4.

 

But before you do that, I would like to know the blue sensor coolant temp reading the ECU uses when the fans kick in. Needs VCDS Measuring Block Group 001, 3rd field.

 

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[VR6 Lee 0]

Well that is strange as bridging the connector at the yellow temp sensor with no ignition proves the wiring and fan controller are OK as the fan ran.

 

The sensor you bought needs checking in a pan of hot boiling water to see if the thermo-switch is making circuit.

Across pins 1 & 4.

 

But before you do that, I would like to know the blue sensor coolant temp reading the ECU uses when the fans kick in. Needs VCDS Measuring Block Group 001, 3rd field.

 

.

 

Will have to get my bro to come round to hook the lead up to it so I can give you the above information.

 

is this hard to do

 

VCDS Measuring Block Group 001, 3rd field.

 

 

 

Other thing we noticed when we changed the sensor is that when we banged on the dashboard the temp gauge went up a bit, must have a bit of moisture in the gauge

 

:(

[RW1 0]

is this hard to do

 

VCDS Measuring Block Group 001, 3rd field.

Shouldn't be in possession of it if he can't. :)

 

Other thing we noticed when we changed the sensor is that when we banged on the dashboard the temp gauge went up a bit, must have a bit of moisture in the gauge

Car vibration would let that move, not unusual when static.

 

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[VR6 Lee 0]

VCDS Measuring Block Group 001, 3rd field.

 

During the test 30 minutes ago the car did not even use stage 1 fans it went straight to stage 2

 

Temp on cluster when stage 2 kicked in, was kicking in around every 45 seconds

 

VCDS from ECU said 93 degrees but sometimes jumped to 95 which we felt was strange.

 

Drove home and cooled car down and then stage 1 kicked in around 84 degrees

 

Pic of test

 

Cluster temp when stage 2 kicking in

 

Stage 2 kicking in at this point

[RW1 0]

Looking at that VCDS ECU temp reading of 93'C it is in line with the dash temp gauge of what I have records for VR6 but not at stage 2 fan. And the dash dial is near enough to the coolant temp to say its reading roughly right. Stage 2 I'd expect to VCDS up at 99 - 101'C for the ECU. Stage 1 at about 97 - 98'C. Jumping 93 - 95 on the screen quite normal.

 

Remind me....

thermostat housing is newish, do you know what thermostat was put in?

And the other is whats the part number of the fan thermoswitch in the side wall of the radiator by the battery? (May have to come out if you can't read it off the brass body with a mirror.)

 

Something is not adding up. The engine is running cool, suggesting a thermostat with wrong temp. And the fan kicking in at lower temp. An alternative radiator fan thermoswitch fitted??

 

This is the line of thought..........

Previous owner has lowered the operating temp of the cooling system????? Based on ............

 

1 x 70'C thermos-stat from Dubpower.co.uk

(Instead of 80'C standard unit)

 

1 x 1H0959481D (Low Temp version from http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1477/Low_Temp_Fan_Switch_MK3_MK4)

Description:

Low temp factory plug in fan switch located in radiator, used in all applications from 1993 to 2002. 70-75'C stage 1, 77-82'C stage 2

Corrado VR6 1992 - 1995

(Instead of 1H0 919 481B working at 84-95'C stage 1, 91-102'C stage 2)

 

And if this set up was in place, the after-run fan would never come on at 95/98'C. The temperaures on the temp. gauge would read 10'C lower approx..

 

BTW, nearly out at the same time down to Holmes Chapel. Never had the fans today anywhere, no after-run fan. Engine running cooler by about 1'C to 2'C on water temp. due to it being cooler day. Only hit 106'C max instead of 108'c-110'C oil temp., typically 104'C at 65mph down the A34 to south of Alderley Edge by-pass. Water rock solid all the time at 92'C everywhere, fast or slow.

 

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[Jon_vr6 1]

The thermostat was replaced with a VW genuine item when the engine was rebuilt, im with you on the fan switch on the radiator with the radiator not being a genuine item maybe theres a chance that the fan switch isnt genuine either. A job for when he gets the golf back i think as the raddo is his only tansport at the minute

[RW1 0]

The 70'C thermostats in the link carry the standard VW part number stamped on them, the only difference is that they are marked 70'C instead of 80'C. So was it sourced VW dealer stock which would be 80'C or another route such as Dubpower.

 

If its a genuine thermostat, and lower setting non-genuine rad fan switch, the fans would be on/off all the time while travelling, not just stationary. That would keep it cool. Lee wasn't certain in the chat last week, that was the case. And when driving the temp drops lower into the 70'Cs iirc.. That lowering of temp while driving lead to the thought the dash water temp gauge is under reading.

 

The other thought would be the thermostat is stuck, even though its newish. But taking the thermostat housing apart has to be a last resort.

 

I'm happy though that the after-run fan would work if the temp would get high enough. The jumper wire across pins 1 & 4 of the yellow sensor's connector last Friday showed the circuit is working if the yellow temp sensor thermo-switch switches on. Good positive relay click in the fan-controller and on comes the rad fan motor at stage1.

 

And the temp dash guage is reading about right, ie it is running low temp.

 

When I have fixed my timing chain case leak today with keyhole surgery to stem the life blood leak, I'll hook up VCDS and do the drive to H.C. on the A34/A535 and log the ECU temp reading v gauge v when fans come on (but I know I won't get stage 2, never hits it... stage 1 always has the capacity to cool except up at 25'C+ air temps.).

 

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[RW1 0]

When I have fixed my timing chain case leak today with keyhole surgery to stem the life blood leak, I'll hook up VCDS and do the drive to H.C. on the A34/A535 and log the ECU temp reading v Dash coolant gauge v when fans come on (but I know I won't get stage 2, never hits it... stage 1 always has the capacity to cool except up at 25'C+ air temps.).

 

Did the run on Friday afternoon (23rd).

First time I've plotted a road trip and noted the dash temp at the VCDS event points.

 

Some weird things going on.

 

1) The dash temp and ECU temp followed each other more or less the same until A34 bypass at speed when they departed similar values quite markedly by upto 10'C and never really tracked together at the same value again. Airflow affecting the blue temp sensor???? They are effectively in the same position in the thermostat housing! Dash gauge doesn't stick or jump, same since nearly new, smooth slow changes. The ECU blue sensor in all other records previously agreed with the Dash coolant reading.

 

2) No stage 2 Fans at any time.

 

3) Stage I Fan ON only

- in stationary traffic entering Bramhall

- while stood idling at Holmes Chapel.

 

4) Both dash and ECU temp senors moved when stationay at the end of the run at Holmes Chapel when I let the fan kick in with the engine idling. Just a very slow drift down on the Dash coolant temp gauge from 106'C to 104'C. The stage I fan on did not budge the dash temp when ON. The gauge just slowly drifted down 106 to 104.

 

5) Interestingly today, it reads 91'C where records elsewhere show Blue ECU temps of 97.4'C with fans. Maybe the sensor is aging???

 

7) Fan after-run/Aux. Pump came on at home with 91'C ECU and 105'C Dash coolant temp.

 

- Chart showing route and Dash coolant temps event points v Blue ECU temp sensor v Corrado's speed.

 

- PDF file of the whole run out Hazel Grove to Holmes Chapel and reversed route back. (Lambda probe's in good shape!)

 

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Log Corrado 230911 A34 Holmes Chapel.zip

[VR6 Lee 0]

Anyone got the digital cluster in there rado vr6... look awesome!!!

 

[VR6 Lee 0]

As my rado is being put away for the winter do I need to add some fuel stabilizer to the tank.

[VR6 Lee 0]

March update

 

Car in bits!!!

 

Just upgrading the brakes to 288mm

Painting the 288 calipers/carriers red

Radiator removed - Looking for replacement one

 

Found the reason why I was losing coolent, Crack pipe not fitted correctly.. grrr!!!

 

Slam panel - repainted!

 

 

Still loads to do on thew car

 

Will upload some pictures as soon as I get full internet - Not tethering on my mobile

[VR6 Lee 0]

Anyone here fitted a mk 4 golf battery tray and cover, looking at fitting one during easter weekend

[VR6 Lee 0]

Few questions

 

Anyone got the part number for a radiator sender for my vr need to get one ordered asap

 

Also I am just refurbing my 288mm brakes, to grease the brake piston up do I need to use anything specific??

[VR6 Lee 0]

anyone?

[24V Renshaw 0]

You picking up these bloody pipes fella ;) ;)

 

Jay

[VR6 Lee 0]

You picking up these bloody pipes fella ;) ;)

 

Jay

 

Yeah I was waiting for your text message back with your address.

[24V Renshaw 0]

Nice to meet you today fella, apologies I couldn't chat longer.

 

Jay

[VR6 Lee 0]

Nice to meet you today fella, apologies I couldn't chat longer.

 

Jay

 

Yeah nice to meet you also!

 

Yeah will be in touch during week by text! :)

[VR6 Lee 0]

ABS problem stressing me out

 

At start up in the morning the ABS light stays on. If I then turn key off and start again the abs light goes on and goes off as normal but then during driving it will go on and off. The main problem is even though the abs light goes on and off the abs does not work, I tried slamming brakes on and it just slides, how can this be?? I took it to my mate who works at main dealer and he is puzzled also. He changed the abs ecu which did not do anything, he said it is possibly is the abs pump but why would the abs light go on and off to say all systems ok.

 

Help much appreciated on this one.

[James. 9]

Certainly sounds like the pump to me.

 

I assume you've done a resistance check on all the sensors ? Was the ABS ecu changed for a known working one ? Failing that, I'd change the pump.

[VR6 Lee 0]

Big job i was told to change pump as its hard to get any feeling back into brake pedal so i was told

 

---------- Post added at 5:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:45 PM ----------

 

Yeah abs ecu was changed for good one but might just ask bro to try his in mine

[VR6 Lee 0]

Anybody any idea of best way to change abs pump on rado.

[VR6 Lee 0]

Abs pump now changed. Abs light goes on and off but comes on during driving. . Grrrr.

 

Brother vagcom and comes up with speed sensor mechanical failure on rear.

 

Getting there slowly but surely.:)

[VR6 Lee 0]

I have a very light scratch all the way down my front drivers side window, is there a way of polishing it out or should I just replace?

[emu 0]

I have a very light scratch all the way down my front drivers side window, is there a way of polishing it out or should I just replace?

 

 

You can polish it but it takes a lot of time. I did my head lights lenses once and it took about 2,5 h each and I was doing it by hand. My mate had his windscreen and driver side glass polished using machine polisher, same as fro paintwork but at lowest possible speed. Took ages but effect was amazing. Remember to do this in dust free environment, never do this job outside as small debris from air can make lot of scratches.

 

---------- Post added at 11:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:04 AM ----------

 

Try not to remove window for polishing, if you have to always mount it vertical for polishing, never horizontal as less pressure is made to the glass and is less like to crack.