The Monkey's Daily - Mk2 Golf GTi 8v [straight through MOT]

[boost monkey 0]

Yeah, I just mean the switches and stuff on the TB :D I haven't tried letting it run in gear at idle with 0 pedal, so will give that a go.

 

@CazzaVR, MOT extra advisory was they think (but didn't confirm :lol:) that the front mount bolt looked a little suspect. Strangest advisory I have ever had!

 

I'll try and examine it after finals are over... just 8 days now.

[boost monkey 0]

Picked up my Gates cambelt with tensioner yesterday, building reception had taken delivery of it a week ago! :lol:

 

currently sat in a pile with the clutch kit :D

[tony_ack 0]

 

currently sat in a pile with the clutch kit :D

 

You should see the pile of stuff waiting to go on my Corrado!

[boost monkey 0]

Unfortunately, my C is the same! got bags of VW parts waiting the time to get assembled :-s

 

So, I took the thermostat off the Corrado yesterday along with seal and housing all as new (they've only done about 10 miles in over 2 years!) so I went to put those on the Golf but all the PAS is in the way (The Corrado hasn't had a pas pump on for a long time).

 

So, is it possible to swap the stat and housing with the PAS on the car? The Bentley literally just says undo the housing and swap over, but I'm not sure I can get tools to the bolts? There's a bracket in the way and I may need to undo the PAS belt tensioner and drop the pump off the car a little bit with the lines still attached.

[Supercharged 2]

Nice to find an 8v Golf with PAS!

 

You have to undo the pump and move out the way slightly then just undo the 3 bolts going up to drop the pas bracket

[boost monkey 0]

Great, cheers Steve. I was thinking of slacking the tensioner (probably change the belts at the same time) and keeping the pump roughly in position perhaps balanced on an axle stand, and then have a look.

 

Despite owning the car for 4 weeks I still haven't been under it, or had the wheels off!

[Supercharged 2]

Yeah might as well... will take a bit more time but it's fairly straightforward, use a rubber mallet to move the pump if it's stuck

[boost monkey 0]

With regards to the thermostat and bad running/staying on cold map, does it switch over always from coolant temp or can it switch from oil temp? Oil seems to pass 50 quite quickly but coolant gauge stays below white section. I know it works cos it climbs up to a few mm right of vertical in traffic and then flicks back to the left when the rad fan comes on, and drops back to the white when driving normally again.

 

It's averaging 31mpg which I don't think is too bad, although could be better. We're going away this weekend so i don't want to rock the boat by doing the stat, and will do it next week instead.

[boost monkey 0]

MFA stalk came today, after about 3 weeks of being lost in the post.

 

It is filthy, and the pins are bent because it was only sent in a jiffy bag!

 

DO NOT USE Hodgy's (hodgy587) on ebay for anything! If they can't even send something properly, I don't know what else they will f*ck up!!

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

MFA stalk came today, after about 3 weeks of being lost in the post.

 

It is filthy, and the pins are bent because it was only sent in a jiffy bag!

 

DO NOT USE Hodgy's (hodgy587) on ebay for anything! If they can't even send something properly, I don't know what else they will f*ck up!!

sh#t that sucks man, sorry to hear that.

[tony_ack 0]

Hate buying crap stuff off e-Bay. I try to avoid anything with 'Mint' or 'Rare' in the description. And I'd rather someone charged a little more postage to make sure it arrives.

 

Surprisingly a lot of later MK2 GTIs have PAS - certainly most of the ones I've seen - and it's not completely uncommon on earlier ones either! Electric mirrors are much harder to find...

 

I think you *can* do the thermostat without removing the PAS pump by removing the bottom bracket, then loosening the bolts and tensioners, but it may be a squeeze.

 

The ECU always uses the water temp, never the oil temp - the reading comes from the (in)famous blue temperature sender on top of the pipe going into the head.

[boost monkey 0]

Yeah it was horrible, and it's the only one I have found so I'm not sending it back. The pins will bend back, but they were sticking through the edge of the jiffy bag and it was so poorly packaged.

 

I'm wondering if I can get a 10(?)mm socket in behind the bracket, but it'll have to wait until I have some more free time. I really need to find a job! :/

 

I'm thinking I will change the BTS also at some point.

 

The Corrado has an almost new VAG water pump on too, and as I have a cambelt to fit I'm half tempted to disassemble half of the engine, and do the belt and waterpump (with stat) all in one go!

[boost monkey 0]

I noticed last night that when the rev counter dies (still not sorted it! :s) the MFA MPG setting climbs quickly, and if you reset it will sit on 99.9

 

I didn't realise that the tacho reading had anything to do with it? I thought it was direct from the speedo. But then my speedo is mechanical, so I guess its easier to read the engine rpm.

 

Actually, now I think about it when I coast at speed the MPG climbs up and up because it sees the road speed but also sees the engine speed at 1000rpm so thinks you're being really economical.

 

Ok, answered my own question! :lol:

 

Also, with regards blue temp sensor, the car is running well and never has a problem with cold starting or anything like that. Is it still worth swapping it out? I know they're not expensive.

 

I still haven't done the thermostat. I was hoping to use Prodigal's driveway but he's not using his G60 as a daily anymore so the drive is full of both our Corrados.

[davidwort 0]

You can check the temp sensor to a certain extent by doing the timing check procedure, run the car to temp, stop, start car with temp sensor disconnected, hold the throttle open so it revs at about 2000rpm, connect the temp sensor and revs should jump to about 3000 as the ecu advances the timing a fair bit. If it doesn't do that then it's getting no reading from the sensor.

You could also connect a multimeter to it in resistance setting and see if you get a nice smooth variation as the engine warms up.

But if you are getting sensible variations from cold in water temp on the gauge then I doubt the sensor is a fault anyway unless only the ECU side wiring/pins are faulty.

[boost monkey 0]

well the golf gauge doesn't have numbers on which isn't very helpful, it just has a thick band of white on the bottom end, and then lined intervals (no idea at what temps they're located though).

 

I'll try the multimeter route, and possibly the revving one if i can get a hand from someone :D thanks for the info :salute:

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

possibly the revving one if i can get a hand from someone :D thanks for the info :salute:

 

just put a brick on it!:grin:

[davidwort 0]

just put a brick on it!:grin:

 

apparently wedging credit cards in the throttle stop is the 'official' one-man procedure :lol:

[tony_ack 0]

If up to temperature, and in set up mode timing will jump to about 20deg BTDC iirc when you reconnect the blue temp sender - hence the surge in revs

 

Another way to get into setup mode is to disconnect the blue temp sender with the engine running and rev cleanly through 3k 3 times.

 

To be honest, even at idle, you get a bit of a surge from removing/reconnecting the temp sender, as long as it is working.

 

I'm all for keeping costs down, but it *does* make sense to replace it, regardless. That and the MAF are the two most common issues with a Digi.

 

With the MPG, the calculation is done off the speedo sensor and the vac sensor on the back of the clocks (runs to the inlet manifold). The Digi II ECU has a fuel shut off command if rpm 1250> and throttle is closed, so you do get 99.9mpg if coasting and you reset the MFA!

[boost monkey 0]

Thanks team (not you alex :lol: )

 

what is setup mode? I'm guessing one of many little digi tips and tricks...!

 

Also, random exhaust question. Is the std exhaust meant to be quite boomy? The compression out the rear twin pipe is impressively high, and the whole system burbles at idle when inside.

[tony_ack 0]

Setup mode 'tells' the ECU not to compensate for the increased idle/CO when you're fettling with them.

 

To be honest, it's just one of those things I've heard you need to do before the CO/idle.

 

It could just be some OCD ritual like standing up, patting your head, turning around 360 degrees and sitting down to make sure the gods of chance bless your lucky lottery ticket because you won a tenner the first time you did it. i.e. absolutely no relevance to the task in hand, but then there's no proof that not doing doesn't negate the effect! (not that I do this btw, nor am I superstitious in any way!)

 

Or it could (more likely) be perfectly legitimate, but no-one actually knows the exact procedure (I'll rev it 4 times to 4k rpm *just* in case). I've read different methods of entering setup mode in different places.

 

With the 8v exhaust, I found the OEM one a touch on the boomy side but in a nice way (certainly better than the DTM rude boy exhaust that was on when I first got it). There's also a nice rasp on the VAG exhaust when you go through about 3-4k rpm under full throttle, especially in 3rd.

 

There's no such rasp on the 16v unfortunately, but it makes up for that when it comes on cam :-)

[boost monkey 0]

yeah I have the boom and the rasp! I thought perhaps it was blowing! I'm glad that it is supposed to be like that although I will check for leaks. MOT advisory says there's a small leak but didn't say where :-/

 

thanks for the wealth of knowledge. I am tempted to scavenge the engine etc from the corrado and put in the golf, but then the C would never get finished! :lol:

[boost monkey 0]

Just got a text from the missus saying she has bad news. Some pikey has pinched the wheels from my bike! probs just front quick release, but you never know.

 

At first I thought she meant something had happened to the car, so I'm kinda glad about that. But still.

[boost monkey 0]

I found the problem to the fact that the car seemed to lurch when on part throttle and jerk back again when off. It wasn't the throttle cable. It was the front mount.

 

I swapped it yesterday with a brand ne.w one I'd stored ready for the Plum. The old golf one was a hydro one with the big metal cover. I got it off and it didn't seem too bad but I could easily move the pin which attaches to the engine bracket so I binned it and replaced with the new one.

 

Now it doesn't lurch or jerk, and when the revs drop to around 1000rpm and you're slowing down the bonnet and front end don't shake violently! So I'm glad I got that done.

 

I still have to do the thermostat and cambelt. Also the fanbelt and pas belt are a bit worn, so I think a stripdown of that side of the engine at some point will happen. I'll probably put the new waterpump on also, scavenge a few more parts off the old KR before it finally dies.

 

Had some temping work in Banbury this week, spotted a dark red (Bordeaux?) Corrado and another Aqua blue one with crystal rears - anyone know them? I thought perhaps people would recognise me in the Golf but I guess that was a bit far fetched! :lol: old fella in the Bordeaux looked pretty miserable! Aqua was oncoming so didn't get as good a look at it.

Edited June 12, 2011 by boost monkey

[boost monkey 0]

Been a bit quiet lately, got my results and my first graduate job in the same day (last Monday)! so that was pretty cool. I've been temping all the time too, and just started grad job today :D I'll update the Plum with my life story :lol:

 

anyways, back to the golf. I been playing with the CL last night. I've found 4 hoses:

 

blue running under the centre section of the boot carpet,

pink running down drivers side bodywork,

very short yellow (about 4 inches - thought it had snapped off)

very long yellow, seems to go up into the tailgate mech?

 

before I just had the long yellow going directly onto the CL pump which would just mean the tailgate opened from the key and none of the 4 doors (although key turn obviously caused drivers to open!) anyways, the blue had a T junction on it, so I connected the blue and pink and short yellow to this, and the other end of the short yellow to the CL pump.

 

Now the 4 doors unlock from the CL, and the tailgate doesn't work off the CL. Much better than before but anyone know if I need to T in the long yellow line to allow the tailgate to open from the CL also?

 

The front mount has made low speed stop starting much much smoother, got a bit of driveshaft shake now so gonna have to look into that at some point.

[boost monkey 0]

I refilled the tank tonight (ASDA - 130.7!) and the sums tell me i'm doing 34mpg. Not great seeing as that's 95% extra-urban but i do like to put my foot down when a gap emerges on the commute!

 

The exhaust is sounding a bit raspy, so I'm hoping to find a decent rear box (i know this is corroded) which I'll swap first, and then work forwards from there.

 

I'm worried about the stat. I just don't know when I will find time to do it. As we all know, having to work on your daily can be a bit worrying!