The Monkey's Daily - Mk2 Golf GTi 8v [straight through MOT]

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

No I haven't checked the voltage yet, 'll have to do that at home where the MM is :-)

 

Are you actually english??? Don't spoil my fantasy....

 

sorry dude! I used to live about 30 mins outside Oxford on the A420, born in Swindon, studied in Bristol.... I'm a west country boy

 

I just happen to live in snotland... Also Dundee cake tastes of arse :lol:

[boost monkey 0]

:lol: fair enough. I lived in swindon for ages.

 

So you're a country bumpkin! It's all making sense now :D

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Orrrrr.... I'm lying and showing my true Scottish heritage by confusing the English and fighting/drinking and general good humoured fun! aye!

[boost monkey 0]

I think you're a cake chewing soap dodger either way.

 

;)

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

:lol: fair enough. I lived in swindon for ages.

 

So you're a country bumpkin! It's all making sense now :D

 

Poor you... :(

 

I first lived in South marston about 5 miles outside Swindon on the A420. Then I moved into stratton next to arkell's brewery in kingsdown. Then moved into the Black horse pub in wanbough to be closer to the beer :D

 

Then moved to the George inn nr Kempsford (next to RAF fairford) then moved to Bristol for uni then moved to Scotland about 5 years ago

 

---------- Post added at 01:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:42 PM ----------

 

to right i dodge the cake! they couldn't bake a cup cake up here without deep frying it! flipping heathens...

 

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 PM ----------

 

every heard of Tiffin? it's like Toffee that's gone wrong... essentially heated milk and sugar iuntill it's dry and crumbly like chalk... Like kendle mint cake without the mint and with the flavour of arse burgers... That's baking in Scotland.

 

I miss Lardy Cake :(

[boost monkey 0]

Tiffin is good stuff, an ex housemate used to make it. I miss lardy cake too but i also like my arteries, and unfortunately the blood delivery system is higher priority...

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Tiffin is good stuff, an ex housemate used to make it. I miss lardy cake too but i also like my arteries, and unfortunately the blood delivery system is higher priority...

 

your certainly no scot! :lol:

[tony_ack 0]

In between all of the talk of Tartan fantasies...

 

The electrical problem certainly sounds weird!

 

It could be a dodgy load reduction relay (No 100)?

Does the battery light come on with the ignition before you start the car? The Golf alternator won't charge if the dash battery light isn't working.

[boost monkey 0]

Cheers tony, I'll check the relay. I did notice that my fusebox is incredibly sparse - I have only a handful of relays in there and lots of empty slots. I'm guessing for the optional dealer things? Would it help to post a pic of the dash? There are a few inline fuse things, I'm guessing it's for alarm/immob and also headunit.

 

It didn't do it this morning, but I didn't have the 3 systems (demister, blower and lights) all on at the same time.

 

Yeah the light comes on full, the oil light flashes and the coolant one does a bit of a jig but i think we've covered that one now.

 

in previous experience in golfs when the alternator goes, the whole car dies. I remember once when mine went and I only managed a few more miles before it completely ground to a halt.

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

 

in previous experience in golfs when the alternator goes, the whole car dies. I remember once when mine went and I only managed a few more miles before it completely ground to a halt.

 

yep... there wouldn't be enough power to get the ignition system working so the car would slowly get worse and worse until it died...

[boost monkey 0]

tony ack ack attack, I have no #100 relay. But I have have 2 53's. Not sure if that helps. There's only about 6 relays on the whole fuseboard!

 

Went to pick up some synta silver for an oil change this weekend and local VW are out. They only stock 5W grades now. That's like a laxative to this old engine!

[tony_ack 0]

Damn I don't have my B-reg MK2 any more, so I can't check which is the right one! Not too sure why I said #100 - cross-over relays are usually 17 or 18

 

Think it is in the bottom row of relays, second slot from the left (probably the first relay you come to as the first slot is for front fogs)

 

The relay is responsible for cutting power to most ign. live systems while you crank the starter

[boost monkey 0]

Ok no probs. I think I have narrowed it down to the ignition switch. It was doing it again today with just the interior fan blowers on. I wiggled the key and the fans came back. It also did it tonight with the headlights on. I wiggled the key and pushed it further into the barrel (due to the switch just using the very tip of the key I think?) and they came back on.

 

So I think it's deffo the ignition switch. I'm not going to change it. We all know what a ballache it is to swap out - although I do have a new column cowling upper and lower panel, and also need to fettle the wash wipe stalk a little more so perhaps I will do it all at the same time.

 

I've also tracked down the rev counter problem to the dash panel itself, by elimination everything else. Hopefully I can keep the same main panel and just swap the tacho out. I also restored the braided earth strap from coil bracket to engine. I stripped the old plastic cover off it and left it in some lemon juice(!) to remove oxidation. Then I used some 7mm Maplins Heatshrink (thanks bro!) to replace the cover. Then I put it back on the car. Looks quite new now!

 

Finally, I did an oil change today with all genuine parts (5L synta silver, copper crush washer and filter for £32 at dealer) which went well. I used some Wynn's Engine Flush which I have used for a number of years just to thin the oil out and try to dissolve some of the buildup. Whilst checking the sump nut for leaks, I did think the bottom end was a bit whirry - could deffo hear the crank doing its thing from under the car. Not sure if that's good or not. Also one of the hydro tappets is deffo dead I think. I know it's not a big issue, i could just hear it rattling a little. The oil change went well though, and all is fine again. I'm taking your advice of keeping the 8v well oiled for longevity!

 

I'd like to pick up a spare PB head sometime and rebuild it. That would be cool. I was also thinking of replacing the fuel rail for new as I know someone who had theirs crack when doing some maintenance. Also wondering about upgrading the injectors for a new design - so newer spray pattern. I know the VR boys do this sometimes and it can help running.

[tony_ack 0]

It's okay having all these plans, but just think of all the funds you're diverting away from the Plum!

 

Is the ignition switch really that hard? I did the one in the VR earlier this year and it took about 30 minutes including. I found it easier to destroy the old one rather than trying to remove it one piece.

 

A spare head rebuild would be good just for your own experience more than anything else, but talk about fuel rails and injectors is overkill unless you're having specific problems in these areas. I know that the 16v (k-jet) injectors tend to suffer from spray pattern issues when they get really old, but the PB ones tend to be better. Also, the PB injectors already flow pretty well anyway, and if you want to up the power, you are going to hit a breathing brick wall long before you need bigger injectors. If you do have sleepless nights over the injectors, then clean them before splashing the cash!

 

By the way, I've heard that there is a way to change the lifters without removing the head, though I've never done it myself.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about the bottom end until it starts knocking

 

The rev counter is built into the main circuit board for the cluster, which includes the MFA. Your easiest option is to get a new set of clocks and swap the speedo.

[CazzaVR 0]

I agree about the ignition switch- bit of a myth that's it's really difficult! All those instructions where you have to take the seat out, lie on your back and then spend an hour trying to get that tiny screw out are tosh! :lol: I've changed at least 5 now, all in under 30 mins, no seat removal, from the top. You can tap the little screw around anticlockwise from the side with a flat screwdriver/hammer to undo it ;)

 

Also agree with Tony that you're getting side-tracked :(

[boost monkey 0]

Cheers for the input :D yeah I won't be doing much to the golf - just maintenance as it's the daily.

 

I am starting to get geared back up on the Plum - honest!! Once the Purple Paperweight is finished I can start on the golf! :lol:

[boost monkey 0]

2 things for today.

 

Small leak from the supertwisted hose that goes to the oil heat exchanger plate. Wish I'd noticed before the oil change! Causes a small weep which results in topping up coolant every few days.

 

Does anyone(!) know if the rear engine mount and gearbox mount can be changed by removing the brackets that go to them whilst the engine/box is supported? This involves removing the L-shaped bracket from engine block to mount under the servo, and also removing the gearbox bracketry to do the box mount. I'm still getting a lot of judder when setting off in first, and also a lot of vibration and revs bottoming out if I try to pull away in 2nd (awful in 3rd) from around 1000rpm. This isn't pulling away from a standstill, just from rolling at a speed which corellates to 1000rpm in 2nd and then 3rd. I do not expect a mk2 gti to be able to pull away in 2nd from a stop, let alone 3rd! I am not (that) deluded :D

 

\On a more general note, it's my birthday in a few weeks and i've convinced my wife to buy me the Halfords Pro 150 piece socket set as its currently half price at 99.99 :D

[tony_ack 0]

Never done the rear mounts before on a Golf or the Corrado, so I can't help I'm afraid! The juddering is not normal, but you should be able to move off in 2nd.

 

The Halfords socket set has been 50% off as far as I can remember! That aside, it is a cracking piece of kit for the money. You obviouly have a very generous wife - it's my 30th in a couple of months and I'll be lucky to get anything off the missus!

[boost monkey 0]

it's my 29th so i'm not far behind! :D

 

I had a MOT advisory saying one outer CV looked like it wasn't the right one for the car, so I guess that might be the juddering. I keep forgetting to check it.

 

Yeah, that set seems to be reduced quite regularly. I think it's the lifetime guarantee that swings it for me. My breaker bar is one of theirs. I walked in one day after I sheared the head off on a VW hubnut, and they just gave me another one out of stock - didn't even ask to see the receipt!

 

I did look at other sets like Draper etc but they're all £200+ even with discounts.

[boost monkey 0]

Speedo gave up the ghost tonight. I guess that scraping noise that was happening behind the speedo clock was a warning a few weeks ago!

 

I'm not without any way to guage speed legitimately, but I have found some twin plug clocks on the bay so I'm remaining hopeful.

 

So, out of the speedo, tacho, coolant guage, MFA and fuel guage only the latter 2 work! :lol:

[boost monkey 0]

The drive in to work saw the resurrection of the dash panel! I stuck my hand up past the fusebox cover panel and wiggled what I thought was the dash connector leads, and the dash worked almost all the way in. The revs still dropped off but it does that a lot. I think it's probably dirty connectors.

 

So I'm going to order a speedo cable from a local place, and when I fit it I'll have a look at the dash connectors and tidy them up if need be. I'm thinking perhaps some light solvent on an earbud to clean up the dash connectors. I know from previous experience with keyboard that those printed circuits on plastic can sometimes gum up.

 

Happy bean!

[boost monkey 0]

Well, after a couple of scary nights home with intermittent headlights I bit the bullet and ordered a new ignition switch from VW. It has arrived in today so I'm going to pick it up and trial fit at lunch (trial fit = cowling off, pull the wires out of old and test the switch as it hangs in mid air! :D)

 

Also, I noticed that the teeth on my car key are VERY worn. They're so bad I'm not sure if the ignition barrel is doing very much. And because the end of the key just about reaches into the ignition switch, I wonder if it is this causing all my problems? Perhaps I need a new key and barrel as opposed to a switch.

 

Also, found some interesting points on this thread:

 

Golf Mk2 GTi 8v ignition switch? on GSF Forum

 

Someone had exact same problem as me, and he changed the relief relay and everything was perfect after that. Anyone know what this is, or which number relay on the fuseboard? Fusebox cover panel doesn't mention it. Apparently it's one of the relays that all of these systems (healights, demister, heater blower and wipers) use. I'll ask at VAG when I pick up the switch. The local one to my work is quite knowledgeable which is nice.

 

---------- Post added at 10:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 AM ----------

 

After some more research, the relief relay, or X-relief is the relay which cuts all high current circuits when the key is turned to cranking position to start the car.

 

So I guess there are 3 possible things going on here:

 

- relay is bad, and keeps shorting out when driving (requires key wiggle to fix),

- ign switch is bad, and thinks the key is in the cranking position even when driving (same solution as above),

- key is so old that its slipping out of end of ign switch - bit far fetched if you ask me.

 

All thoughts welcome - I have the same problem on the plum(!)

[boost monkey 0]

More thoughts - the fact that I have to wiggle key to fix the issue would point to the switch.

 

I have picked it up from VW now, and ordered the load reduction relay (£13!!!) although it seems it's not needed anymore. I have trial fitted the switch as above and seems to let me use all my lovely electro toys inside :D

 

The real acid test will be driving home tonight in the dark. No clue when I will be able to fit it. I hear different things about how easy/hard it is. Going to try and find a youtube video! :lol:

[tony_ack 0]

After some more research, the relief relay, or X-relief is the relay which cuts all high current circuits when the key is turned to cranking position to start the car.

 

Do you hear an echo in here??

[boost monkey 0]

:lol: had a funny 5 mins!

 

Well I used the switch last night, I taped the spare key into the switch itself (wasn't sure if it would come out or not) and then masking'd it to the side of the dash. Almost forgot to put the real key in the barrel but the steering lock reminded me quite quickly! Had no issues last night or this morning so i'm happy.

 

Just a shame you have to get an excavation team and mountaineering gear to get to the bowels of the column to actually put it in its right place!

 

I wonder if I can talk to Cazza "30 mins" VR into doing mine for me :D :D :D :D