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simeone0704

Changing a distributor

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Could anyone tell me how to change the distributor. the cable which is attached to the side on mine is very loose and the car will not spark into ignition every time. Once the cable is pushed into the distributor it starts fine.

 

Do i need a new distributor and if so how easy is it to replace?

 

Cheers

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is the cap ok? If the cap is damaged you can get that separately. Also, check the ignition cable to the distributor is not damaged... The cables are dead easy to change, if you have a VR6 then you ideally need a tool to remove the cables on the spark plugs as they are set quite deep in the block, but it's not impossible to do without. the 16v and g60 plugs are quite easy to get too.

 

Id say you don't need a new distributor.... if the hall sender was broken then the car wouldn't start at all. Remove the cap, clean the connectors with some wire wool and check the cap and leads for damage. Also... take some pictures and post up your car! We love a good peep show :D

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Alright.

 

its a 1.8. ill get some pics up soon haha.

 

The wiring that connects to the dizzy is a bit flared and could do with a sort out, but the main issue i think is the part where it connects to the dizzy. It is hanging off and i think this is why its got a mind of its own and starts when it feels like it. The longer you leave it without starting the less chance of it starting. Also there is oil in the cap as i think the seals have worn down.

Shall i just buy one from scrappy. What else could be the problem if its not the distributor?????????

thanks

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if there is oil about then probably best to change it as you say. It's only held on by one screw i think but I'm not 100% sure with the 16v. (i assume it's not a g60?)

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sounds like the shaft/seal are worn and the hall sender connector is snapped, best get a complete recon replacement, a s/h one may also leak oil and you have no idea how old it's hall sender will be.

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sounds like the shaft/seal are worn and the hall sender connector is snapped, best get a complete recon replacement, a s/h one may also leak oil and you have no idea how old it's hall sender will be.

 

How easy is it to swap over David? There is one screw is there not for the dizzy?

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1 13mm bolt and clamp on 8v engine (might have to tap dizzy round to free it after removing clamp, they sieze in a little) and 2 10mm bolts on 16v, very easy job.

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When replacing it with the new one, does it have to be put in at the same angle and how do i check if it is in correctly?

 

Hi, just replaced mine of my 1.8 KR -easy to install but engine now not firing. So swapped back the old dizzy and problem persists.

 

Being a complete newbie I did not note the order of the leads on the cap (yes I now know having read the forums)

 

So my question is (and hopefully you will benefit as well from the responses)

 

The leads as you look at the block are 1234 from left - Where is no.1 on the dizzy? I believe the order is 1342 but where is the start point on the dizzy.

 

Is there anything else that needs done once the order is correct? I was hoping this to be straightforward but a complete lack of spark is worrying. Apologies if any of this is posted elsewhere in the forum (I did see one but it sent me to the archive and all I got was some SQL error page???) - I've done a search but could not find a definitive answer.

 

Hope this helps us both.

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Time the engine up on the cam belt pulleys, arrow on plastic cover to pulley notch, then remove the dizzy cap and note position of rotor arm, dizzy turns anti-clockwise looking at from end of head so first cap lead/contact will be no. 1 , second 3 etc...

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