elliott 10 Posted October 25, 2011 (edited) Yeah? What about the old turn on the ignition while trying to connect trick? I was told my 9a couldn't be scanned but it can. You need to turn the baud rate right down to 4800 then try and connect while the ignitiion is off, wait untill it counts down untill the next connect attempt then turn the ignition on. I'd be interested to try this on a G60 out of interest, I could be talking s***e but it worked for me. Edited October 28, 2011 by elliott Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam.l 0 Posted October 26, 2011 Until I'm able to acquire an old laptop, software and leads, is there anything else I could check or replace relatively easily? Or any other suggestions? Could anyone shed any light on whether it is a sensor issue? Really need to get the car back on the road. Would a new water sensor he or is there any way of checking that the air and water sensors are working properly? Thanks in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NS16V 0 Posted October 26, 2011 Could it be the distributor itself? My 16v (KR) played up would not start sometimes, back fired, had it swapped over problem solved. I assume your car has a Cat, check the wires to the probe have not been damaged that causes bad running too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam.l 0 Posted October 27, 2011 The cars a pre 92 so havnt run a cat for some time, strangely i think it might have a probe put on by the previous owner but will check. It has not caused any problems for over two years, I'm almost convinced it is something I have replaced or touched etc that has caused a fault. But how, and why? Can anyone offer any explanation or advice before imgo and spend more money! Could it still be a sensor? Trying to think what's in the area I have been working in and what I have replaced. Thanks all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elliott 10 Posted October 28, 2011 Could it be the hall sender/sensor in the dizzy, a bad earth in there would give you the random missfire and backfire. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam.l 0 Posted November 1, 2011 Yeah that's worth a look, have checked all the bits around that area and had them gone over by a mechanic friend that reckons all the leads, cap, arm etc are ok and feels it's a timing issue. Spoke to Darren today from g-werks today who reckons that it could be something to do with the timing and crank pulley. Reckons I should put the engine at TDC and check it all lines up. The fact it is not a consistent problem makes him think the bolt could be loose. Not sure if I'm convinced or not, would the valves hit the pistons if it's slipping? I just wish it would magic itself fixed at this point :-( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
