1.8 16v KR - Help won't start

[rado_peril 0]

Hoping someone can assist.

Made the fatal mistake of deciding to investigate when car was running ok. Couple of minor problems - poor acceleration and overheating. Neither causing too much problem but thought I'd use the summer nights to take a look. Not a mechanic so used the forum and took advice from the threads on possible issues.

 

So I,ve done the following -

 

Checked injectors spray properly - fine

Checked the distributor, looked a bit worn on the rotor arm so replaced everything - distributor, cap, leads

Then decided to replace heater matrix for the overheating - so out came the dashboard. Never again!

Matrix replaced.

Also replaced the fuel pump relay - one spade looked 'burnt' so got a replacement

Finally I replaced the ignition switch as this was also something that had never been replaced

 

Result? Car will not start.

 

You put the key in and turn - nothing.

 

All electrics ok, you can hear the fuel pump and there is a feint smell of fuel.

 

Replaced the ignition switch with old one - same problem.

 

My suspicion is something is not back where it should be - although all wires and connectors do seem to be connected back up.

 

 

Guys, really stuck here. Parked up at home so difficult to get to a garage. Hope someone can provide a few quick pointers for me to follow and get her back on the road.

 

Oh, no alarm/immobiliser.

[Wild-Animal 0]

Okay so when you took your Ht leads off your distributor cap, did you put them back in the right order or vice versa did your put them back into the right spark plug? they have to be in the right order as the spark plugs have to fire in the correct sequence or else they fire at the wrongs time.

 

I cant fully rember the firing sequence, if you really cant find the firing sequence then use the method of dedunction, swap the number 1 ht lead with all 4 see which one should give a stuttter on nomber one chamber, then work your way through the rest.

 

Let us know if that helps or it something else

[rado_peril 0]

Thanks for reply, the lead nos are 1342 from TDC.

Wish it got this far. There is zero response when you turn the key. You get the pump sound and all the electrics come on - tried all the switches. Other than that - nothing. So the ignition switch removed and the older one put back. Repeated the process but still the key turns but nothing happens.

[Wild-Animal 0]

em you can check to make sure your getting a spark, take a park plug out then put it back into the ht lead, earth it out onto an engine compontent, turn the car over and see if your getting a spark

 

SO you tested the injectors, your getting fuel through fine

other ideas, your fuel filter that was put on the right way ?

If your sure everthing is correct sometimes a bump start is the option, if its been sitting for a while

 

---------- Post added at 04:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:29 PM ----------

 

Oh yeah also make sure there is a I think 3 pin plug bellow the distributer cap make sure thats properly plugged in ! Mine was not and it would not start

[rado_peril 0]

Hi, unfortunately that just the problem. I cannot turn it over - when you turn the key in the ignition - nothing. Also forgot to say that I changed all the plugs and did the spark test. This was all before I did the matrix so I'm guessing either a fuse or connector is not working. Will check forum for a wiring diagram and take a look at the fuse board just in case.

[Wild-Animal 0]

Also if your throttle responce was not the best, then look into replacing your throttle cable, I noticed someone had one for sale on here, not sure if its still here. The cable frays causing delayed responce

[rado_peril 0]

Throttle response ok as far as I can tell. No frayed cables

[bcstudent 0]

Sounds to me like you've answered your own question. If it turned over before the heater matrix job and hasn't since, then that dash might have to come out again.

[steveo29 0]

yes sounds like a case of re tracing what you did , somethings been left off or knocked while you worked on it

 

can use a multimeter to see if the starter is getting its start voltage to the solenoid

[eurospec 10]

For future reference the dash doesn't need to come out to do the heater matrix, can be done without touching the drivers side of the dash basically.

 

I would check all your wiring around the fusebox and ignition. I had a similar problem recently, turned out that the big red wire from the ignition had frayed so much than when I had moved it, it had split.

[rado_peril 0]

Cheers guys, going to go back to basics. Will get dash out tomorrow and start over. All comments very much appreciated.