Portent 0 Posted August 28, 2011 I believe all I need to to is supply a live with 20 amp fuse and then an earth. Is this correct? My fusebox has a couple of 20 amp lines already. So would it be safe to splice off of one of these (with appropriate connectors, not just taped together), provide an in-line fuse, and then earth to any part of the bodywork? Or have I got it so badly wrong that I should just call someone who knows what they are doing This is for electric movement, they are not heated. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted August 28, 2011 No, dedicated 20 amp fuse as per this.... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56083-Recaro-wiring&p=737460#post737460 . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KADVR6 0 Posted August 28, 2011 well thats exactly how i wired in my electric edition 1 recaros in my mk2 golf, worked just fine for years. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted August 28, 2011 What else was on the fused circuit and were they all switched on and it still worked? . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Portent 0 Posted August 28, 2011 No, dedicated 20 amp fuse as per this.... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56083-Recaro-wiring&p=737460#post737460 . I appreciate the original wiring had a dedicated line but is it absolutely necessary? Do you know if it was dedicated for a reason, or just because it was an optional extra? well thats exactly how i wired in my electric edition 1 recaros in my mk2 golf, worked just fine for years. Do you mean you spliced from an existing 20 amp line, so you had one 20 amp supply shared between two 'things'? Oddly mine does have a 20 amp fused connection at the point I would expect the factory installed electrical seats to be wired. But I'm not sure what it's feeding. It does have some very original looking german writing on a label and I'm half wondering if it had electric seats at one point in the past and they have just been cut off somewhere. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) Optional extras do get fitted to other fuses, so its more the full electrical load on a fuse being overloaded the circuit fuse as I posted above. If you are going to splice a wire at the fuse box, you may as well pick up off the back of the fuse box on a battery spare connection as in the link and use the separate fuse. If its that yellow 20 amp fuse on the very top of the plate, thats the Lambda probe heating. . Edited August 28, 2011 by RW1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Portent 0 Posted August 28, 2011 Ok thanks. I'll go with the dedicated line. Yes it was the 20 amp at the top of the plate. And can I just earth anywhere? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Portent 0 Posted September 13, 2011 Popped to the dealer yesterday to get the plug to fit into the back of the busbar. Apparently they are now on back order and it may take a couple of weeks to get them :( The weird thing is that I took the part number from another plug that was in use on the back and it apparently came from a car with air con (according to the dealer). Anyway... the seats are 90% in the right position so fine for driving until the part arrives. But if I want to adjust them then could I just connect them to my battery charger and get power that way? I'd obviously wire in a 20 amp fuse if I did it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Portent 0 Posted September 25, 2011 Ok, I finally wired these in today. It was easier than I expected and I ran a new connection off the back of the fuse box, with an in-line 20 amp fuse, as recommended. It worked first time and the car has lasted several hours without bursting into flames. So thanks fot the advice. Now my question... I don't need the ignition turned on to move the seats. Is this correct, or have I taken a feed off the wrong part of the fuse box? I had assumed that I would need the ignition turned on for there to be power. Obviously it only uses power when I move a switch but I thought I'd check if I've done it right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted September 25, 2011 Now my question... I don't need the ignition turned on to move the seats. Is this correct, or have I taken a feed off the wrong part of the fuse box? I had assumed that I would need the ignition turned on for there to be power. Obviously it only uses power when I move a switch but I thought I'd check if I've done it right. As per my link in my 1st post...... The supply before fusing in the factory build is taken off connectior Y position, pin 1. This is a connection to busbar 30 which is the battery supply busbar. So OK! . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Portent 0 Posted September 25, 2011 (edited) Ahah. Perfect. Thanks. (EDIT: Happy to help anyone install this in the future - I'm in Surrey, KT10 postcode). For the benefit of other n00bs like me I'll explain what I did. This might seem ridiculously simple for the more experienced people but I don't mind looking a fool if this helps someone doing a search in the future. I do apologise for not taking more pictures. But I'll add it here as I think that one day this might help someone doing a search... First disconnect the battery, just in case. 1) There is a two wire loom which runs under the carpet from the passenger seat, under the handbrake tunnel, through to the drivers seat, then up the drivers door edge , which should then enter the fuse box near the bonnet release handle by the drivers foot (on a UK right hand drive car). 2) If you rescue the loom from the previous car then the red wire is live and the brown is earth. 3) Remove the following trim: (a) Next to the drivers right foot, near the bonnet release handle, is a piece of trim. It is held in place by two screws on the door-side edge. It is also held in place by the accelerator stop (just unscrew it) and a large circular floor trim above the accelerator stop (again just unscrew it). When you remove the trim you may need to pull the bonnet release lever back to free it. (b) Remove the drivers right hand side undertray. This is held in place with two square plastic screws that just twist and then pop out. © The drivers left hand undertray should also be partially loosened. You don't need to remove it completely but simply remove the two screw above the right hand trim. This allow you to flex the left hand tray away so that you can get the fuse box in and out more easily. 2) The brown wire is the earth. Just connect this to any suitable location on the bodywork. Where I connected mine was a large screw by the drivers right foot, next to the bonnet release handle. 3) Remove the fuse box - The box is held in place by two hooks. There should be two large plastic covers, one on each side (mine was missing one). I can't recall how I removed them but I seem to recall sqeezing them at the top. Once they are off them lift each side over the hook. Lift one side first, then the other. Sorry I didn't take any pictures. 4) Refer to RW1's post about where on the back of the fuse box to connect the live. Sorry I didn't take any photo's but it should be fairly easy to find. On the rear, near the top of the box on the right hand side (assuming you are sitting in the drivers seat) there will be a very thick red cable. Then a gap. Then a thick but slightly smaller red cable going to a 20 amp (yellow) fuse on the box. You can add your live connection in this gap. You will need the appropriate connector from VW. 5) You will need a simple cable with an in-line 20 amp fuse. On one end you will need a suitable connector to go into the back of the fuse box (see picture 1 below). I'll look through my invoices when I'm a little more sobre and post the part number here. But it's a red connector which can be seen in the picture below. When I bought mine it was just the plastic housing and I needed to add the metal connector inside (which I cannibalisd from a connector bought at Maplin). 6) That's it. Simples. You now have a live and an earth. The connector you need (Picture 1): [ATTACH=CONFIG]49320[/ATTACH] Connector ready to plug into the back of the fuse box (red connector on the left goes into the fuse box), 20 amp fuse (middle of picture), and then crimp the yellow connector (right side of my photo) onto the red live wire from the seat loom. [ATTACH=CONFIG]49321[/ATTACH] Edited September 26, 2011 by Portent Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fraz1111 10 Posted December 5, 2018 Need some help. I have a set of original set of electric heated recaros. Trouble is my car didn’t have the wiring for these. Does anybody have a harness for the seat movement? If not does anybody have a picture or wiring diagram? Went through the thread but only seems applicable if you have the original harness and then have to find a place to plug it in. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philly-R6 0 Posted December 6, 2018 The seat movement harness is very simple - it takes 12v from the fusebox to under the seats. The harness follows the heated seat loom under the carpet along the right-hand door and over the tunnel. Have a read here at how k6kny got on: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?79194-Kenny-s-VR6-Audio-Install-Completed&p=1093174&viewfull=1#post1093174 [ATTACH=CONFIG]95583[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
