wheels feel like there turning without the steering wheel...

[vw_john 10]

my car was making some knocking noises and on heavy acceleration pulled to the right, thought it was my top mounts. so i got them changed and my suspension, why not, so now the knockings gone but the pull is still there. the tracking is now out, but im getting that sorted today. although when my steering wheel is straight the wheels also look straight even though on driving my wheels at a practial 45 degree angle to go in a straight line.

hope this all makes sense :shrug:

cheers

[robo22sri 10]

Sounds like your wish bone bushes are shot to me bud

[Critical_Mass 10]

Just getting the tracking done isnt enough, you need a full geometry set up which will include, camber, toe in/out, caster. More expensive at aroudn £70 but it has to be done. Forget about getting the tracking done, you need to go somewhere, that can do a full set up. WHich will include tracking (toe in/out)

[davidwort 0]

Sounds like your wish bone bushes are shot to me bud

yep, I agree, if the rear bushes on your wishbones are worn/torn the car will be all over the place when you accelerate or brake hard.

[vw_john 10]

Right got back from where i was going to get my tracking done, annnnnnnnnnd. subframe is cracked... badly. where can i get one from and how tricky is the job?

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Right got back from where i was going to get my tracking done, annnnnnnnnnd. subframe is cracked... badly. where can i get one from and how tricky is the job?

 

sounds like what happened to me! good job you found it in time!

 

It's quite a large job tbh dude, you'll need the wheels, wishbones and track rods off the hubs and then you undo the gearbox mount and rear engine mount, then you support the engine with a hoist and drop the subframe out from underneath... the power steering pump is attached so you'll need to undo the rose joint on that too.

 

I did this about a month ago and it took me and a mate with an engine hoist about 2 days. It's not for the faint hearted. Good news is that the subframe is not expensive second hand and I'm sure you'll find one on ehere or on ebay soon enough for about £70-£100

[vw_john 10]

aah, not what i wanted to hear... starting to understand now why it was such a bargain...

I dont have a hoist. or the balls to undo engine mounts and gearbox mounts.

well I've been looking and havent found any yet. the g60 one is only for g60s isnt it.

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

early 8v or golf ones might fit but they don't look the same... I'm not sure tbh. They come up from time to time though so just keep your eyes open.

 

If your changing the subframe you might as well think about changing the wishbone mounts etc if they look a little worse for wear.

 

Your not supposed to do this.... but I had my subframe welded up with some 10mm sheet steel and it's been like that for ages with no noticable problems.

 

just a thought :)

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

where abouts has it cracked? can you get a pic? and yea i would get it welded tbh for the hassel its worth, i was close to replaceing my subframe when i was replaceing my wishbones as the rear wishbone bolt sheared off but luckily i got it sorted with a drill and a tapp. took me like 6hours on my back with a drill, hungover on a sunday afternoon not fun :(

[vw_john 10]

hmm, financially and logically welding is the best option. The :bonk::bonk::bonk: that had my car before me had used fiberglass filler to cover the cracks for the recent MOT.

far worse on the right hand side (passenger) theres about a 3mm gap about 3cm long if i remember rightly but its cracked around a join i'll try and get a real picture tomorrow

[dannyboy 0]

Using fibre glass to cover cracks in a sub-frame,what a :cowboy:

 

A large pothole or fatigue over time could have snapped either side of the subframe lauching you into oncoming traffic or wiping out a load of pedestrains.

Anyone person that does stuff like this should be dry bummed with a pineapple

[vw_john 10]

hahahahahaha! I could name and shame actually, i found his advertisement for the car and messaged him once already where he even then told me the car was in PERFECT working order. even when he was no longer selling it!

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

hmm, financially and logically welding is the best option. The :bonk::bonk::bonk: that had my car before me had used fiberglass filler to cover the cracks for the recent MOT.

That's incredible! The boy should be shot... I've sold a few hum-dingers in my time but I would never sell anything that wasn't safe! What a tool.... as dannyboy says, you could have ended up with lots more problems than just a broken car... :pale:

 

far worse on the right hand side (passenger) theres about a 3mm gap about 3cm long if i remember rightly but its cracked around a join i'll try and get a real picture tomorrow

 

if it's along a seam then that should be fixable... YOur not supposed to hot weld the subframes because it can warp the frame... giving it a funny shape. If it's possible get the garage to weld it in-situ with the engine hoisted. If it's bolted to the car with no weight on it, it will be as close to it's original shape as your going to get it. A wonky subframe will effect your handling if it's bad.

 

Get the garage to treat the subframe while they're down there too... the frame gets allot of stone chips and dirt from the road being where it is and you could do worse than giving it a coat of underseal :thumbleft:

[vw_john 10]

I was just thinking is the MOT station not kinda at fault for failing to notice filler on a main structural part of the car? i mean filler doesn't look like steel lol.

I think im going to go along the route of getting a new one (used), had a few people offer me some which is good.

[dannyboy 0]

Id think you'd be better off going with new/secondhand one cause it'll be nearly impossible to get the frame geometry right again and youll spend alot more money doing so than buying the frame outright.If it was me id know what id do,but thats just me.

 

as alex said,the sub-frame is pressed metal and not very thick so welding may very well warp it and leave you with not only bendy frame but one that still isnt structurely sound as i dont like the idea of welding load bearing metal as it can still fail.

 

if the MOT center cant see the crack they cant condem it,however repairs to chassis and crossmember should be closely examained.Did you bring it for an MOT or did he have it done?

[vw_john 10]

yeah, im just talking to a few people now seeing what prices people are offering them for.

id rather be satisfied that the car is in good working order, it was MOT'd about 2 months ago by the owner before the previous, (previous owner had it for less than a month, should have known something was wrong really) ill get a few photos up in a second.

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

I'm glad you're getting a new one... It will be best in the long run :thumbleft:

[vw_john 10]

OK, its a lot worse than I thought, I think? there's the original crack and a HUGE hole. all the fibreglass has mostly fallen out after the mechanic gave it a good poking yesterday but you can see a little hanging down in one picture.

[vw_john 10]

also would it make more sense to buy the wishbones and subframe and that whole mixup together as im being offered it as a one peice thing would that be easier, itws in good condition too

[dannyboy 0]

:shocked!: at pic number two

 

that is extremely dangerous and that shouldnt be on the road,Not to sound horrible dont drive the car til its repaired.

Report the guy who sold you the car and the test center who gave the MOT.

 

You will lose control of the car if it fails which by the look of the pics isnt far away.God forbid what happens then

[vw_john 10]

Just to bring this thread back. finally got hold of the MOT station that did the car. and they said if anythings been fiberglassed they cannot remove it, so if the fiberglass is covering all the dodgy areas, its still a pass...

seems rather unsafe.