The MK4 Golf/Bora Dash Conversion

[Towno14 10]

I think its a great job an you have great skills pal, but hooooowwwwww can u get bored of the orig rado dash? the old skool feel, the look. To me that's what owning a rado is all about. keep up good work though mate

[Bazmcc 0]

I don't think the look of the rado dash was the problem. The main problem is the crappy brittle plastic, the ever failing heater controlls, and the constant rattles and creaks of the dash just before another bit breaks. By the time this is done i'll have a nice high revving snarling 16v on throttle bodies to set in the bay to keep the old school feel.

[Supercharged 2]

Great work, not sure if you're aware but the MK4 fuel gauge works to the reverse of the resistance of the MK2 one...

 

My MK4 clocks have always been 'backwards' as it's still using a MK2 style pump and sender unit - it has a variable resister fitted in line somewhere so 'empty' is set at one end of the gauge. Be interested if you manage to find a workaround for this? I never got round to it but easiest option would be to reverse the full / empty decal on the clocks face if they come out easily?

[Bazmcc 0]

Yes i'm aware of that and pretty sure i've got it sorted. Not a workaround but just a straightforward 'fix'. I'll update with that info as soon as i've done some testing to confirm it works. Might even have time to look at that this week.

[Supercharged 2]

Cool, I tried to sort mine by fitting the MK4 PCB to the sender but it just wouldn't go... be interested to see what you come up with!

[Bazmcc 0]

Happy new year everyone. I'm starting to realise how long this conversion is taking but I think it'll be worth it. My engineer has been off for the xmas and new year hols so I haven't be able to get the gear shifter and handbrake finished yet but it'll not take too long to sort when he gets back on it.

 

Currently I still haven't been able to get the wiring all sussed out because I've been working on loads of other stuff in the mean time. The airbox ducting adapter is almost finished. A couple of coats of paint and it'll be done. I need to shorten a couple of bits of the wiring loom just to tidy it up a bit as they are very long.

But other than that, things are moving slow, but still in the right direction. The reason I've been dragging my heels is that i'll basically be trying to eliminate the rado original fuse box as much as I can. So the wiring diagrams keep getting bigger. Stay tuned. I'll update soon. I'll be using MK4 10 pin headlight connectors to join the looms together.

[Bazmcc 0]

Tubes for the handbrake cables. I'll show these fitted as soon as I get a chance to put them in.

 

[Bazmcc 0]

Tubes fitted.

[Bazmcc 0]

Was working on wiring for a customer today so didn't get as much done as I'd like. Called up with the engineer and he gave me the shifter and a piece of flat steel for test fitting.

 

So, Corrado shifter rod and bracket, MK4 plastic and spring, Corrado clip, Flat Steel, and MK4 shifter rod top half.

 

This is just a test piece. The real one will have a thicker piece of plate in the middle. This one is about 5mm. We'll be going for about 8mm plate for the final version.

 

We machined the top half off the rado shifter, fitted the MK4 plastic bracket in the middle and as it was shorter we cut the groove for the clip about 12mm (I think) further down the shaft. Then we refitted the spring and took a step off the top of the shaft to fit the flat plate onto. The narrowed part is 9mm.

 

Snug fit.

 

And the finished thing will be something similar to this but we'll confirm how far back the step is when it's test fitted. I'm not sure if it'll go straight up or if it'll be angled as shown. This depends on clearance from the radio cage.

[Emkayvr6 0]

Awesome work and thanks for the detailed thread. some interesting reading.

[SKURSH 10]

Just started mine.

Got the rebar fitted but I don't know where to mount it.

 

Where and how did you mount your rebar?

[Bazmcc 0]

Just started mine.

Got the rebar fitted but I don't know where to mount it.

 

Where and how did you mount your rebar?

 

Every cut, drill, grind and bolt is in this thread. Pages 2-5 is what you need to read through.

[VR6 Lee 0]

This is gonna look so good when finished

[Bazmcc 0]

OK so got back to a bit of work on this last night.

 

First thing I needed to do was extend a couple of wires for the lights from behind the dash so I could work on them. I also shortened the wiring to the radio, diagnostics socket, glovebox light, and center console fuel flap switch. I wanted to get all this done before putting the dash back in for testing the shifter box and mechanism.

 

Here's another little thing I noticed and needed to be corrected. As the groove for the spring had been recut 12mm down and I'm using the MK4 plastic pivot in the middle I had to recut the groove a bit longer so I could press the shifter down to get into reverse. I extended the groove from 23mm up to around 33mm up towards the top.

 

Then put it all back together to get it into the car to see how it fitted.

 

It now has a decent margin of clearance but i'm concerned about the center console clearance around the gaitor when it's in 2nd, and 4th gears so i'm going to put two 45 degree bends in the flat steel so it'll step up and back higher and towards the back. That means the back of the flat steel won't be as close to the console or end of the handbrake.

 

I also decided to mock up the doorcards again to check for clearance. I had to trim a little out of them but they should fit fine. I'll be making a fibreglass flat panel for the part I've cut away that should fit on the door and be covered by the dash. I'll retrim it in the same material as the rest of the doorcard when I get round to it.

[Critical_Mass 10]

Cannot wait to see this finished. Keep up the good work Bazz. Im intrigued as to how the gear shift will look.

[Bazmcc 0]

In theory it should look quite like a standard MK4 one as it'll be covered by the gaitor. The hardest part is getting the main radio cage fitted in well with the center console trim that fits over the tunnel.

 

Hopefully I'll get a gaitor soon if I remember and get it test fitted. Now I know what needs to be done I should be able to finish it fairly easily.

[Bazmcc 0]

Flat piece of steel is with the engineer now to get two 45 degree bends put in it. Next up is the test fit of that again and we've worked a solution to the bottom shaft to make it modular in case I ever need to remove it.

I also have more or less sussed out the wiper loom swap. I'll post that up after I double check the wiring in the 2 relays.

[mercedeslimos 10]

Barry what a fantastic help thread! This is really making me happy in my decision to fit a Mk4 dash to my MK2 when it gets built back up (hint: all Mk4 wiring, engine and gearbox, steering column and all electrics:smug:)

 

Subscribed anyway! I wonder is it much different in a MK2? I plan on using the aircon climatronic and all the little bits and bobs, and try and mount everything where it would be in a MK4, but in a slightly smaller shell.

 

In Cork myself, going to be on the lookout for a potential donor car after my exams in June, then the fun will begin. Hopefully at that point my car will be undersealed and the bay finished smoothed, ready for all the stuff to be bolted in.

 

Sam

[Bazmcc 0]

You'll actually find the MK2 a bigger task mechanically. To put it simply, the MK4 dash doesn't fit in a mk2. By that I mean that the car is actually narrower and shorter at the front end of the cabin so you'll need to butcher a bit off the front and off the sides of the dash to get it to fit. The other alternative is to cut down the middle somewhere and remove a couple of inches and piece it back together. It has been done before a couple of times on mk2s and there are build threads on it but it does take a fair bit of work. I know it might be a bit of a long shot but your best bet would probably be to take a MK1 golf citi from south africa as a donor car as it uses the polo/fabia 1 style dash which might fit easier.

 

As you're using a mk4 engine the wiring will be a lot easier as you only really need to wire up the wipers and lighting looms. Remember if you're fitting the climatronic that the fan controller from a mk4 will be needed and the version of the climatronic will depends on the age of the car.

 

Hope this thread helps you when the time comes.

[mercedeslimos 10]

You'll actually find the MK2 a bigger task mechanically. To put it simply, the MK4 dash doesn't fit in a mk2. By that I mean that the car is actually narrower and shorter at the front end of the cabin so you'll need to butcher a bit off the front and off the sides of the dash to get it to fit. The other alternative is to cut down the middle somewhere and remove a couple of inches and piece it back together. It has been done before a couple of times on mk2s and there are build threads on it but it does take a fair bit of work. I know it might be a bit of a long shot but your best bet would probably be to take a MK1 golf citi from south africa as a donor car as it uses the polo/fabia 1 style dash which might fit easier.

 

As you're using a mk4 engine the wiring will be a lot easier as you only really need to wire up the wipers and lighting looms. Remember if you're fitting the climatronic that the fan controller from a mk4 will be needed and the version of the climatronic will depends on the age of the car.

 

Hope this thread helps you when the time comes.

 

Brill cheers for the info. I'm gonna do the same craic as you and cut down the doorcards, and take some off the sides of the dash to fit. I have looked at a few and seen where to make cuts, trying to keep the centre of the dash standard as I want all to look stock. I hate the fabia/polo style dash they were the main reason i discounted the donor cars, same applies for leon/toledo, VW all the way!

 

I will use the MK4 crossmember and work from there, using maybe an 03 up mk4 donor (gonna build the shell up into a 90bhp tdi for my mam)

 

I want the clima anyway, i plan on using every possible part from the "good" mk4 donor, then buying one without a book to take anything else I need.

 

As you said, just stick in and extend/shorten the mk4 loom to suit, loving the nylon braiding great idea to clean up the look. how does it do for protection?

 

Sam

[Bazmcc 0]

For your donor you can use any one really, even some of the earlier ones. Just check out what wiring it has before you start. PD engines are from 2000 up. 00/01 is pd115 and from then on is pd100, 130, 150. Far tidier engine than a 90.

The braiding is extremely time consuming. But it's hard as nails. Takes some effort even to cut it with my wire cutters.

[mercedeslimos 10]

For your donor you can use any one really, even some of the earlier ones. Just check out what wiring it has before you start. PD engines are from 2000 up. 00/01 is pd115 and from then on is pd100, 130, 150. Far tidier engine than a 90.

The braiding is extremely time consuming. But it's hard as nails. Takes some effort even to cut it with my wire cutters.

 

I decided a while ago to use a clean 130 or 150, and would be willing to pay a bit more for one that's been looked after, as I plan on using the shell and the rest of the running gear.

 

I was offered a cheap 115 from a mate but had starship mileage (220k+), on an 00 plate. Ideally a 150 as the VB turbo outlet is suited better than the VA 130 outlet, the 150 doesn't foul the rear mount where as the 130 does. Just means less initial work getting the engine into the bay as i am using mk3 hydro mounts rather than MK4 chassis leg mounted ones. maybe in the future when my welding skills have improved from non-existent!

 

It looks nice, and might be a worthwhile addition once I have the wiring the way I want it. I figured getting an 03/04 Bora or Highline TDI, I get all the bits I want (Climatronic, ESP, heated seats and traction control - although lots of things can be retrofitted it is easier to start with a donor which has these - may cost more initially but work out with less work and less money buying extra parts in the long run)

[Bazmcc 0]

The vb and va turbo outlet pipes are identical by the way. Same engine part for part in the 130 and 150. Only difference is the head bolts. If you need any more info on tdis let me know. Lets try and keep this to pms though so the threaad stays on track.

[mercedeslimos 10]

The vb and va turbo outlet pipes are identical by the way. Same engine part for part in the 130 and 150. Only difference is the head bolts. If you need any more info on tdis let me know. Lets try and keep this to pms though so the threaad stays on track.

 

Ah then top mount it is! Good man thanks for that! Apologies for spamming your thread!

[Bazmcc 0]

Bloody hell, it's like waking up after being in a coma. Everything is bright and shiny. FEBRUARY..... what the hell happened since then, where have I been?

 

OK Quick update after I get my bearings.

Moved house (it's ok, i'm now in the house where my garage is.)

Rebuilt a garage floor that must be getting on for 50 - 60 years old. It's not solid as a rock.

Still trying to tidy up the garage after the rebuild.

Bought a bargain low miler MK2 Golf GTI (too good to pass up). Need to get it running and moved.

Been battling with the Fabia to try and keep the damn thing up to standard, new MOT last week.... yay.

Been on olidays to Wales and Chesire for C4R FEST.... brilliant.

Been pottering about with about 2 dozen different small projects here and there including making shelving for the garage after it's clean up.

Bought and broke a MK4 anniversary golf - nearly all gone. Anyone need a 180bhp (+ remap) 1.8T golf engine for a conversion?

Got the GFs Polo remapped and fitted a flip key with oem remote locking. Got new seats for it from a TT but she doesn't know that yet. Getting brackets made later.

And now.... well, back to work isn't it.

 

Here we go again.

Update for the car itself.

Got myself some Schroth ASM harnesses. I'll post pics of them maybe later if I get a chance. Looks like i'll be going for the rear seat delete.

Everything is powdercoated for under the front end. I need to go and get some new bolts for it all and start getting it cleaned up ready for fitting.

Wiring - the never ending story. I'll need to really get my head down and get that finished.

 

So don't let me run off again, it's time I kept this project moving.